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Discussion Starter #1
Since it will not quit raining here, I was forced to do a few modifications instead of ride.

I was under the tank and in the airbox for a test mod. :wink: (coming soon) and snapped a couple of pics for a short visual "How to" (assuming you can lift your tank and remove the airbox cover on your own).

The first pic. is the original setup with the Air Switching Valve shown with a Red X.

The Red arrows are the hoses that connect the stock plates to the valve.

The Yellow arrow points out the two wire plug that will need to be undone.

The Red Circle is the vacuum line coming from the airbox that will need to be capped or plugged. This is where the Switching Valve pulls air from to be sent through the exhaust to help burn any unburnt fumes for emissions.



Second pic. is showing the hoses removed, airbox capped, and the 2 wire connector jumped (Thanks MagicMavis:wink:) to avoid getting an FI light fault. The Air Switching Valve is completely loose and can be removed.



Third pic. shows the modification complete (except for securing the jumper wire).

The hose connecting the stock plates is part of the original vacuum line that was connected to the airbox. Cut to length and secured with 5/8" hose clamps.

The airbox is capped using a plug I had laying around and some high temp. silicone to hold it in place. (I have since removed this cap and used a 5/8" cap and hose clamp)



Maybe this will help someone.:eek:ccasion1
 

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Fuggit - just put a marble in the vac hose that connects from the airbox to the AIS. I too lazy to do all that work.
Great write up though :)
You're right this rain is wearing me out - had hail this morning leaving home.
 

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Nice - a cheaper alternative to the Graves block off plates. I discovered the simplicity of the system only AFTER purchasing the plates, so I threw'em on anyways. Points for being clever.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Nice - a cheaper alternative to the Graves block off plates. I discovered the simplicity of the system only AFTER purchasing the plates, so I threw'em on anyways. Points for being clever.

I can't take credit for this one. Its just easier to do a picture How To, than
explain this mod. over and over.


Thanks for the MAP Recongnition in the sig to You and Morefire. :eek:ccasion1 I hope that your bikes run like mine.:wink:
 

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I never got a FI light when disconnecting mine (plug is just hanging there taped up), but I also have the kawi race ecm. Just curious if everyone with stock ecm's get the FI light?
 

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Fuggit - just put a marble in the vac hose that connects from the airbox to the AIS. I too lazy to do all that work.
Great write up though :)
You're right this rain is wearing me out - had hail this morning leaving home.
I guess that works too. So basically, instead of buying the block off plates, I can stick a marble or something similar in the hose that connects to the top left side of my throttle bodies on the Gen1?

 

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Yes. That will net the same results, minus the small weight savings and cleaning up that area.
Thanks for the quick reply, it makes sense. I ain't worried about the weight savings, I'm already about 150 wet so I'm already one step ahead than most.
 

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Why cant I get to that hose under the aibox!!!!!!! Help!! I can pull my airbox up, but not out of the way!!!
 

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turn the airbox like 90 degrees and shimmy that sucker out.....should help if it's anything like the 1st gen airbox removal
 

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Discussion Starter #18
turn the airbox like 90 degrees and shimmy that sucker out.....should help if it's anything like the 1st gen airbox removal
On the 3rd gens you turn the airbox about 45 degrees to get it out. I go CCW, not sure if that matters. Probably not.

Of course you would have to have the clamps for the inlet boots loose, or it will not come off.

Doesn't matter for this mod. The lower half of the airbox stays in place. Just take the Phillips head screws out and pull the top off.

Good time to clean your air filter.
 

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disconnected and blocked off hose, but now wont start and getting F1, any suggestions?
 
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