Kawasaki ZX-10R Forum banner
1 - 12 of 12 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
317 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My gen4 track bike just chewed up and spit out another regulator rectifier. This is the second one in less than 500 miles. I have it relocated to the side above the sprocket with a bracket from MSS, we found out the first one went when we tried restarting the bike on the dyno when it was getting mapped and the battery was dead. After the first one went I heeded dricked's advice and applied some DEI reflect-a-gold heat shield tape to the back and added some rubber insulation to the mounting points to prevent vibration. At my last trackday in May during the last session the bike started sputtering and then completely died on me on the finish line straight at PBIR. Flipping the ignition switch on and off did absolutely nothing, the following weekend I diagnosed and replaced the burnt out 30amp main fuse and test started it, fired up fine and ran fine for 30 seconds and then I shut her down.

Fast forward to today, getting it prepped for next weekend and I do a test start to dial in the new APE CCT I installed, idles fine and then dies just like before after about 10 seconds, no warning signs just cuts out completely and has no electrical power. Check the main fuse and sure enough its popped again, replace it and try again, same result, fires up but pops it not long after.

I yanked the race harness off the bike and thoroughly inspected every centimeter of wiring and every connector, nothing out of the ordinary, I bought the harness and ECU second hand but it's still in pristine condition. There's no kinks or abrasion points anywhere that I can see. I then go to check the r/r readings against my known good one off of my street zx10 (gotta love having a spare bike to test parts out) and sure enough the readings are not in line with the good one. I plan on re-installing the race harness tomorrow and seeing if the r/r was the culprit.

But this got me thinking if I should start keeping a small stockpile of spare r/r's for this bike? Who else has had multiple failures?

I also came across a thread on here during my research discussing how certain Lithium batteries (including shorai)aren't compatible with our electrical systems? http://www.zx-10r.net/forum/f23/2012-zx10-blowing-ignition-fuses-237657.html

I run a shorai, maybe this is part of the problem as well.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
39 Posts
I am as not familiar with my zx10r so far as with my other bikes (an expert is bound to come along), but to me it sounds like there is another issue that it causing the reg to fail/main fuse to blow (like an unseen wiring short, or a generator failure), rather than just repeated faults with regs themselves.
My reg is oem, no faults (2014 bike), and I have a lithium battery.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
112 Posts
I had a V/R get fried on my pre-10r bike, a Ducati 1198s. The unit is about 2 inches above the front cylinder exhaust pipe and the local Duc dealer does exactly what you suggest. Unfortunately for me, this happened right after I put a Shorai into the bike, thus killing the poor Shorai as the duc spiked to an indicated 18.0v on the test ride with the replacement (and still bad) regulator.

I have not had the symptoms on my 10r...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
186 Posts
13' lithium battery with 11k miles and no problems with the OEM rectifier/regulator

Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk
 

·
REPOST Enforcement Mod
'16 ZX-10R KRT
Joined
·
15,735 Posts
I think the biggest issue would be cooling in that location (even though the Kawi racekit bracket is the same). If you're doing nothing but baking the rectifier behind the number 1 cylinder with little to no airflow because of your race bodywork, then that's going to be the number one thing that will kill it quickly.

First thing I'd do is relocate it away from that area and put it up away from the engine and into the ambient air stream more. More near the stock location somewhere.

2012, Shorai lithium with no failures. R/R is mounted in the stock location.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
903 Posts
I had my rectifier die on me while the bike on the dyno for about 5 hours. It died at the end of the dyno mapping process and my Shorai battery drained completely and the bike wouldn't budge. The bike had about 8k miles on the origial rectifier and Shorai battery. My rectifier is located above the sprocket where cooling wasn't the best and the fact that the bike wasn't actually moving (less air flow) probably didn't help. I replaced the rectifier and no problems since. No fuses blown. So I have two theories on that, according to LDH, it's most likely the Shorai battery as he's seen half a dozen rectifiers fail on bikes with Shorais. The other is lack of cooling to a non-moving bike. Rectifier gets very hot as it is and with no air moving past it, it may have failed from overheating. That said, I was told by very experienced folks that it's common for rectifiers to be stashed away with poor cooling conditions and run very hot with no issues. To be safe, I replaced my Shorai battery. LDH recommends SpeedCell brand. I couldn't find one at the time so I went with another recommended brand, Antigravity XPS-1 (also an Li battery). I am not at all sure whether it will solve the issue or not. I've also installed the oil catch tank kit, which moves the rectifier out more to help more air flow past it. Whatever the case may be, I think keeping a spare rectifier is good practice since it might save you track day or a dyno session.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,187 Posts
for some reason have seen a couple of dyno adicts gen4 here with same problem.... mine has 20K kms with no problem, oem everything... I just take a sh... before jumping on the bike, its same weight reduction as those expensive batteries.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,164 Posts
for some reason have seen a couple of dyno adicts gen4 here with same problem.... mine has 20K kms with no problem, oem everything... I just take a sh... before jumping on the bike, its same weight reduction as those expensive batteries.
When you change to the kit harness/ecu the R/R gets relocated.

Check to see what your charging voltage is when you replace the unit and are you replacing the batteries after each R/R swap? I know my bike charges at 14.9 so it's too high for any light weight battery that doesn't have an overcharge protection circuit. I now use an oem battery as it can handle the extra voltage.

Every race this year has been stinkin hot and I haven't had an issue since isolating it from heat and vibration. My main fuse never popped on me though, the battery just got REALLY hot and eventually swell and not start the bike.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
317 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
Looks like the replacement reg/rec fixed the fuse popping issue. Did some tests while I had it on there and all measurements were in line, battery doesn't go above [email protected], stator puts out [email protected], resistance looked good, this was all with the stock battery, ill try again tomorrow with the shorai and see if I get different results.
 
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
Top