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Discussion Starter #1
Hello, I was recently about to install a Bazzaz ZFi with Quickshifter unit into my 2011 ZX10 (non ABS) that I also recently bought second hand.

From what I know of the bike previously the owner before me had a Bazzaz Quickshifter installed (quick shifter only no ZFi fuel controller).

What I have had done to it so far is removed the AIS (and installed the jumper) and Exhaust servo as well. Also I had the ECU reflash done (aggressive flash without fuel map).

Now that I am about to install my Bazzaz unit I realized there is already a wire cut on the first (blue and black connector) ECU harness. The wire is cut, and a crimp connector attached to the end of it. The other half of the red/green wire (the part that continues down the harness) is just left there cut and doing nothing. The connector side of the red/green wire is grounded to the frame all the way around the other side of the airbox almost by the shock where the other big ground connector is on the frame.

Can anyone please help and let me know what is this wire?
It's the red/green wire in the big blue/black ECU harness connector.
Also curious if this has been cut and grounded, what does that do now?
Will my bazzaz and ECU flash work with this wire modified this way (I haven't even tested the ECU flash yet)?
Could this be from the previous Quickshifter installation the previous pwner had in there or is it for something else?

I have attached some pictures.
Sorry for so many questions I'm just worried this might cause an issue and really appreciate any help and info on this. Thanks in advance for looking at this post and any feedback and assistance.

This pic shows the harness and where the wire is cut and the rest of the wire they installed that runs down the side of the airbox to the ground


Here is a closer look at the red/green wire


This is where they added a crimp to run the wire that gets grounded over on the frame.


This shows the wire where it continues to ground onto the frame


Another pic closer up of the wire that goes over to ground on the frame
 

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That my friend is the wire mod...

You will have to reverse it in order for the flash to take effect. The Neutral map overrides everything in the ECU.

Basically you'll have to find the other end of the wire they cut (hopefully they had the foresight to cap it and wrap it with red or some other visually attractive color of electrical tape) to make it easier. Once you do find the other end, unground the ring terminal from the frame and connect the wire coming from the black ECU connector to the end that was originally attached.
 

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That's the "wire mod" to trick the ecu to remove some of the restrictions. A search on here will explain it better. Since your ecu's flashed you can reconnect the wire into the ecu. But please solder it. Whoever did that was working in their backyard with a hatchet.

Damnit I'm a slow typer.
 

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Since your ecu's flashed you can reconnect the wire into the ecu. But please solder it. Whoever did that was working in their backyard with a hatchet.
Yes, yes, yes. 1000x yes.

Strip the wires, tin them, make hook "terminals" in each end of the freshly tinned wires and hook them together, heat up the joint, apply the solder, check your solder fillets, clean the solder joint with isopropyl alcohol, heat shrink it, and make a few loops with electrical tape.

Sounds like alot, but the more you do now, the less likely of a chance you have of air getting in there with moisture from humidity, rain, etc, and oxidizing the copper wiring which will lead to bigger problems.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the quick replies guys.
Okay so nothing to do with the old quick shifter but definitely needs to be reversed based on what you guys have enlightened me on.
I'll read up more on the wire mod.
But either way i have to do some wire surgery it seems.
Don't have soldering iron but will go buy one.
Any recommendation on the type of solder to use?
Thanks again guys.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Oh sorry one more question, what's a hook terminal Archer?
I was just gonna solder and shrink wrap and embalm in electrical tape.
Also there is so little wire left to use hope I can do this other wise might need to add a piece of wire to connect them again?
 

