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Discussion Starter #1
Ok guys i know we all have to have the latest and greatest in parts in Power and Suspenions so here is my question for any trackday riders.

Right now i have my 2004 ZX10R with a massive inventory of go fast goodies as well as suspension and braking componants to keep her on track, the question i have more than anything is HOW THE FUCK DO YOU KEEP THE FRONT END DOWN?
I have -1/+1 Gearing and find it to be more suitable for street but on track and using more throttle i feel it is going to be a case of to much gearing with the power the bike is using, unless you prefer to use very partial throttle openings.
I am comparing this to a 1098 Ducati with some work done so Work with me.

On the street yesterday i hit some twisty roads and found that it was more than happy to get the front lifted anytime over 5,000Rpm in 1st and even on the 2nd gear up shift and that is as far i was getting on the roads, i was not even 65% throttle open i am sure.
so how is this going to translate to putting the power down and not wasting it?

where on the 1098 mid 2nd gear is pin the throttle and just go with tons of drive the 10r is needing only partial openings, but on any straight i am sure the 10r will run down the 1098 with some room.
Hopefully someone can give me some help on this.
as it sits right now, here is the bikes info.

traxxion fork cartridge, ohlins damper, ohlins shock, attack triple clamps
carrozzeria wheels, -1/+1 gearing 520, Ti-Force FS with custom tune, tre mod and more...415lbs fully fueled. Brembo HP calipers & 19x18 master
 

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not sure what the sprokets #'s are on the 05 but Gearing is one of the things Kawi corrected/ changed with the 06-7

I find the stock 06 gearing to be perfect for the track, you seem to have gone 2 teeth down from 05 so I am not surprised that you can't keep her down.
 

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Track only here with my '05 .

I have: -1 +2 it does power wheelie on occasion depending on the track.

:cool:
 

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shift your weight more forward, adjust the rear ride height......aint much else you can do, thats what you get with 170+hp :)
 

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Full time Track Addict here. -1 +2. Not a problem. In fact you should try to gear ur bike more, to keep the RPM in the higher spectrum. I am guessing your are still low in the RPM when you crack throttle open. So u hit that monster surge at 8,000 rpm or so. For the sake's of comparison. My bike will pick it nose up no problem if aggressive on throttle say coming out of corners. But once throttle pinned to the stop in a full bore acceleration changing gears at redline. The bike will pick it nose up, like a jump on gearchanges but nothing to worry about. other thing to do is get over the front which is what ur suppose to do when accelerating hard. I am so far forward I sometime smack my visor on the windshield.
 

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:+1:

I've only got -1 on the front, and i'm a heavy guy (195lbs) and i need to pull all my weight to the front if i wanna keep the front down, and even so its not an easy task cracking it open in 1st.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
yeah maybe with some more street and soon to be tracktime i will get a better feel on riding this bike.
But the whole floating the wheel isnt an issue really just something i am wondering about especially as laying on the power out of turns, Seems ALOT more throttle control will be needed as to where with the 1098 you just open up the gas and go out of the turns with loads of acceleration...
 

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1 question how did you get the bike so light?? i mean i know the gen 1 is light but thats only 5-6lbs more than my old 636 and that was a gen 1 also.
 

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Something else you can add to your riding technique is draggin the rear brake on accel which will keep the nose down.

BD
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks BD will keep that in mind when i am working things out with the bike, i am going to bring a standard front sprocket with to the track just in case i find it is more suitable for me and my riding.

As for the weight issue, full ti exhaust and wheels are the main things...but there is some more little things that all add up as well.
Next round will be race fiberglass or CF with half a headlight, custom tail and TS's Not to mention i was going to go with an aluminum tank as well...more than 6lbs lighter than stock.
 

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Something else you can add to your riding technique is draggin the rear brake on accel which will keep the nose down.

BD
:+2:
and an another thing on racetrack but maybe you won't like it!
1. your rear shock absorber is dead and does not assist you anymore.
2. You re big guy and your weight is quite high
3. your position on the bike is unapropriate, mean your ass is too much placed at the rear.
4.(sorry for that) maybe You are too slow in the turns... you re too low in RPM when you turn, then you turn the throttle on the max torque and bike is systematically going up. Solution passing the same turns with a gear more.. if you used to pass in 1ST gear take it then in second. if it is not cool enough shorten the demultiplication, mean put one or two teeth down at the sproket...

