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Hey guys :hello: - I have a small problem with the lambda sensor on my 2006 10r.

Bike started displaying error 67 - damaged sensor heaters, wiring open or short. I changed the sensor which appeared faulty, turned the ignition on - no error. Started it, no error. Put the bike back together, took it out for a test and, after a few meters, light started flashing again :surprise:. Stopped, restarted engine and light was not there again. It appears that it is not recognising a mistake until you drive off. Any ideas?

Or should I just get this http://www.ebay.co.uk/…/Oxygen-lambda-o2-sens…/251641737545… - in which case, how can I ensure that the wiring stays OPEN so it doesn't take away from the bike's performance? And are there any drawbacks of using an eliminator? Do I need to do some additional setting up after fitting one to ensure optimum fuel usage and performance? :confused:

Also, I am a newbie to dealing with things like this, so would appreciate as detailed explanation as possible :grin2:

Thanks in advance.
 

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I don't want to steal this thread, I just have the same issue. Bought the bike with blinking FI light, I thought that blinks for the exhaust servo (as I have 4-2-1). Cleaned the connectors used dielectric grease on them, light went away... for at least 5 min ride... Then it came back. PITA to tear down the side fairings so I left it alone. BUT later in somewhat warmer weather the FI light gone - like no error - but when this happened and I accelerated harder then around & above 5000 rpm the engine almost stalled like when jetting too lean on a carb bike. Later the FI light came back, and the issue gone, it accepted throttle like it should... Then I removed the fuse hoping that it would make closed loop impossible and also this fall on its face issue.
Looks like faulty O2 can cause nasty issues when the ECU tries to go closed loop.

Not soon but I will have the O2 eliminated via ECU flash, and/or to buy the Woolich ECU flash kit with wideband tuning, then report back. (but first I have to solve yesterday's issue when the fuel pump suddenly stopped to work, then not primed, then primed in a weird way and no start, then started and immediately stalled, then stalled blipping the throttle, then all gone and it worked like nothing happened.. and all of this after a 220 kms ride on the way home; but on the first km the FI light also went off even with no fuse for the O2, and the engine couldn't accept the throttle, then after a few tries the light came back, issue gone and arrived home without any fueling issues)
 

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Since I had this problem and sorted it out, anyone who checks this topic for solution:
1. buy O2 sensor eliminator(s) - sometimes the ECU throws the error code, but the bike ran normally with them, and after restart the FI code was gone.
2. buy preferably new O2 sensor(s) - doesn't matter if a later model's sensor if it's the same kind (narrowband, and the signal voltage range in the manual is about the same), but make sure the length of the cable for the replacement at least the same or more than oem's. I had an error code once with new sensors too, but it was a single time in 1-2k kms since I installed them.
Disconnecting, removing fuse(s), leaving as they are (bad) can cause very annoying kind of problems (HARD fuel injection shut off @ 65 MPH /110 km/h), so 1 or 2 is a must - at least in my case.
O2 cannot be eliminated via ECU flash in gen2, I asked Woolich Racing.
Third route could be swapping the ECU to US or other standalone ECU, but it's complicated because wiring of the US and EU models differ.
 

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For 06/07:
Just a word of caution, the o2 eliminators only function is to remove the FI/code.
The ecu doesn`t like the constant voltage from the eliminators and will start adding fuel to trigger a response when running in closed loop. (5th-6th gear steady part-throttle)
1-4th gear will work normal, but steady cruising in the closed loop range in 5/6th will run erratic and way rich, afr in the low 11`s, to the point of dropping rpms and slowing down.
 
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