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106 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
The reasons I did the dual bi-xenon setup are:
1. Once you’ve driven with xenon projectors, there’s nothing like it and I wont settle for anything less.
2. The bi-xenon’s allow for instant high beams. With a retro setup in the stock projectors you have to wait for the hi beam bulb to warm up and reach operating temp. Yeah... its not that long of a wait, but when you’re cruising down a dark road, that wait seems like an eternity when your in deer country.
3. With both bi-xenon lights operating, you use 70 watts of power compared to the 120 watts from the stock system.
4. Two lights are better (looking also) than one.

So.......Here’s my HOW-TO for the 2006 Dual HID Bi-Xenon install. You can do it anyway you want, but this is how I did it.

First we have the parts list:

1 Stock headlight housing ($350). I purchased a new one to avoid down time with the bike.
2 MB E55 Bi-Xenon Projectors. Make sure they have the pigtails for the solenoids.
2 Hella ballast with built-in igniters for D2S bulbs.
2 Phillips D2S Bulbs, 4300K.
1 Hella 30 amp relay.
1 30 amp mini fuse holder with fuse.
1 H9 and H11 Bulb. (You’ll cannibalize these to wire into the stock plugs).
The wire to connect all the parts together. I used a Hella wiring kit and then cut it down for my application. It includes the relay and the wiring that are all ready connected together.

OK, lets get started. NOTE: Cleanliness counts during the refit.

Get the headlight housing out of the bike and remove the bulbs and rubber grommets at the rear of the housing. If you bought a new housing then the lights and rubber pieces do not come with it.

Pre-heat the oven to 175 degrees. Once heated, put the housing in for 10 minutes. Don’t get distracted and keep an eye on the heating process. You may have to do this a few times to get both lens covers off. This makes the adhesive holding the lens covers very pliable. You might want to use gloves for this next procedure. Remove the housing after 10 minutes and with a blade screwdriver carefully pry the housing and lens covers apart. NOTE: Do not break off any of the small plastic tabs around the housing lens. Once it starts you can pretty much use your hands to finish. Be careful with the adhesive. It’s very sticky and will get all over everything if you get sloppy. Once the covers are off, let the pieces cool down. This will cause the adhesive to somewhat solidify. Do not scrape out the adhesive as it will be used to put the housings together later. (Others have used a heat gun, if you do, be extremely careful that you don’t melt or distort the plastic housing and housing lens).

Plastic pieces.JPG
Remove the stock projectors from the housing and set aside. You will need 2 of the plastic pieces from each light.

Projector front 1.JPG Trimmed.JPG
The MB E55 projectors come with a little too much metal that you will have to trim off. A dremel tool with a reinforced cutoff wheel works great for this. If you use the Hella ballast with the internal igniters you can trim off all metal brackets around where the bulb goes in. It will give you more room for aiming adjustment in the rear of the housing.


106 Posts
Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
06 Dual Bi-Xenon Headlights PG2


I had to trim off some of the plastic on the solenoid connector and bend the leads to make the projector on the low beam side fit. So I trimmed both projectors just to be sure. Take your time doing this as the plastic on used projectors have become very brittle from the heat during use. I trimmed mine by using a small butane torch and xacto knife and carefully melted the plastic and scraped it off a little at a time. You’ll find out that once the flame is removed, the plastic hardens very fast, so you’ll have to work quickly yet diligently. If you don’t want to hack up you solenoid plug, you could heat the housing with a heat gun where the plug will be, then simply press it out to create a dimple and room for the plug. Hold it until the plastic cools. Beware that the dimple that you create my affect how the plastic fairing piece fits on the bottom of the headlight housing.

Projector rear.JPG
Now its time to make the brackets that will hold the projectors in the housing. I used sheet metal to make mine because it was easier to work with. Just make sure that whatever you use will not flex or bend too easily. Once you have one side done and it fits, make an exact copy of the brackets for the other side. I used pop rivets to fasten the brackets to the projector and then flattened them with a few taps of a hammer to lock things down. I’m sure you noticed that I didn’t use a plastic piece on the lower inside bracket. This is because I didn’t have enough room for the plastic piece. Instead I drilled a hole smaller than the screw and let the screw thread the hole. This screw will be use only for the initial adjustment. The two knobs will be your adjusters. Now depending on the metal thickness you use, the plastic pieces may wiggle ever so slightly in the brackets. I used JB weld to lock them in place.

Almost done with the housing. You should have gotten the solenoid plug and wires with your projector. Now is the time to connect it to the solenoid. To keep mine from coming apart, I used epoxy to hold it in place (forever). Solder a few feet of wire to the solenoid wires (you can cut them to the exact length later). Now is a good time to clean up the projector and main housing. Make sure you do a good job here. Use a flashlight to check your work. Any fingerprints, smuggest, or lint will show up later after the housing is back together. Install the projectors into the housing and let the solenoid wires hang out the rear.

Black trim.JPG
The next step is purely optional but highly recommended. The opening of the black trim inside the lens housing is too small for the projector lens. The opening in stock trim is roughly 2 1/2", the new projector lens is 3". Now, if you want to remove this piece and leave it out, you can, but, you'll be able to see the entire projector from the front looking inside the housing. I trimmed mine to where the projector lens is the only thing you see (stock looking). I used a dremel tool and a cutoff wheel and trimmed about 1/2" from the rim of the black trim. You may have to trim more or less to get it right. Once again....take your time, this will be a finished piece.

Now clean up the lens housing. Be careful you don’t scratch the inside of the clear plastic. Install the black trim. Once again making sure everything is clean and as lint free as possible.

Almost finished.JPG
Time to heat up that oven again. Preheat to 175. The wires that are hanging out the rear will be ok for this procedure, just wrap them around the center of the housing to get them out of the way for now. Put the housing in the oven for 10 mins. Note: Do not put the lens housings in the oven. Remove the housing from the oven and put your lens housings in place ensuring you press them firmly together. Oh, those tabs I told you NOT to break off will be used now to hold the pieces together. Set the housing aside to let the adhesive cool. Keep an eye on it during the cooling process so the lens housings do not separate from the main housing.


106 Posts
Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
06 Dual Bi-Xenon Headlights PG3


Ballasts.JPG Ballast mount.JPG
After finishing up the projector install. The hardest part now was to find a place to mount the 2 ballasts that will power the bulbs. There isn't much room under that plastic. But I found a spot just above the front turn signals on the middle fairing. I used industrial strength self stick velcro to mount the ballasts. When you use self stick velcro, make sure you clean the surfaces with alcohol for a good stick. Basically the ballast will stay there for the life of the bike. When you have to remove the fairings, simply unplug the bulb socket and the power plug. The ballast will come off with the fairing.

Wiring Diagram.JPG
Wiring is pretty straight forward. Black/Yellow is ground at the plugs. Made use of the old H9 and H11 bulbs. I used a dremel tool to remove the glass, mounting rings, trimmed off excess plastic and then gutted them to make a plug to fit the stock wiring. The high beam plug is wired directly to the solenoids in the projectors.

Installed rear.JPG
As you can see, a nice clean set up. To cover the rear of the housing, I found (purely by accident) an outboard motor flush kit with rubber suction cups (approx 3 1/2" dia). I took the rubber cups and cut a hole to fit the HID plug tight. Then trimmed the excess off the edge of the cups to seal around the rear of the housing.

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