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Discussion Starter #1
I am wanting to convert my 2007 ZX10 into a dedicated drag bike for NHRA Pro-Bike class. I am having a hard time finding parts for it. Does anyone know where to find these parts.

1: Fairings (drag race specific) I am looking for a rear fairing that drops the seat and has the skirts that cover the dead space caused by extending it. I am also needing to gain space for electronics since the 10 has very little room.

2: Wheelie bar kit for the ZX10. I may have to fabricate one but if there was one specifically for it, that would be easier.

3: Clutch I want to be able to drive back to the pits but will the stock clutch set-up work with a slick/whellie bar? Most people run sliders but require a tow back to the pits.

4: Any other parts that would be recommended. I will be getting the gadgets IE delay box, launch limiter. I allready have air shifter.
 

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damn 6 up on the rear thats a lot -2/+2 should work a little better and try schnitz motorsports for some of the other parts
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Try catalyst for the tail(dont think they make an extended one but the supersport one comes with the side covers and you could talk to them about extending it), tim hayes for the clutch www.haysmachineworks.com and if you use tims clutch you shouldnt need wheelie bars just make it long and put a good shock and tire on it. :thumbsup:
Thanks. Catalyst said that they would not extend one but did say that I could use there +6" for the 04-05 if I ran low exhaust IE sidewinder etc. I also found oppracing.com and I e-mailed them about extending the ones they carry. We will see if the will and how much. I will check out tims clutch later. I just put my Blaster motor back in and was starting to break it in.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
damn 6 up on the rear thats a lot -2/+2 should work a little better and try schnitz motorsports for some of the other parts
LOL I know. I origanally bought -1 +2 but they sent me the wrong sprockets and the guy doing the work on my bike had the titanium +6 laying around and gave it to me for free, so, I went with it. He said it would be close to the -1 +2. The bike tops out & 156 in 6th gear now. I wonder how that compares to someone with the -1 +2?
 

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tims clutch is a work of art. he has the best customer service you will find. i have heard nothing but good things about tim and his clutch.:thumbsup:
 

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Dont mess wit White Ninja
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fastkawi739
close to the -1 +2. The bike tops out & 156 in 6th gear now. I wonder how that compares to someone with the -1 +2?


Very close ran a -1/+2 and on gps got 161 vs the wind and 165 with the wind...Your not much off...
 

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Thats just pure not knowing what your doing there. If you have a slider or multistage setup properly it will not do that. I have never even come close to looping a bike like that at the track. that lever on the left clip-on is the clutch and it must be used. theres 500 hp turbo bike with no bars running low 7 second passes without bars.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thats just pure not knowing what your doing there. If you have a slider or multistage setup properly it will not do that. I have never even come close to looping a bike like that at the track. that lever on the left clip-on is the clutch and it must be used. theres 500 hp turbo bike with no bars running low 7 second passes without bars.
I know alot of extension and a good suspension tune can allow one to go dam fast. My concern is with consistancy. I just feel the slick/wheelie bar combination would better suit me in the consistincy department. I am extended now and have to slip the hell out of the clutch to get mid1.5 60ft. I know people are in the 1.3-1.4 range but that is what I get. I am pretty consistant with that but have had to dial soft and get good at driving the stripe. This has worked well in the street bike class but when I race in pro-bike it is a little more difficult when racing bikes that have 20-40 mph on me.
 

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I know alot of extension and a good suspension tune can allow one to go dam fast. My concern is with consistancy. I just feel the slick/wheelie bar combination would better suit me in the consistincy department. I am extended now and have to slip the hell out of the clutch to get mid1.5 60ft. I know people are in the 1.3-1.4 range but that is what I get. I am pretty consistant with that but have had to dial soft and get good at driving the stripe. This has worked well in the street bike class but when I race in pro-bike it is a little more difficult when racing bikes that have 20-40 mph on me.
I understand but with a properly tuned slider or even a multistage it will not wheelie. the bar bikes that run pro et mirock have much different transmission gearing than a new sportbike. Thats why you will see a bar bike run 8.30 at 150 when a zx-10 can go 9.0 at 150. the bar bikes front half great but they are out of stuff by the 1/8. to get a 10 to leave like that(with the tall first gears these bikes have) you would need to put crazy gearing on it and then it will be in the limiter before 1000 ft. The inconsistant part is the clutch release, as long as your using the hand clutch you will probably not be as consistant as you want it to be. your probably consistant for a few passes then all of sudden it decides to go faster or slower. Its all about clutch control thats why most guys in the pro classes have a slider, it takes you out of the picture. I guess what Im getting at is putting a bar and slick on it will not make you more consistant if your still using a hand clutch and if you go to a slider you shouldnt need the bar. :thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I understand but with a properly tuned slider or even a multistage it will not wheelie. the bar bikes that run pro et mirock have much different transmission gearing than a new sportbike. Thats why you will see a bar bike run 8.30 at 150 when a zx-10 can go 9.0 at 150. the bar bikes front half great but they are out of stuff by the 1/8. to get a 10 to leave like that(with the tall first gears these bikes have) you would need to put crazy gearing on it and then it will be in the limiter before 1000 ft. The inconsistant part is the clutch release, as long as your using the hand clutch you will probably not be as consistant as you want it to be. your probably consistant for a few passes then all of sudden it decides to go faster or slower. Its all about clutch control thats why most guys in the pro classes have a slider, it takes you out of the picture. I guess what Im getting at is putting a bar and slick on it will not make you more consistant if your still using a hand clutch and if you go to a slider you shouldnt need the bar. :thumbsup:

