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Discussion Starter #1
So ,
After suspecting everything electrical I believe my Amplifuer is causing intermittent non start ( engine turns over and fires up fine then if I say turn her off she will turn over and not start

So does the amplifier constantly scan and send the transponder to the ecu or is it just once when ignition is turned on ?
 

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The amplifier scans the key code each time it is inserted. If it registers properly, it will allow the engine to turnover. If not, it won't even turnover. Since you can't extract the key without turning the ignition off first, there's no way to really tell if it's continuously scanning it or not. Once it detects the registration, it should allow it to start all the time. If you're pulling the key out each time, then it may not register when reinserted if it's damaged or flaky. If you're just flipping the key position on-off-on constantly to try to restart, it should stay registered. I'd be curious if you stopped the engine with the kill switch and restarted it that way if it started all the time.

Either way, if the immobilizer doesn't register the key properly you'll get a visual warning light and symbol on the dash. So unless you see those things, it's registered and that isn't your issue. I'm not sure how you came to that conclusion since it should be pretty obvious if it's not working. If it turns over like you say it does, and there's no light or symbol on the dash, then that's not your issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Ok
I’m chasing a non start issue that has no visual fault or error code !

As I’ve said on previous posts I can disarm the bike insert key and bike turns over ( no error codes ) yet won’t start . I then release the starter button , try again , no start . Repeat couple times baboom she fires up .

Then the bike will start 30 times no problem ( using kill switch )

Then it won’t the 21st time

And so on

So far I’ve error code ( only the once ) for cam sensor (so fitted a different one ) then I had code 36 transponder issue so changed to a different already programmed key . Started 1st time every time result

Then today same issue FFE !

So it’s cutting ignition as can smell fuel in end can

Aerial around ignition ?

No idea anymore
 

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You should reference the service manual or Owner's manual on the immobilizer.

If you had an FI code 36, that means a blank key was detected. That means the key code wasn't registered with the ECU. The amplifier doesn't register anything. The amplifier reads the key code and transmits the code to the ECU. The ECU is where the registration happens. If you had an immobilizer antenna problem, it won't show a service code, but it should detect a non-registered key. You should see the red warning light flashing with the key symbol on the dash. In any of those cases, the starter motor won't even work. Did you see the warning light and key symbol flashing when the ignition was turned on? I'm betting "no" since the starter motor even worked. IMO, you're barking up the wrong tree with the immobilizer being the issue for your starting issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Seems every path is barkingbup the wrong tree

It briefly ( once ) had FI rrror cam sensor ( only once ) so changed that - no change
It only once registered code 36
But still started with the same key once I turned ignition off then back on ( using spare key now in case but no change )

Coils good
Wiring good
Plugs about 1000 miles ago
Power commander 5 with auto tune active can be read by laptop and shows activity lights
No FI errors

Yet still bike intermittently fires up 10 times ok then won’t the 11th just turns over , stop turning her over ? Wait 3 seconds try again fires up

Seems to be worse when cold

I’ve got vids as they show it better but can’t upload vids only pics on here
 

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Power commander 5 with auto tune active can be read by laptop and shows activity lights
I think you just found your problem. Get rid of that piggyback shit and see what you get.
 
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Discussion Starter #7
Hmmm not sure power commander only alters fuel doesn’t touch ignition so not sure it would kill the coils / ecu ??

But I have quickshifter which connects to power commander which kills ignition briefly above 3k hmmmm maybe it does but then quickshifter will be redundant meh . Just can’t seee how it would be at fatbas nothing gets touched the it will fire up
 

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Hmmm not sure power commander only alters fuel doesn’t touch ignition so not sure it would kill the coils / ecu ??

But I have quickshifter which connects to power commander which kills ignition briefly above 3k hmmmm maybe it does but then quickshifter will be redundant meh . Just can’t seee how it would be at fatbas nothing gets touched the it will fire up
Yeah, you're not understanding it correctly. Or aren't thinking outside the box.

The dynojet QS that connects to the PCV doesn't touch the ignition timing. It can't do that. It kills fuel momentarily through the PCV to make the shift happen. That's why it connects through the piggyback PCV box. If it was separate or killed the ignition, it wouldn't connect to the PCV. But if the PCV has an issue and the fueling is delayed slightly when it receives the injector signal, it will open the injectors for the fuel but at the wrong time. So it won't start/run correctly. Intermittently sometimes. And you'd still be getting raw fuel pumping into the exhaust even though the plugs are sparking right. If the PCV has some issues with too little fuel than actually required, it won't light off and will be pumped to the exhaust unburnt. You'll smell that in the exhaust like you said. The fact that it's an aftermarket modification that may or may not be affecting this should point you in that direction. Unplug it completely and try. That's the only way to know for sure so you can focus your attention to the real problem. You can't discount that as the issue just because sometimes it works and other times it seems fine.
 
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