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Discussion Starter #1
I got a chance to hit the button at the track. What a fuggen turd. At 4500' elevation, c-14 plus and muzzy map with 60 hp jet, I ran a slow as hell 10.8. WTF!? the bottle might have been to cold, the map might be too rich for the elevation I'm at? I'm running slower with nitrous than with my s/o and custom map. Any insight? I'm going to look for a bottle blanket and bottle heater. i think i also have to get a custom nitrous map for this elevation.
 

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yer killin me whitey :lol: sounds like a NOZ map is necessary.

BD
 

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1killer1liter said:
I got a chance to hit the button at the track. What a fuggen turd. At 4500' elevation, c-14 plus and muzzy map with 60 hp jet, I ran a slow as hell 10.8. WTF!? the bottle might have been to cold, the map might be too rich for the elevation I'm at? I'm running slower with nitrous than with my s/o and custom map. Any insight? I'm going to look for a bottle blanket and bottle heater. i think i also have to get a custom nitrous map for this elevation.
1killer1liter, I know we talked off line but I never asked you about your system,
what safeguards do you have? On, my camero I had so many that if one of them was not activated then the nos never kicked in. For example:

RPM limit switch....If not at the proper RPM then no NOS
Wide open Throttle...not wide open, then no NOS
Fuel Regulator....not enough pressure, then no NOS

Any chance one or more of these was not right when you hit the bottle on the track? I'm sure guys like Eric or other running NOS will can give you way more tips, just wanted to state the basics first. Good luck with that man, I would say WTF too because I seen you run better out here in Sac.
 

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C-14?? you don't need to run c-14 I'd guess thats the beginning of your problem. run a splash of race gas (110) in with premium pump gas and call it a day..
c-14 will never run good in a bike like that. your not spraying a car son.,
the load presented on a bike is nothing like the load placed on a car so the chances of detanation are much slimmer.

I have a friend that runs asphault snowmobiles and they have 1000cc motors that turn about 275 horse at the crank n/a and he runs c14+
 

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1killer1liter said:
I got a chance to hit the button at the track. What a fuggen turd. At 4500' elevation, c-14 plus and muzzy map with 60 hp jet, I ran a slow as hell 10.8. WTF!? the bottle might have been to cold, the map might be too rich for the elevation I'm at? I'm running slower with nitrous than with my s/o and custom map. Any insight? I'm going to look for a bottle blanket and bottle heater. i think i also have to get a custom nitrous map for this elevation.
how did it hit?
 

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Check over the obvious stuff. Pull your plugs to see if they look like the cylinder is running rich or lean which in your case I would be looking for a rich condition. Also something obvious and stupid to check for is if you have the tank oriented correctly. The opening for the valve of the tank needs to point down and forward because of the siphon in the tank. Also, you may want to put a pressure gauge somewhere inline of the nitrous supply line. You need to have about 1000 PSI+ in line pressure for optimum performance.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
busaforhire said:
C-14?? you don't need to run c-14 I'd guess thats the beginning of your problem. run a splash of race gas (110) in with premium pump gas and call it a day..
c-14 will never run good in a bike like that. your not spraying a car son.,
the load presented on a bike is nothing like the load placed on a car so the chances of detanation are much slimmer.

I have a friend that runs asphault snowmobiles and they have 1000cc motors that turn about 275 horse at the crank n/a and he runs c14+
Muzzy recommends c-16 be used with his nitrous kit. The place I went to did not have c-16 so I used c-14+ instead. I usually don't run race gas in the bike, but I didn't want to take a chance of blowing a motor because I didn't follow instructions.

My friend that has nitrous on his car says it hits soft. I would have to agree. I didn't really feel anything when I hit the button. Felt like a slow N/A bike.

I don't have any safegaurds to shut the nitrous off.
 

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1killer1liter said:
Muzzy recommends c-16 be used with his nitrous kit. The place I went to did not have c-16 so I used c-14+ instead. I usually don't run race gas in the bike, but I didn't want to take a chance of blowing a motor because I didn't follow instructions.

My friend that has nitrous on his car says it hits soft. I would have to agree. I didn't really feel anything when I hit the button. Felt like a slow N/A bike.

