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Discussion Starter #1
On my 05 10 I just went to a 190/55/17 PP 2ct and with no other changes its Heavy steering. It takes major effort on the bars to even stay in a lane with the same setup and the 190/50 it steered effortless.

Right now the forks are 10mm down from stock. 28 mm race sag
Rear is stock With 25mm sag.

What is a good starting point for this setup? Anyone one have any notes as to geometry and sag numbers that work good with this tire.

Also the front brake lines are Goodridge Kevlar that I had lying around from a r6 and they are snug with the forks extended so I need to change out the lines before I can raise the front back up.
 

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you need more sag in front you need 40mm from full uncompressed! and you say "race sag" are you racing the bike? or street ridding it? most people think race settings are good for the street and there not!!!!!!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
you need more sag in front you need 40mm from full uncompressed! and you say "race sag" are you racing the bike? or street ridding it? most people think race settings are good for the street and there not!!!!!!!!
Track\street bike. I only rode it 2 times on the street last year but no track time so i need to accualy ride it. But its mostly a street bike with some track time.

Thanks for the sugestion. For some reason i was thinking 25-30mm track and 30-35mm street. Ill get the sag in spec and see where it is from there. What do you recomend for rear sag?
 

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This doesn't really help you but when I went from a 50 to a 55, I absolutely loved it! Turned soo much better that it felt like my bike had gained rear steering!!

If your pressures are fine and the profile/wear of the front tire is good, then my next question is what other changes have been made? Is this turning in both directions? If its only one direction, the alignment may be off.

Interested in the solution to this one... Is the front a 2CT too?
 

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Man 10mm in the front seems way to much,the bike should be almost fallen over with it that lowered.Im 3mm in the front from stock.I run a 55 rear also,i had it set up at the track by a suspention tech.Im 6 foot 2, 205 with gear so set ups will be different with weight.
 

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Man 10mm in the front seems way to much,the bike should be almost fallen over with it that lowered.Im 3mm in the front from stock.I run a 55 rear also,i had it set up at the track by a suspention tech.Im 6 foot 2, 205 with gear so set ups will be different with weight.
Before I switched to the 55, I was told the same thing by my local shop. Just switch to a 55 and leave the forks alone...
 

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Trackstreet bike. I only rode it 2 times on the street last year but no track time so i need to accualy ride it. But its mostly a street bike with some track time.

Thanks for the sugestion. For some reason i was thinking 25-30mm track and 30-35mm street. Ill get the sag in spec and see where it is from there. What do you recomend for rear sag?
street I would do 40mm front 35mm rear and lift the front of the bike 6mm so your droped 4mm what do you have from comp and rebound #'s
 

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Is it over steering or under steering? Meaning when you are taking a left hand corner do you have to push on the inside bar or pull on it? I would think that with the front that low it would over steer or feel like it wants to fall on its side while cornering.

I would tend to agree that 10mm is way to much for the 10r, I have my chassis set to 5mm down in the front and 3mm extra ride height, but its a race bike with aftermarket suspension. I would say go back to stock chassis settings and see how it feels.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Both tires are new and 2cts.

Its under steering. The main problem is turn in. its hard to get it to wont to change direction. It’s pretty stable but just does not won’t to turn. It’s trying to push the front end through the Corner.

With the 50 tire I just kept lowering the forks until I was happy with the turn in. at 10mm it would drop into a Corner great. My track bike is a 636 and it still had faster turn in.
I don’t know the comp and rebound setting but I’ll go count them here in a little while.
I am also 6”3’ and 175lb
 

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Both tires are new and 2cts.

Its under steering. The main problem is turn in. its hard to get it to wont to change direction. It’s pretty stable but just does not won’t to turn. It’s trying to push the front end through the Corner.

With the 50 tire I just kept lowering the forks until I was happy with the turn in. at 10mm it would drop into a Corner great. My track bike is a 636 and it still had faster turn in.
I don’t know the comp and rebound setting but I’ll go count them here in a little while.
I am also 6”3’ and 175lb
steering damper? because thats the weirdest thing I have ever heard. :dontknow: I'm stumped, let me know when you get it figured out.
 

