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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi guys, new to the forum! I have a 2009 Zx10 with 9500 miles The previous owner left the bike in storage for several years with some fuel in the tank so when I bought it the inside of the tank was completely rusted up and I for obvious reasons assumed it was all in the fuel system. I recently replaced the fuel tank with a great condition used tank, replaced the fuel pump with a low mileage oem pump, was going to just replace all 8 injectors but the guy I bought the parts from sent me an entire throttle body assembly complete with injectors and lines + the 4 secondaries. All of this has been installed along with a new air filter and 4 new spark plugs but low and behold the exact same problem is still present. I have double and triple checked the common problem of having a pinched fuel line as well as jumping the kickstand switch and neither seem to be the culprit. To explain the problem with a little more detail, The bike seems to run great under 8kish rpm, under load, WOT, cruising etc. but right around that rpm when under load it starts to stutter and cut out really hard, under WOT at that rpm it almost completely dies on itself. I can play with the throttle around those rpm and get it to rise to around 10k or so but not much more. It’s got me stumped, any advise would be much appreciated! Thanks in advance
 

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Had the previous owner tuned it too a set up which isn't on the bike now, like fl exhaust system, high flow air filter or even bigger cams? It does sound like a fueling issue to me right there about 8000 rpm is where those secondary injectors really start pumping it in, i knoe thete the replacement but are you sure there clean and undamaged, hopefully someone will have other suggestions.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
It hasn’t been flashed or programmed that I’m aware of. The bike is in 100% oem configuration right now and previous owner stated it always was.
I also cannot be for sure that the injectors are clean as they are used but I will say the symptoms I’m having are exactly the same before these injectors and fuel pump as they were before. I just thought it would be odd that 2 sets of injectors would be exactly the same as well as fuel pump.
If no one chimes in with anything that makes me think different I’ll probably just break down this weekend and order a new fuel pump.
 

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When you changed the pump was it the complete unit or just the motor inside? Either way was the guaze filter underneath the electric motor renewed?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I replaced the whole unit. I separated the pump body before install and flushed the filter in fresh gas a few times. It didn’t look bad at all, decently white and didn’t show any signs of being bad.
 

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2016 Kawasaki ZX-10R KRT ABS Edition
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An oil change wont help your scenario but I'm sure the bike could use it. It doesn't sound like a fuel pump issue guy, I wouldn't waste your money on a new one. Take the situation slowly. You replaced entire fuel system practically (which was probably a good thing for the longevity of the bike). Your bike runs, but at a certain point it conks. I think your issue might be 1 of 3 things.

1: You fueling is wack and so is the previous owner. The ECU has been modified and needs a re-flash. (You might as well send that off for flashing anyway or install an FT kit yourself, my buddy can have your ECU flashed & shipped the same day granted he's worked with a Gen3 before)
2: Your throttle bodies are out of sync.
3: Your coils are bad.

You can test the coils by taking a multi-meter and measuring the resistance across the 2 terminals on the plug. You should read constant, and the same, resistance across all 4. Make sure they are 10,000% seated. You shouldn't be able to get even a fingernail between the plug and the port.

For additional precaution, since the bike's been sitting and is old, you should also take the multimeter and check your battery, should read around 12.4V or so, and then bump up to 14+ when the bike is started. The voltage should remain constant when the bike is on. If the voltage doesn't increase on startup your stator is bad. If the voltage is all over the place your voltage regulator is bad. I would probably start there, then check the coils, then check your TBs. If you get a TB/Carb synchronizer (off Amazon) and you see the TB's are in sync, return the unit like you bought it (to Amazon) and get your $$$ back. Then head to a certified Kawi dealer or a local mechanic (recommended on your state's facebook rider page, for ex. mine is called "MI Riders") so you can just get the darn thing taken care of and get on the road asap.
 

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You really arent getting what it probably is? Just my opinion anyway, but the red flag is where you said "was going to just replace all 8 injectors but"... you ended up using the same injectors that came out of a gummed up system that sat for years?? Id have either replaced them all or sent them all off to one of the many places across the US that cleans injectors. On top of that id have replaced everything in the fuel system like you did with the tank and pump, including any lines. Bet injectors are clogged.
 

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You really arent getting what it probably is? Just my opinion anyway, but the red flag is where you said "was going to just replace all 8 injectors but"... you ended up using the same injectors that came out of a gummed up system that sat for years?? Id have either replaced them all or sent them all off to one of the many places across the US that cleans injectors. On top of that id have replaced everything in the fuel system like you did with the tank and pump, including any lines. Bet injectors are clogged.
You need to re-read it... Injectors got replaced. All 8. He got a complete throttle assy that included injectors, rails, lines, etc.
 