:eek:ccasion1
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Hey Erikspeed as for the bike handling and set-up i do find that it is more than up to the task with its set-up.

1. Ohlins shocked matched to my weight and working like a champ
2. i am a big guy 108Kgs and my weight is high and over the front (helping the front stay down), shit if the tank had a hole in it my cock would be inside it.
3. as for speed i dont think that is an issue (we all can improve me included) but i think it is just getting used to the bike and adjusting my riding style on it, compared to my 636 and 1098.

Read an article about a racer that was used to riding 600's and figured he could be alot faster on a liter bike, but ended up being slower until he got used to the bike after several track days.

will be nice to see on the track how it compares with my other rides.
 

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Hey Erikspeed as for the bike handling and set-up i do find that it is more than up to the task with its set-up.

1. Ohlins shocked matched to my weight and working like a champ
2. i am a big guy 108Kgs and my weight is high and over the front (helping the front stay down), shit if the tank had a hole in it my cock would be inside it.
3. as for speed i dont think that is an issue (we all can improve me included) but i think it is just getting used to the bike and adjusting my riding style on it, compared to my 636 and 1098.

Read an article about a racer that was used to riding 600's and figured he could be alot faster on a liter bike, but ended up being slower until he got used to the bike after several track days.

will be nice to see on the track how it compares with my other rides.
:badteeth: well ok doki :wink:
We have at least point 2 matching!
How do you know and even if it is an ohlins that your rear shock absorber is well settled? tell me just to know and what kind of spring (in kg resistance) did ohlins gave you? 9 kg spring? 10kgs spring it is written on it actually...
How is the wear of of your rear tyre after runs? scratched ? good shape, waves?
:beer::beer:
 

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Discussion Starter #14
not to come across as being a jack ass, but i have 3 other bikes i track and am pretty good with the set-up portion.
As for the shock being matched, i deal with one of the most knowledgeable people in the United States (Dan Kyle Racing) when it comes to Ohlins and he knows what works and weight springs for each person.
Kinda like my fork cartridges are set-up for me as well just like my other bikes.

the only real issue i have with the bike is that from what others said, when you hit that initial hit of power you get the rise of front "Depending on Throttle % Open"
So i think it is just getting more accustomed to the bike I4 and its power delivery.

but if you ask on tire wear from street use it is completely normal wear, no tearing or waves as you refer,,,,But i guarantee you once on the track it will have more indicators of where i am at with the settings. but the bike will be easy enough to dial in, as i have a personal friend who helps me on my bikes that is a AMA Crew Chief, and his rider won* the daytona 200 if that helps out.
 

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Hi guys, I race my 05 10r here in the not so sunny uk, i have WP rear shock with WP fork internals, i'm running 16/42 or 17 /42 gearing dry, deppending on circuits, and 17/39 wet. Std gearing is 17/39. The bike is 170 @ rear, thats before i fit the hawk bsb head! Bsb and wsbk bikes are putting out 200+ in race trim, most without traction control!
 

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Discussion Starter #16
damn man that is impressive for sure...

Depending on how i get along with the bike on my 1st trackday with it i will see about doing some AMA SUPERBIKE work done....180 RWHP is damn fast for any bike
 

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not to come across as being a jack ass, but i have 3 other bikes i track and am pretty good with the set-up portion.
As for the shock being matched, i deal with one of the most knowledgeable people in the United States (Dan Kyle Racing) when it comes to Ohlins and he knows what works and weight springs for each person.
Kinda like my fork cartridges are set-up for me as well just like my other bikes.

the only real issue i have with the bike is that from what others said, when you hit that initial hit of power you get the rise of front "Depending on Throttle % Open"
So i think it is just getting more accustomed to the bike I4 and its power delivery.

but if you ask on tire wear from street use it is completely normal wear, no tearing or waves as you refer,,,,But i guarantee you once on the track it will have more indicators of where i am at with the settings. but the bike will be easy enough to dial in, as i have a personal friend who helps me on my bikes that is a AMA Crew Chief, and his rider won* the daytona 200 if that helps out.
Ok I understand! so nothing more to say on my side. You know what you re talking about :wink:
:eek:ccasion1
 
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