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Discussion Starter #1
How do I adjust the rear shock preload. Service Manual doesn't say (at least not that i found).

I see what appears to be 2 "nuts" on the threads at the bottom of the shock (closest to tire). I am assuming the bottom nut (the thick one), is the tightener, and the thinner one on top is what determines how much preload is applied. I don't know.

If what I said is true, which way do I turn them. I assume it is lefty loosy, righty tighty. So do I turn the bottom nut counter clockwise to loosen it, and then turn the top nut clockwise to increase preload, then turn the bottom nut until it is snug?

Please help here... please... My bike rides literally like a boat through bumps.

Also what size spanner wrench do I need, or if I use a screwdriver how much risk is there to damaging the components? I really don't want to damage, or mare.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Sorry I can't edit.

Also want to know if I can adjust the rear shock with the bike on a stand, or do I have to strap up the rear by lets say passenger pegs to take weight off?

I really do not want to remove the shock.
 

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Forget doing it yourself. Find yourself a shop with some track experience and get the entire suspension set up for you. It'll cost you less than $50.

If you're set on doing it yourself, you can alter the preload with a screwdriver and mallet as long as you're careful. It will leave small marks on the collars but nothing that should really bother you.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Forget doing it yourself. Find yourself a shop with some track experience and get the entire suspension set up for you. It'll cost you less than $50.

If you're set on doing it yourself, you can alter the preload with a screwdriver and mallet as long as you're careful. It will leave small marks on the collars but nothing that should really bother you.
Yes, I prefer to not do it myself (both front and rear). The stock spring is not strong enough for my weight, and it is currently set at its lowest preload setting. I just want to get it near max preload before I decide to put 300 miles on my bike for a professional adjustment, or decide to respring the shock, or worse yet buy an entire new rear shock.

So that said, what direction do I bang on the collars if I am looking up at the shock from the rear tire (lefty loosy, righty tighty?), and am I correct about the purpose of the two collars?

I bought a shock spanner but it doesn't fit. One side is too small, and the other side is too big. I'd prefer to just buy the proper spanner, so what size do I need?
 

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I answered in your other thread about oil, not thinking. Im sure its more appropriate in this thread. My bad...

.....Here's the deal, i just did this a month ago or so and it may sound getto and i dont care one bit because i was careful with what i was doing and thought it out well. Got the idea from some guys on a zx6r forum a few years back and just never got around to trying it. Im sure the suspension elitists on the forum would have a coronary, i have a life vest and canoe for the river of tears :thefinger_red: Besides the rear end on my 636 was getting to be like riding on a cinder block and i dont have a grand to shell out for nice golden parts and dudes to do the work for me or even for new shock oil atm so... (i probably shouldnt even be allowed to ride!! :badteeth:).

I got a couple of giant rubber coated hooks like the kind you find at HD, Lowes, HF or wherever, the big 1/4" round mothers. Found a stud in the ceiling and marked it (after spending lots of time measuring), drilled and threaded in the hooks, leveled the hooks as well.
Took the plastics off the rear end and moved the bike under the hooks and put the bike on a rear stand. Ratchet straps. I took a 3ft piece of 2x4 and placed it up in the leveled hooks and went ahead and attached the ratchet straps just loose around the 2x4 and hooked up in a secure corner weld on either side of the subframe, moving the bike around until i was satisfied with the placement. You might have to just barely jack up the straps once or twice to see how it will act under tension and possibly move the bike centering it for better placement, im anal as fawk (i know, I KNOW!! lol :nerd:).
Once confident and with even tension on both straps just barely start with one or two clicks each side. I also positioned the bike such that the straps did not have a severe angle but angled such that it should not take much force to get the bike lifted, youll see (think triangle) - believe i angled towards the front for more leverage but again not much, but not straight up and down either, which would be fine im sure. Click one side, then the other. It only takes a couple clicks on each side to get the bike up off the rear stand about half an inch or less. I didnt mention i also have a front stand for extra stability but have heard of guys doing this and being fine w/out it.

Its scary for a second but the 2x4 helps distribute some of the load im thinking. I then took a punch and got the top ring started. Standing over the bike looking down at the seat, if i remember right i tapped the top ring to the right of the bike or in a counter clockwise direction to loosen while standing at the left side of the bike. You'll see easily which way it needs to go to loose/tighten.

Some will have you believe this is blasphemy, i really dont care, its how some of us have to get things done and as long as you're smart about it you'll be fine. I had a few beers during the process and had fun with it. Been too cold to ride/adjust yet though.

Party on Garth.


Edit - I hope LDH wets himself uncontrollably and has nightmares for weeks after reading this! ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I answered in your other thread about oil, not thinking. Im sure its more appropriate in this thread. My bad...

.....Here's the deal, i just did this a month ago or so and it may sound getto and i dont care one bit because i was careful with what i was doing and thought it out well. Got the idea from some guys on a zx6r forum a few years back and just never got around to trying it. Im sure the suspension elitists on the forum would have a coronary, i have a life vest and canoe for the river of tears :thefinger_red: Besides the rear end on my 636 was getting to be like riding on a cinder block and i dont have a grand to shell out for nice golden parts and dudes to do the work for me or even for new shock oil atm so... (i probably shouldnt even be allowed to ride!! :badteeth:).