I don't have any safegaurds to shut the nitrous off.

c-16 is boloney on the amount you are spraying AND the fact that your only going to be spraying for about what 7-8 seconds?? I couls see if you were running top speed blasts or somoething but not at the track..
c-16 may work for you as well if you didn't add any fuel to the pc for NOS.
if your adding fuel through the pc3 AND running c14 (or 16 or whaever) the bike will run like ass..
where was your MPH in comparison to where your normally at??
 

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1killer1liter said:
Muzzy recommends c-16 be used with his nitrous kit. The place I went to did not have c-16 so I used c-14+ instead. I usually don't run race gas in the bike, but I didn't want to take a chance of blowing a motor because I didn't follow instructions.

My friend that has nitrous on his car says it hits soft. I would have to agree. I didn't really feel anything when I hit the button. Felt like a slow N/A bike.

I don't have any safegaurds to shut the nitrous off.
if you didnt feel nothing when you hit your nos its not working right.60 hp on a bike you should really feel it.i hit mine and have to hang on tight or ill fall off.your nos aint working so your running it rich so you are losing power that is what is happening.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
When I purged the system the idle came up. So how would the system not be working?
 

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its still not working. make a back stop in your air box so the nos doesnt go to the back of it. i dont know how your set up is but thats what i did so the nos reflects off it and goes in the motor evenly.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
The spray bars are just in front of the velocity stacks pointing toward the lid of the air box. Maybe I'll double check to see if there is any leaks.
 

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1killer1liter said:
The spray bars are just in front of the velocity stacks pointing toward the lid of the air box. Maybe I'll double check to see if there is any leaks.
put a piece of sheet metal right behind the stacks so it reflects off it and dont go to the back of the air box.
 

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eric said:
put a piece of sheet metal right behind the stacks so it reflects off it and dont go to the back of the air box.

Thats not going to make that much of a difference if anything it will only make it hit harder initially. it's not like the bike only uses a part of the air in the airbox.
honestly the further away from the stack you set up the nozzle the better atomzation between the cylinders BUT the longer the delay before it hits..
 

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1killer1liter said:
When I purged the system the idle came up. So how would the system not be working?

what are you doing for adding fuel??? if the idle raised you at least got something there..
do you have a pressure gauge? if not get one.. all braided lines?? if not you need them. the temps are too warm around the engine for the cheap lines to hold up. you could have a leak or something as well.. like I said run pumpgas and see what you got.
 

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Take it to a dyno and figure out a good map for your elevation. Make sure there is no load (if applicable). If you are usuing a large enough bottle, above 2lbs., you won't need a bottle heater... that is just for bottle presure, Do you have a pressure guage, and if so... what was it reading when you were spraying?

I would say it is the map more then anything...
 

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busaforhire said:
Thats not going to make that much of a difference if anything it will only make it hit harder initially. it's not like the bike only uses a part of the air in the airbox.
honestly the further away from the stack you set up the nozzle the better atomzation between the cylinders BUT the longer the delay before it hits..
it worked for me. my bike is setup a little different then his. i have to have it hit right away so the bike dont bogg down because i got the instant rich on mine.i hit the button and the rpms would go up, then take on the highway and hit the nos and nothing. i modded the airbox and then hit it and it almost threw me off my bike so it did make a huge differance on mine.
 

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eric said:
it worked for me. my bike is setup a little different then his. i have to have it hit right away so the bike dont bogg down because i got the instant rich on mine.i hit the button and the rpms would go up, then take on the highway and hit the nos and nothing. i modded the airbox and then hit it and it almost threw me off my bike so it did make a huge differance on mine.
yea but most of all you have an extended arm.. I didn't say what you did wouldn't work I just said that it wasn't nessasary to make it work..
stock arm you want that 40-60 horse to hit as soft as you can..
Personally I wouldn't run a dry shot on the zx10 without a progressive of some sort. even with an arm. if you think your fast without a progressive you'd be amazed at the difference one could make.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I think dstrbdzx10r is on the same page I am. I think the muzzy map would work well if at sea level. I guess I could try the pump gas also. I don't want a progressive because I don't want to replace the solenoid more often than I have to.
 
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