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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My newer 10r has just about 8k on the clock. When I first got it at like 7200mi on the bike it was darn quiet. The previous owner would only put put around to and from work. That bike most likely never even saw 10k rpm its whole life. Now after I got ahold of her and have given her the proper pull her hair and spank her hard treatment. I can defiantly hear the cam chain after the 800mi of proper spanking. Its quite loud in the lower rpms 3-4.5k. On my GEN 3 I put on a manual cam chain adjuster and have never adjusted it after initial install(about 20k on same setting) been racing the dog shit out of the gen3 and its never gotten louder.

My question is...Is there an initial stretch for the cam chain and its pretty steady after etc? I'm thinking no one actually rode this bike and I was the first one to actually give her the beans for extended periods of time. I just don't ever remember a cam chain getting as audibly loose as mine potentially has in only 800mi, it has always been more progressive for past bikes(kawis) over a few k of riding. Curious if it might be a gen 5 thing or not. Any personal experience or feedback would be appreciated.


Thanks guys!
 

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The issue with 10R cam chains is getting worse, since G1 the same link size has never changed, only difference G4 stepped up the length of chain to compensate for the taller cam mounts. So you basically have a chain designed for 160hp sub 13.000 rpm on a 190 hp 14.500 rpm bike. You only gave the bike the spirit it inspires. For me I would check the wear on the chain & guides along with the lash. But would fit a new chain anyhow even if you switch to a manual adjuster.
 

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The other issue that came along with the G4 is the much larger and more aggressive cam profiles that heap loads more stress on the chain.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Greatly appreciate you're input! Was trying to steer clear of cracking the valve cover until it was valve time in a few more K but I guess its better safe than sorry. It does sound like its lashing quite a bit in there and I would prefer to obviously reduce the ware on all surrounding guides etc.
 

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Did you try helping the stock adjuster to find the next tighter pawl? I recall other threads on this subject report that when it's near the next pawl, it can get stuck and have sufficient lash to noticeably increase noise.
cam chain loose
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I haven't done anything to the bike since purchase other than get it a proper tune. Interesting note on the pawl theory though. If I'm going to loosen anything in regards to the CC I will just be replacing the unit with a manual at the same time.
 

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Gen4 and Gen5 is normally very loud and noisy engines, before you do anything compare it with other Gen4-5 and/or also you could tape it and put the video here. With 8000 miles, I think its most likely just fine as is and its just you getting used to this engine.
 

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I haven't done anything to the bike since purchase other than get it a proper tune. Interesting note on the pawl theory though. If I'm going to loosen anything in regards to the CC I will just be replacing the unit with a manual at the same time.
If you want to try 2Wheelmikes suggestion the easiest fastest and safest way to do that is with a cold engine. in your garage with minimal background noise back one of the retaining screws out a few mm then slow and quietly back out the other retaining screw until you here a slight but positive click then pinch them both back in job done. If it was close to another click then probably maybe just a turn or turn and half would be enough for it to click out one notch.
 

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While I am not an expert, if the noise makes you feel uncomfortable, I would take it in to your nearest authorized dealership for a checkup. My 2017 ZX-10RR took a shit a few months back and it was the Cam Chain Tensioner. No noise prior to. Quiet with occasional and routine ramp ups. One morning, it just just took a shit. Well, that had a second, third, and tenth order effect on my bike that required $9,000 in repairs. Luckily, under warranty!! First they replaced the CCT. Then it was the chain that was damaged. Then they found a bad wrist pin that could have made for a very bad day if that failed. Unsure if the CCT and wrist pin are somehow related, but it all happened at once. After a 5 month delay awaiting parts from Japan, I got the bike back and it sounded like a broken down sewing machine. One of my buddy's, along with some advice on patience from Skydork, both confirmed that a new CCT will take some time or miles (whichever comes first), to set itself in position. Right around 900+ miles of worry, one morning I cold-started and the CCT noise was horrible but miraculously disappeared within 2 seconds or so. Now it is as quiet as it once was before the shitstorm. Again, if you are worried, I would not allow it to continue without an expert taking a look at it. Also, I've been suggested numerous times to swap out the garbage OEM CCT for an aftermarket APE tensioner. But since my bike is still under warranty and will be extended, I am reluctant to do so even if it means trouble-free miles. Remember, it is YOU who is riding the bike. And if something catastrophic should ever happen with the CCT or the CCT chain, it is YOU who will suffer any consequences should that take a shit at a high rate of speed. Ride safe!!
 

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My bike did the same thing(2012 Zx10r). Made noise after approx. 10,000 miles. I bought a manual tensioner but before I could install it, I did the manual adjustment on the stock tensioner like Micheal4012 said and it worked so well I never had to use the manual tensioner. Your choice......
 
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