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I'm also in clarksville you could look for a power commander with auto tune and if you are stock geared you can run 1 down 2 up and you will have all the low end you can Handel just took that off mine and reheated for more mid with the build I am doing also goodies in nashville should have there dyno up by end of the month and last thing did you buy a fairing kit or is that original
Gooches. In nashville
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
I'm also in clarksville you could look for a power commander with auto tune and if you are stock geared you can run 1 down 2 up and you will have all the low end you can Handel just took that off mine and reheated for more mid with the build I am doing also goodies in nashville should have there dyno up by end of the month and last thing did you buy a fairing kit or is that original
Never heard of that shop in Nashville, I will hit them up and see what they'd charge. yea it's all confusing: Mail in ECU Flash, PCV (w/ auto tune), dyno tune, dyno tune with PCV, etc. No my fairing kit is factory OEM came on the 2009 Special Edition ZX-10R's I believe
 

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It's not often I say this but, for the set up you have a mail in flash will probably put you right, it will certainly be better than what you have and leave you some cash for sprockets. It's more noticeable when cold, but adjusted ignition, secondary fly map and a better guess at the fuel map ( Mail in is a guess) and you ll have tidy bike not owing you so much. If your gonna start spending cash then go the Woolich route PCV is old piggy back style now and not much cheaper at the end of the day.
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
It's not often I say this but, for the set up you have a mail in flash will probably put you right, it will certainly be better than what you have and leave you some cash for sprockets. It's more noticeable when cold, but adjusted ignition, secondary fly map and a better guess at the fuel map ( Mail in is a guess) and you ll have tidy bike not owing you so much. If your gonna start spending cash then go the Woolich route PCV is old piggy back style now and not much cheaper at the end of the day.
Thanks man, Im heavily leaning towards the mail-in ECU flash (SchnitzRacing is what Im thinking). Dumb question, does the ECU flash tuner need to know if I am going with a different size sprocket for the flash or is that a non-issue? Also I need to find out how to get to the ECU on the Gen3, Im assuming it's under the main seat. lol. thanks man for all your help.
 

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Sprockets are a non issue, remove side panels under the seat remove the seat remove rear seat or tail, remove the small panel between the 2 seats. ECU is the larger black box under the smaller, unplug everything carefully it's easy to pull a pin and notice until there's a problem later on.
 

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Thanks man, Im heavily leaning towards the mail-in ECU flash (SchnitzRacing is what Im thinking). Dumb question, does the ECU flash tuner need to know if I am going with a different size sprocket for the flash or is that a non-issue? Also I need to find out how to get to the ECU on the Gen3, Im assuming it's under the main seat. lol. thanks man for all your help.
Regearing the bike will affect the speed displayed on the bike, but has nothing to do with the ECU. That model uses a rudimentary form of the traction control, which is predictive only. If you change the final drive gearing, then you'll need to add some sort of Speedohealer to it to correct the speed and mileage shown. Otherwise it won't have any impact on anything else.

The ECU is in the tailsection. Just need to remove the tail fairing to get to it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Not to bad looking to me, for sure you will feel the bump up to a 200 from 190, yupp what 97 grnys is saying just that little lost down low also where your noticing the increased gearing (200/55) it would be happier with a tune, but also if you call up Gearing Commander - Motorcycle Speed and Drive Train Calculator v7 you will see what happens with your 200 going up 1 tooth on the rear just about corrects it but not knowing what gearing you currently have and if you plans for gearing already.
Thanks man so I'm gonna order the Vortex 42 sprocket since stock the rear is a 41, and gonna send off ECU tomorrow to Schnitz for the flash. Can't wait to see how different she feels.
 

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Hello, my 09 ZX-10R has a K&N Race Filter, Slip On Exhaust and it was running fine. Recently we de-catted the header and the bike has been running rough. I expected it have to get a tune after we de-catted it, but I wasn't expecting it to feel so different. It feels like it's lost maybe 20-30% power, the exhaust sounds flat and I know it's because the air/fuel is off.