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It's under steering because your sag is so far off, your sitting to high in the front and have little dive off gas! and when you get on the gas you squatting and the bike wants to run wide! I bet its real bad after apex! no big deal just set sag and lift nose!
 

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Discussion Starter #13
It's under steering because your sag is so far off, your sitting to high in the front and have little dive off gas! and when you get on the gas you squatting and the bike wants to run wide! I bet its real bad after apex! no big deal just set sag and lift nose!
I just measured it ageain and its accualy at 35mm(I dont know where i got 28mm) Im going to take 5mm out of it and see where that leaves it.

I dont have anyone here to help me mesure the rear sag maybe that was at 28mm and i got them mixed up. I will re check tomarow

fork rebound is 2 clicks out( I do not rember why i had them set so stiff stock is 9 clicks)
fork comp is 7 clicks out
 

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Discussion Starter #14
It does push a little after the apex but mostly on turn in.

I’m also talking about going down the highway and my arms are getting tired because i am having to muscle the bike to keep it in one lane. Having to PUSH hard on the handle bars just to make a small correction.

I’m also going to take the front end off tomorrow something just is not right. I need to check my steering head bearings anyway.
 

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I just measured it ageain and its accualy at 35mm(I dont know where i got 28mm) Im going to take 5mm out of it and see where that leaves it.

I dont have anyone here to help me mesure the rear sag maybe that was at 28mm and i got them mixed up. I will re check tomarow

fork rebound is 2 clicks out( I do not rember why i had them set so stiff stock is 9 clicks)
fork comp is 7 clicks out
Holy shit! 2 OUT from full stiff is way too hard! This will cause the front to "pack" it will drop down and not return back up! you want your reb to act fast!!!! w/o bouncing at top of stroke! <----- but you want to be able to hold your brake push the front of the bike down hard and have it POP back up and just settle down! so 1/2 of a bounce! Same with the rear! Your fast rebound is how you bike maintains traction after a bump it need to push the tire back to the ground FAST!!!



do this:


set sag 40 35

base line comp and reb set them both right in the middle i.e if it had 10 clicks put it on 5! do this front and rear!

put forks to only 4mm drop!
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Yea I have messed with the settings and aparenty they got out of wack at some time in its life. Im am dusting my bike off for the first time in a year just trying to get her back in some kind of shape.

The only problem with the forks are my brake lines are not long enough to go back to stock so i need to change them out. Do they make a 1/2 inch extension for a banjo fitting?
 

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Here is another solution for you. You have the front forks dropped 10mm with a previous 50 series tire. Now you put a 55 series tire on which is 5 mm taller changing the rake. This is now the same as running a 50 series tire with the front end dropped 15mm. Easy solution. Since your rear tire is 5mm taller raise your front end back up by 5mm to compensate for the taller rear tire and you should be exactly where you were before the tire change with effortless handling.
 

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Yea I have messed with the settings and aparenty they got out of wack at some time in its life. Im am dusting my bike off for the first time in a year just trying to get her back in some kind of shape.

The only problem with the forks are my brake lines are not long enough to go back to stock so i need to change them out. Do they make a 1/2 inch extension for a banjo fitting?


they do, go to a hydraulic hose supply store they should be able to hook you up we have one in my town I have paid $50 for a complete set of braded brake lines {same as the goodridge ss line! } online they would have cost $150 for the same set!
 

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Is it possible you got something wrong on the re-install of the wheels? I can see the taller rear tire changing handling but not as severely as you are experiencing. Reach a happy median on sag and ride heigth, and get the preload, comp & rebound into a normal range. What profile front tire?
 

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Having trouble with turn in with the front lowered 10mm from stock, the rear raised almost 10mm from stock with a 190/55, and the rebound flow damn near closed makes absolutely no sense.
 
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