Kawasaki ZX-10R Forum banner

21 - 27 of 27 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
I used to sell these by the ton. actually still have a few boxes left. there is nothing to be scared about the wires. In fact, you can and should cut them down to where you want them/need them. Also used to do the installs myself as well and for a premium cost would make it all neat. Its definitely not for the faint of heart. My personal issue and why it would always take me longer than some is that I make sure to do it super neat and clean. I can't do it otherwise.

Have a great guy if anyone needs projectors or install.

The ones I have I can let go cheap. The best thing about the projectors is that they are directional and have a cutoff for the beams, where you're not blinding anyone and get best light output where its needed in front of you.
We'll be working on buddy's ZX10R next right after we finished installing the railings and truck headache rack on his current Ram project. I'll shoot you a PM if you consider the projector for his headlight. We put a projector headlight on his truck and he likes it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
467 Posts
Can you post up a clear picture of the rear of the headlight assembly while installed in the bike? Both sides if possible - Thanks!
I can but since I still have yet to decide how I'm gonna tidy up all the extra shit I installed with the projector and led setup I haven't yet. The right side has the dust cover on it but the left side doesn't. I'm just glad I have a spare set of dust covers. I added demon eyes and led tracer lights, and with the gen 5, you can't run the wires between the headlights inside of the assembly. the only part that joins the left and right is a plastic flat bar. Because I wanted both lights on all the time but still needed to control the hi low cut off it meant 2 pairs of extra wires between the sides. then I have the wire for the demon eyes and the accent lighting so yeah I'll post pics as soon as I figure out how to make it look good enough to do some I'm the only one that can see any of it but I don't like it. from the front it looks great. give me a day or two more and I'll have it sorted out
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
467 Posts
phone is almost dead so can't use flash but here is the one with the dust cover on. I used a heat gun when I installed the larger set of LED lights to stretch the cover. didn't want a hole in it. like I said I'll get better pics in next day or two
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
526 Posts
phone is almost dead so can't use flash but here is the one with the dust cover on. I used a heat gun when I installed the larger set of LED lights to stretch the cover. didn't want a hole in it. like I said I'll get better pics in next day or two
I'm surprised how you fit it over, but like you said... you stretched the covers. how's the heat with those closed up? I thought those LEDs run real hot.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
467 Posts
IDK, guess time will tell. I did remove the little wire path plug at the top of both sides of the headlight and made sure it had a hole through it. It comes with a plastic cap over it and a rubber plug underneath the plastic deal. I left them open cause 1) it allows heat to vent even if only a tiny amount, 2) they have little tube type paths so it would be nearly impossible for water to get inside via that route especially since the tube points out but is still inside of a recessed area. Any water that got even close would just go into the recess but never make it into the assembly.
Worst case scenario, some moisture does get inside so I drill a tiny drain hole in the lowest part of the assembly and blow dried air in through the top until there is no more sign of water or condensation (yes I know still water) and then use a rubber plug or a tiny dab of silicone to plug the drain hole. Doubt that will ever happen as I used to run my gen 1 without dust covers all the time for years and would ride in the rain. my old led bulbs were water resistant to all hell so that was not an issue and I never once got moisture inside the actual assembly.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
467 Posts
side note, to stretch the caps/covers I used some motul chain lube as the pushing device, a small nozzle on my portable reflow heat gun and fairly low heat setting I think around 200c. I took my sweet time and did it while the cap was propped up between a couple stacks of cinder blocks. I heated the outside first until the plastic looked like it was wet and glossy and just barely started to say a tiny bit, I then flipped the thing over and let it hang between the blocks, waited about 15 or 20 seconds and started heating the inside until the plastic just barley got glossy, you have to keep the heat moving in a circular motion and need to do so rather quickly. don't heat until it sags when heating the inside or it will likley end up stretching till it tears. After the cap gets a slight glossy wet look remove the heat, wait about 15 seconds and carefully but quickly center the part you will use to stretch and very gently apply a small amount of pressure. don't stretch it all at once. it's better to use the heat gun to slowly heat the outside again after a 1/4 inch stretch. for the second heat cycle I started with the inside then heated the outside while applying a small amount of pressure with my chain lube can. I got the correct amount of stretch the second time in under 1 min. Just take your time with the heat and try not to melt it to the point it wants to collapse or sag cause it will turn into a blob of shit
 
21 - 27 of 27 Posts
Top