So my options are a mail-in ECU Flash to SchnitzRacing (or comparable shop) with a specific list of mods done to bike and they can flash the ECU. I'd prefer the dyno tune, but both of the local shops have quoted $800-$900, and one of the shops wants to install a PCV and tune it with that on there. The ECU Flash is around $300-$350

First off, does that price seem high for dyno tune? I'm in the NW Tennessee area (Ft Campbell).

The one shop quoted $900 without even installing a PCV, so it's just not worth it to me.

My main question is, will I be just fine going with a mail-in ECU Flash? I'm not trying to squeeze out every last HP, but I do want to get the bike running strong again and benefit from a tune/flash

Thank you,


I have a 2015 ZX 10 R and my mechanic took out the ECU I sent it to Guhl Racing in Pennsylvania told him what kind of pipe I was running (SC PROJECT) he flashed it perfectly and sent it back my bike runs beautifully and dyno at almost 200 hp to the rear wheel I’ve also seen quotes for that plug-in harness you’re talking about and going on the DYNO but where I live in Oregon it was a $600 quote but not necessary unless you have extra money to spend Pick a good place to flash it and call them and have a conversation first About expectations and you should be ok
 

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Hello, my 09 ZX-10R has a K&N Race Filter, Slip On Exhaust and it was running fine. Recently we de-catted the header and the bike has been running rough. I expected it have to get a tune after we de-catted it, but I wasn't expecting it to feel so different. It feels like it's lost maybe 20-30% power, the exhaust sounds flat and I know it's because the air/fuel is off.

So my options are a mail-in ECU Flash to SchnitzRacing (or comparable shop) with a specific list of mods done to bike and they can flash the ECU. I'd prefer the dyno tune, but both of the local shops have quoted $800-$900, and one of the shops wants to install a PCV and tune it with that on there. The ECU Flash is around $300-$350

First off, does that price seem high for dyno tune? I'm in the NW Tennessee area (Ft Campbell).

The one shop quoted $900 without even installing a PCV, so it's just not worth it to me.

My main question is, will I be just fine going with a mail-in ECU Flash? I'm not trying to squeeze out every last HP, but I do want to get the bike running strong again and benefit from a tune/flash

Thank you,


.
try 2wheeldynoworks.com give them a call
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
Just an update here. So I sent my ECU off to get flashed by 2 Wheel Dyno Works. Got the ECU back, installed it and took the bike for a spin. I initially couldn't tell a dramatic difference (but I had not been riding the bike in a week + since I was waiting for the ECU, so hard to tell), but today I got on the bike again and put maybe 200 miles on her and all in all shes running like a raped ape. The best way to describe it is she feels real strong in the mid to upper RPM, most notably it really seems to pull harder in the upper RPM range, and not having a rev limiter on it I feel like its unlocked a new dimension in the upper RPM's. It feels awesome. But I am still missing some power down low, I just need to accept that after de-catting the stock headers, it's just going to feel different from here on out. The powerband has shifted to the mid to upper RPM's. It does bug me a bit that before I de-catted the pipe, I had to really fight the front end coming up in first gear on a hard pull. I will say that the front end doesn't want to come up as hard any more in 1st.

As the bike sits, it's got a K&N Race Intake, Slip-On exhaust and de-catted headers, along with the 2WDW ECU flash. I think I am going to take the advice from some of you in this thread and do a +2 rear sprocket (and a speedohealer). It's something cheap I can do to get some oomph back in the lower RPM's.

I think part of the problem is I am chasing that WOW factor I had from when I first bought the bike. Those first 2 weeks was a full dose of adrenaline every time I got on the bike. As SkyDork told me on here, I would eventually get used to the power and it will start feeling slow. I wouldn't say it feels slow, but the power isn't giving me that adrenaline shot I was getting before. And since I've done this stuff to the bike, I don't know how much of it is legit lost power or just me getting used to it. I may throw it on a dyno here soon for a 'curiosity' run just to see where it's making it's power and if the numbers are good.