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You need to re-read it... Injectors got replaced. All 8.
Yea but was it the old stuff?? For some reason i thought it was same injectors from the gummed up system. Regardless, if the guy let a bike sit for that long, hard telling how he treated the TB's/FI's. I wouldnt buy anything else from him lol. :dontknow:
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
You really arent getting what it probably is? Just my opinion anyway, but the red flag is where you said "was going to just replace all 8 injectors but"... you ended up using the same injectors that came out of a gummed up system that sat for years?? Id have either replaced them all or sent them all off to one of the many places across the US that cleans injectors. On top of that id have replaced everything in the fuel system like you did with the tank and pump, including any lines. Bet injectors are clogged.
You need to re-read it... Injectors got replaced. All 8.
Correct! All 8 got replaced as well as tb assm.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
An oil change wont help your scenario but I'm sure the bike could use it. It doesn't sound like a fuel pump issue guy, I wouldn't waste your money on a new one. Take the situation slowly. You replaced entire fuel system practically (which was probably a good thing for the longevity of the bike). Your bike runs, but at a certain point it conks. I think your issue might be 1 of 3 things.

1: You fueling is wack and so is the previous owner. The ECU has been modified and needs a re-flash. (You might as well send that off for flashing anyway or install an FT kit yourself, my buddy can have your ECU flashed & shipped the same day granted he's worked with a Gen3 before)
2: Your throttle bodies are out of sync.
3: Your coils are bad.

You can test the coils by taking a multi-meter and measuring the resistance across the 2 terminals on the plug. You should read constant, and the same, resistance across all 4. Make sure they are 10,000% seated. You shouldn't be able to get even a fingernail between the plug and the port.

For additional precaution, since the bike's been sitting and is old, you should also take the multimeter and check your battery, should read around 12.4V or so, and then bump up to 14+ when the bike is started. The voltage should remain constant when the bike is on. If the voltage doesn't increase on startup your stator is bad. If the voltage is all over the place your voltage regulator is bad. I would probably start there, then check the coils, then check your TBs. If you get a TB/Carb synchronizer (off Amazon) and you see the TB's are in sync, return the unit like you bought it (to Amazon) and get your $$$ back. Then head to a certified Kawi dealer or a local mechanic (recommended on your state's facebook rider page, for ex. mine is called "MI Riders") so you can just get the darn thing taken care of and get on the road asap.
Oil is fresh, changed when I first bought it a month or so ago. I’ll test the coils this week tho and let you know. Thanks for the tip
 

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lol im no help as usual so ill shut up but id think that between a clogged pump, injectors or squashed fuel line, im not sure what else it could be. And although im not familiar with your model, id think that if you can get it to 10K it would not be in Limp Mode. No codes??
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
lol im no help as usual so ill shut up but id think that between a clogged pump, injectors or squashed fuel line, im not sure what else it could be. And although im not familiar with your model, id think that if you can get it to 10K it would not be in Limp Mode. No codes??
Lol I’m not sure either. And nope, no codes.
 

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i had the exactly the same problem as you 2010 model 8500 miles and it was clogged injectors, main injectors wern't too bad but still needed cleaning and top injectors were almost totally clogged got three cleaned and bought one new. What caused mine was previous owner hardly ever rode it and stale fuel clogged them at least it backs up low mileage. hope this helps
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
How does she idle? Is her idle pretty chatty or smooth as butter?
Also 2 questions:
1: Did you run the bike before the tank/fuel-system swap?
1A: Did you have these issues before yes/no/unsure?
2: I assume when you say you got the whole TB assy you mean the following assy.. see link
2A: https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/kawasaki/motorcycle/2009/ninja-zx-10r-zx1000e9f/throttle
Yes, the entire assembly. Although it was a used assembly so possibly these injectors are clogged too?
It runs great under 8k, can daily it with no issues at all, idles smooth, puts out good low end power etc. And yes, unfortunately I did run the bike once or twice with the old setup
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
i had the exactly the same problem as you 2010 model 8500 miles and it was clogged injectors, main injectors wern't too bad but still needed cleaning and top injectors were almost totally clogged got three cleaned and bought one new. What caused mine was previous owner hardly ever rode it and stale fuel clogged them at least it backs up low mileage. hope this helps
Thanks. I’ll look into getting these cleaned and we’ll see how it goes.
 

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Checking the injectors is a fairly easy task. You just need a 9V battery and two wires to test injector. They are either working or there not. Fill them with fuel and then add power and you should be able to blow the fuel out with air hose if they are opening under power. They are good or bad.

On another note, I think Ddipaola is onto something with the coils. Years ago my ZX636R in my micro sprint had a similar issue and it turned out to be a bad coil. Would idle and run but under hard load it would shut it self off. Turns out we had a yamaha R6 coil installed. Coils are fairly cheap and I would look there as that is a very easy fix.

Good luck and keep us posted!
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Checking the injectors is a fairly easy task. You just need a 9V battery and two wires to test injector. They are either working or there not. Fill them with fuel and then add power and you should be able to blow the fuel out with air hose if they are opening under power. They are good or bad.

On another note, I think Ddipaola is onto something with the coils. Years ago my ZX636R in my micro sprint had a similar issue and it turned out to be a bad coil. Would idle and run but under hard load it would shut it self off. Turns out we had a yamaha R6 coil installed. Coils are fairly cheap and I would look there as that is a very easy fix.

Good luck and keep us posted!
Will do, I’ll test coils tomorrow and probably have my local shop clean the injectors. Thanks everyone
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Hey guys, just tested the coils and all four read between 2.0-2.2 primary ohm and 9.6-9.8 secondary kohm.
Gonna test the fuel pump tomorrow and go from there.
 
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