I got a couple of giant rubber coated hooks like the kind you find at HD, Lowes, HF or wherever, the big 1/4" round mothers. Found a stud in the ceiling and marked it (after spending lots of time measuring), drilled and threaded in the hooks, leveled the hooks as well.
Took the plastics off the rear end and moved the bike under the hooks and put the bike on a rear stand. Ratchet straps. I took a 3ft piece of 2x4 and placed it up in the leveled hooks and went ahead and attached the ratchet straps just loose around the 2x4 and hooked up in a secure corner weld on either side of the subframe, moving the bike around until i was satisfied with the placement. You might have to just barely jack up the straps once or twice to see how it will act under tension and possibly move the bike centering it for better placement, im anal as fawk (i know, I KNOW!! lol :nerd:).
Once confident and with even tension on both straps just barely start with one or two clicks each side. I also positioned the bike such that the straps did not have a severe angle but angled such that it should not take much force to get the bike lifted, youll see (think triangle) - believe i angled towards the front for more leverage but again not much, but not straight up and down either, which would be fine im sure. Click one side, then the other. It only takes a couple clicks on each side to get the bike up off the rear stand about half an inch or less. I didnt mention i also have a front stand for extra stability but have heard of guys doing this and being fine w/out it.

Its scary for a second but the 2x4 helps distribute some of the load im thinking. I then took a punch and got the top ring started. Standing over the bike looking down at the seat, if i remember right i tapped the top ring to the right of the bike or in a counter clockwise direction to loosen while standing at the left side of the bike. You'll see easily which way it needs to go to loose/tighten.

Some will have you believe this is blasphemy, i really dont care, its how some of us have to get things done and as long as you're smart about it you'll be fine. I had a few beers during the process and had fun with it. Been too cold to ride/adjust yet though.

Party on Garth.


Edit - I hope LDH wets himself uncontrollably and has nightmares for weeks after reading this! ;)
Hey I really thank you for the time you took to give a thoughtful response.

So basically YES, I should take the weight off the rear shock, and using ratchet straps is a way to go. What I was going to do is this.

1) Position rear of bike inside a weight lifting Squat rack (or technically it's a power rack)
2) Get bike on rear stand
3) ZIP TIE front brake lever so the front wheel doesn't move
3) Secure ratchet straps to passenger foot pegs and power rack
4) With bike still on rear stand, I would begin clicking the straps little by little until hopefully before I see the rear lift from the stand. I'm willing to leave some tension before I try banging on the collars.

So my next question for you is (and i know this question is stupid as all hell, and I should be shamed from ever riding a motorcycle again, but... here it goes.) If I stand over my bike, facing the rear and looking down at the shock, the locking and adjustments rings are at the bottom of the shock (closest to tire). Is this the proper orientation for lefty loosey, rightey tightey? Or should I be standing over my bike facing the front and looking down.

See what i'm saying, which side of the collars is lefty loosey, the side that faces the front of the bike, or the side that faces the rear of the bike?

If I do successfully remove weight from the rear shock, how easy should it be to punch the locking collar loose, or should I even mess with that since I am trying to increase pre-load? Should I just leave the locking collar, and work on the adjustment collar. Once the adjustment collar is set to where I want, then tighten the locking collar?



I'm sorry for sounding like an idiot, because well I kinda am I guess. Why in the hell don't they give you instructions on how to do this in either the owners manual or the service manual.
 

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With a big flat head screw driver you lose the top ring.
then with a C spanner you lose or tighten the lower one, until desired sag is attained...
maybe you have to take out the foot pegs holders...

no big science here...
 

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Discussion Starter #10
With a big flat head screw driver you lose the top ring.
then with a C spanner you lose or tighten the lower one, until desired sag is attained...
maybe you have to take out the foot pegs holders...

no big science here...
Well, not sure that it is possible to loosen the top ring when it is butted up against the bottom ring. This is a GEN 5 rear shock we are talking about. Both rings are located at the bottom of the shock, with the locking ring closest to tire, then the adjustment ring, and then the spring.

So if possible i'm just looking for the answer of which direction do i turn the locking ring. You can't just tell me left or counterclockwise because that is two different directions depending on which way you are looking at the ring.
 

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Its easy enough to just get in there and find out, no? Like mpp said, it aint rocket science. It should be a learning experience so just get in there and do some trial and error, its not like you'll break something just adjusting the pre-load, or id hope not anyway. If i tell you what direction, itll just confuse you further. And yes, if you are increasing pre-load you'd probably just tighten the collar and then lock the top collar down once yer done. Just depends on which direction you're going. I've laid it all out for ya. Something still tells me yer gonna pull a squat rack down on top of you though lol. :lol: :helmet:
 

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Loosen the rings from one another. Then tighten the ring that adjoins/touches the spring so it compresses the spring further. Many times, turning the spring will move the ring. You are welcome.
 

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You should set race sag(rider on bike in neutral position) at 30 mm +- for street riding. Find a YouTube video for info on setting race sag.
 

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To answer your question about which way to turn the rings, look at the threads and which way they disappear into the locking rings. This tells you how to turn it no matter which way you are looking at them.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
To answer your question about which way to turn the rings, look at the threads and which way they disappear into the locking rings. This tells you how to turn it no matter which way you are looking at them.
Bravo! Well said, and in fact I glanced at the threads this morning for that very reason. I've done some work to my bike and other bikes in the past (I swear, lol). Changing tires, chains, sprockets, air filters, block off plates, fuel pumps, even a little electrical work. Nothing to big, but I know what damage I am capable of, and with this being a new bike, I just wanted to be absolutely certain I knew what I was in for and doing BEFORE i start doing it. :)

Thanks again.
 
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