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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
finally finished my head. a little porting, a little epoxy,a little combustion chamber work. .045 hg, jerry at cooper perf. decked .015 and comp. blended valve job. now for some cams and tuning.









 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
guys, pictures came out wrong on post,no detail, simply click on my profile,click on albums, double click pictures. sorry, struggling to get pics posted correctly. thanks.
 

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guys, pictures came out wrong on post, i did not post correctly, available on profile site under albums, simply click on pictures, thanks. sorry, not computer savy.:dontknow:
http://www.zx-10r.net/forum/album.php?albumid=538

Just go to your pictures...right click on one of your pictures and choose "Copy Image location" Then go back to your post to edit and choose/click the Icon with the Mountain with your mouse over it called "insert image" paste in the link you just copied from the Picture. I did one for you as you have 11

 

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Fantastic :thumbsup::thumbsup: Have high expectations on how this works out, because I have to believe you have done amazingly well before this head work. (so eager to hear how it turns out). :cool:
 

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It looks good! Crossing my fingers for ya.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
no flowbench used, though i have access to one. stayed basic to original port shape, saw areas of improvement besides recontouring ports extensively. match intake rubber, little bowl work, competition radius vj. the original finish in the intake port wad a polished, greasy surface, as finished at factory by buffing balls and rouge,also full of minor bumps and dips. much cruder than expected. seat insert to port match was terrible, as blue devil stated. i had the bottom of the seat under the angles bored, opened .020, this was negligable in correcting alignment, the i cut small grooves and epozied the area under the seat to correctly match. i think, know, kawasaki made a good head, ijust worked on the small things, texture,alignment,5 angle vj, better quench area, and a little more compression, and some beneficial exhaust work. im not new to porting heads, 25 yrs and dozens of heads, and im not jeff, bob or coby. truthfully, im rebuilding and finishing a salvage wreck, and ive spent a good deal of money. it was this simple, my head or no head. ive had strong engines in the past, you pick up a little here a little there on these new engines. will post results good, indifferent or bad.
 

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The work looks really good.

Curious how it performs. Let us know.

I was just down the road from Monroe this weekend (just got home) at Road Atlanta with NESBA.:mrgreen: That track is insane! Did you go?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
normally aspirated budget motor, going small web regrinds, just seated valves in head today and vj is perfectly concentric, well pleased. ha, im the one with my fingers crossed! missed road atlanta, will be at ama prostar in commerce this weekend. thanks guys.
 

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If you have access to a flow bench why would you not use it?
As far as flow goes, you can increase it by porting and polishing, you sound like you know what you are doing, just wanted to ask if you knew of negative affects caused by totally smoothing out the inlet runners, the bumps are there to turbulate the air somewhat and to give a better air/fuel mix and burn, does this show up on a dyno as a loss of power?
 

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Discussion Starter #17
my friend david at rockdale cycles, 20 miles away has a flowbench ive used before. works great on early kz heads that flow 68 cfm stock,and you need 90 to 100, it was very helpful.not so today, did i mention home built. you are wrong about todays engines with 12.7 cr needing help burning fuel. lumps, pits, tooling marks promote turbulance alright impeding flow,my port finish is 80 grit sand roll, produces great boundry layer for atomization. you heard of fuel inj?, atomizes fuel rel well. between fi, my port finish,especially compared to stk.,my .026 quench, thin head gasket, increasedcomp. from decking,and injectors cleaned and flowed, i got atomization covered. many things done to my head are to promote fast , complete burn necessary at 13k. as i said its the sum total of little things that produce more power in todays engines. as stated, kawasaki built a good head, the best builders in the country cant make but a few more horsepower in the head alone, with thier flowbench. its the sum of little things made right after mass production. by the way, flowbench numbers can really fool you at the track,i can guarantee you that.
 

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my friend david at rockdale cycles, 20 miles away has a flowbench ive used before. works great on early kz heads that flow 68 cfm stock,and you need 90 to 100, it was very helpful.not so today, did i mention home built. you are wrong about todays engines with 12.7 cr needing help burning fuel. lumps, pits, tooling marks promote turbulance alright impeding flow,my port finish is 80 grit sand roll, produces great boundry layer for atomization. you heard of fuel inj?, atomizes fuel rel well. between fi, my port finish,especially compared to stk.,my .026 quench, thin head gasket, increasedcomp. from decking,and injectors cleaned and flowed, i got atomization covered. many things done to my head are to promote fast , complete burn necessary at 13k. as i said its the sum total of little things that produce more power in todays engines. as stated, kawasaki built a good head, the best builders in the country cant make but a few more horsepower in the head alone, with thier flowbench. its the sum of little things made right after mass production. by the way, flowbench numbers can really fool you at the track,i can guarantee you that.
I'm not disagreeing with what you are saying about lumps and tooling marks etc. I'm talking about the actual finish of the metal, its like a bore having a 45 degree crosshatch pattern, in theory it increases friction in the bore but it also allows the oil to lubricate the rings properly therefore decreasing friction.
Some people think if you polish an intake runner babies bum smooth you will increase power but you might not. Air flow and heads are complicated when you get into the science of it, like I said before you seem to know what you are doing.
I have a spare head for my 10 and its fair to say that the factory finished intake runners are extremely well done, much better than most performance shops could do, you must have got a real dud one for there to be the imperfections you speak of....
 

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I totally agree with gazx10. The head is just good for mass prod. No more than that.
Most -gross-imperfections are at the bottom part of the duct, from the valve guides to the seat inserts; including the missalignment of many of them.
 

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I'm not disagreeing with what you are saying about lumps and tooling marks etc. I'm talking about the actual finish of the metal, its like a bore having a 45 degree crosshatch pattern, in theory it increases friction in the bore but it also allows the oil to lubricate the rings properly therefore decreasing friction.
Some people think if you polish an intake runner babies bum smooth you will increase power but you might not. Air flow and heads are complicated when you get into the science of it, like I said before you seem to know what you are doing.
I have a spare head for my 10 and its fair to say that the factory finished intake runners are extremely well done, much better than most performance shops could do, you must have got a real dud one for there to be the imperfections you speak of....
the factory runners are actually way to "slick"..u ever feel how uneven it feels when you rub your finger down one of em?a very smooth runner will cause the fuel to actually stick the runners.just cause a head flows well doesnt mean its gona produce hp either.Ryan Kallina just finished a head for my 10....it was also a epoxy port, and when i got it runnin.....my god the engine felt so much smoother and reved soo much quicker.i think you should do more homework on port jobs....this guy looks to have done an amazing job
 
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