Thanks for the input. The "Hays" clutch is the slider that you run. Is that on the Busa in your avatar? What kind of 60' times do you run? I also noticed that you are wheelieing in the pic witch is what I want to avoid or at least control somewhat. And do you just dump the clutch with the slider or do you still have to slip it. I would like to "take myself out of the equasion" so to speak.

I can turn a wrench and have changed about five clutches in my bike so far. Is the slider hard to install? Is it hard to tune? I will ask the Hays people before I buy but it seems that you are willing to share your experiance and I appreciate it.
 

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Thanks for the input. The "Hays" clutch is the slider that you run. Is that on the Busa in your avatar? What kind of 60' times do you run? I also noticed that you are wheelieing in the pic witch is what I want to avoid or at least control somewhat. And do you just dump the clutch with the slider or do you still have to slip it. I would like to "take myself out of the equasion" so to speak.

I can turn a wrench and have changed about five clutches in my bike so far. Is the slider hard to install? Is it hard to tune? I will ask the Hays people before I buy but it seems that you are willing to share your experiance and I appreciate it.
I am not running it. my gsxr in the avatar was a hand clutch. I ran a mtc multistage in my zx-10 that i could just throw the clutch away. the real nice part about tims clutch is that it can be converted from a slider to a lockup and back just by moving things around on the clutch. you can also use the clutch handle in slider mode. The other nice thing about it is that it locks up by engine rpms(similar to what a prostock bike clutch would do). The mtc and most other lockups have the lock up springs on the outer clutch plate meaning it will lockup only if there is wheel speed making it much harder to get it right. You will not get it to lock up until the bike starts moving. Tims clutch is the best thing going out there right now. If I would have kept my bike I would have run tims clutch for consistency reasons. I have been bracket racing for 19 years, I started in cars for 16 of them. I didnt like bracket racing the bike as much because of the same reasons, I couldnt be as consistent as I wanted to be on it.(and the payouts for bike racing suck compared to cars) check out tims web site and read up on it and if interested give him a call and Im sure from what I have heard about him he will spend the time to answer any questions you have. hope this is not too confusing and helps a little.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I didnt like bracket racing the bike as much because of the same reasons, I couldnt be as consistent as I wanted to be on it.(and the payouts for bike racing suck compared to cars) check out tims web site and read up on it and if interested give him a call and Im sure from what I have heard about him he will spend the time to answer any questions you have. hope this is not too confusing and helps a little.
It definitely helps....... The payouts do suck compared to cars but I have enjoyed racing the bike more and have won two point’s championships and a Wally on it. I have raced two other home built drag cars and numerous sportsman street/strip cars before and did OK but I never won as much as I have on this 10. I also have met allot of good friends through racing bikes. Bike people just have a better comrodarry then car guys IMO.
 

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It definitely helps....... The payouts do suck compared to cars but I have enjoyed racing the bike more and have won two point’s championships and a Wally on it. I have raced two other home built drag cars and numerous sportsman street/strip cars before and did OK but I never won as much as I have on this 10. I also have met allot of good friends through racing bikes. Bike people just have a better comrodarry then car guys IMO.
I'm the opposite I had two track championships and 8 other top tens in the cars. I was able to pay for all of my racing with the winnings when I raced cars. motorcycles, Ive gone rounds and won money but it always seemed like I would have the tree and then the bike would either pickup or slowdown. Bike drag racers don't seem to dislike you because you win a lot like the car guys do so I would have to agree with the comradery part. however you decide to go good luck to you.
 
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