In the meantime, I'm thinking +2 sprocket (can I use the OEM chain with a +2?) and I want to do the plugs and oil change - partly because I don't know the service history on the bike (only got it on March 1st) and partly because I want to understand the bike better.

Besides what's been done so far to the motor (I know, not much) any other suggestions on what I can do to squeak a few more HP out of the bike? Not trying to go power adder or anything, but I want to make sure this make is running at it's potential.

I know it's hard to tell from a video, but here is a pull I did on it yesterday - I think she's doing OK power wise:

 

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To prevent chain length issues, I went -1 on the front sprocket and +1 on the rear, this eliminated all bog off idle and enables the bike to get to the upper RPM band quicker and that's what is important on liter bikes. They go like a scalded cat up near the redline and once you get accustomed to their twitchiness there, the low end of the RPM range seems lackadaisical.
I also run the 2WDW flash with a Two Bros full exhaust and have been happy with it on track and on the street.
As far as further tweaks go, this forum has endless arguments over which ones work and how well. I haven't messed with the airbox or the cams but I understand those are the next areas that can give a nice boost. Before you go that far, ride the bike more and learn what it can and can't do in its present form. You may be surprised. I decided to improve the rideability of the bike instead of chasing horsepower i.e. SS brake lines, better pads, upgraded suspension, had the steering dampener re-valved so that it actually works, adjustable levers, quick shifter, etc.
If you are going to service the bike, make sure you flush the coolant and replace with new, same with your brake fluid.
Even though your bike looks well cared for, those just may be the same fluids that came with the bike when brand new and that's not a good thing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
To prevent chain length issues, I went -1 on the front sprocket and +1 on the rear, this eliminated all bog off idle and enables the bike to get to the upper RPM band quicker and that's what is important on liter bikes. They go like a scalded cat up near the redline and once you get accustomed to their twitchiness there, the low end of the RPM range seems lackadaisical.
I also run the 2WDW flash with a Two Bros full exhaust and have been happy with it on track and on the street.
As far as further tweaks go, this forum has endless arguments over which ones work and how well. I haven't messed with the airbox or the cams but I understand those are the next areas that can give a nice boost. Before you go that far, ride the bike more and learn what it can and can't do in its present form. You may be surprised. I decided to improve the rideability of the bike instead of chasing horsepower i.e. SS brake lines, better pads, upgraded suspension, had the steering dampener re-valved so that it actually works, adjustable levers, quick shifter, etc.
If you are going to service the bike, make sure you flush the coolant and replace with new, same with your brake fluid.
Even though your bike looks well cared for, those just may be the same fluids that came with the bike when brand new and that's not a good thing.
Thanks. Yeah since I got the 2WDW ECU flash back, I noticed it really screams in the upper RPMs. I don't know if it's because the Rev limiter is removed, but I know especially in like second gear as it starts climbing towards 11,000+ RPMs, she is like a fighter jet.

Maybe that is why I feel like the bike has such bad throttle response and is gutless now down low... is because I'm getting used to the higher power in the upper RPMs.

My vortex +2 sprocket will be here today, I will install that. I also got the driven block off plates and plug coming today as well. I might install the block off plates today, but I'm still waiting on the pair valve bypass plug in the mail. Not sure if I should wait and just install it all at once. I'm hoping between the plus two sprocket, and the block off plates and bypass plug that my lower RPM issue will get corrected. It just feels like it's lacking throttle response now below 6,000 RPMs.

I haven't heard of any airbox mods, besides the K&N filter that I put in the bike. I am tracking on the brake lines and pads... I will be getting both of those soon, as the bike needs new pads anyway. Any recommendations on pads? For front and rear? Thank you for your response
 
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