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Thanks for the quick replies guys.
Okay so nothing to do with the old quick shifter but definitely needs to be reversed based on what you guys have enlightened me on.
I'll read up more on the wire mod.
But either way i have to do some wire surgery it seems.
Don't have soldering iron but will go buy one.
Any recommendation on the type of solder to use?
Thanks again guys.
Nope absolutely nothing to do with the quickshifter. Basically what the wire mod does is tricks the bike into thinking it's running in neutral. How? It grounds out the clutch switch so the bike thinks the clutch is pulled in. What this does, is tricks the ECU into running the neutral map which is far from optimal (in my opinion) and people get flash like results without an ECU flash. More info can be found here on Ivan's page: http://www.ivansperformanceproducts.com/11zx10r2.htm

But yeah, you do have some wire surgery on the horizon as well as some exploratory surgery trying to find the other cut end of that wire.

Any cheapo soldering iron will work. Inside I have a pretty elaborate rework setup for micro-electronics which would be overkill for what your doing. I also keep a small one in the garage for wiring work that serves it's purpose well. Go to a Radio Shack (if you have them up there) and get yourself a basic 15W soldering iron and any solder that is rosin core. Diameter really isn't important in this application. But if it's .032 that'd be good. Here let me find you some links on Radioshack.

Here you go... they actually sell a kit. I'd be leary of the solder as I've seen some shit solder in these kits.
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062758

I'd personally just grab a stand alone iron like this:
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062728
And a spool like this:
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062711
Also some heat shrink... 3/16 should be sufficient. If you don't have a heat gun grab the girl's blow dryer :)
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=12656242
And finally some electrical tape if you don't already have some.
 

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Hook terminal you ask?

Basically tin the wire first after stripping it. Place a small bead of solder on the tip of the iron which will act as your heat bridge. Let it warm up a little bit and then take a strand of solder and with the iron stationary, run the solder up (or down) the length of the exposed wire. You'll see the wire almost "suck up" the solder; this is called tinning. You don't want too much just enough so you can still see the strands but they look almost like they were dipped in silver paint. Err on the light side if you're worried.

After that take a hemostats, tweezers, etc and clamp the end of the tinned wire. Then slowly rotate it back making a hook. Do it to both wires. Here is an example; the one on the left:


That's a hook terminal. Do that on both sides and put a small piece of solder on the iron tip as a heat bridge and place it where the two hooks meet, grab your solder and touch it to the hooks. You'll see the solder melt and the wires join together. Let them cool then clean it off with isopropyl alcohol(<--- muy importante that you clean them off). Slide your heat shrink over, heat it up, then put a few wraps of electrical tape on there.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks so much for all the info and detailed instructions to repair the wire Archer!
Really appreciate the help.

Will post up how it goes after get all my soldering equipment and compete the repair.

Thanks again! :)
 

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Thanks so much for all the info and detailed instructions to repair the wire Archer!
Really appreciate the help.

Will post up how it goes after get all my soldering equipment and compete the repair.

Thanks again! :)
No problem. If the instructions aren't clear, you need further clarification or just have a general uncertainty, let me know. I will do a "how-to" video on how to complete the repair.
 

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Im actually reversing the wire mod I did to my 10r aswell, just wondering what the others on here think. would I be ok just capping the wires back together without solder? The wires are far from eachother and cant get them to touch without adding wire to it. So just wondering if caps will work?
 

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Im actually reversing the wire mod I did to my 10r aswell, just wondering what the others on here think. would I be ok just capping the wires back together without solder? The wires are far from eachother and cant get them to touch without adding wire to it. So just wondering if caps will work?
Was going to respond when I got the chance. Just read your other thread; Dricked hit the nail on the head; use a longer piece of wire to act as a bridge and connect the two pieces.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
So I finally got around to fixing this wire and removing the "wire mod".
Don't like the fact that my main harness has been butchered but have done my best to fix it up.

I tined both ends of the wires when re-connecting and also used an extra piece of wire to bridge the gap since not much wire left over.
Unfortunately I didn't have the same gauge wire so used on slightly bigger.
Since not a big section hoping not going to be an issue for resistance and what not.

Here are some pics of the repair work.
I did what you said ZX10RArcher and did the hook connection of the wire ends and soldered them also. I didn't have shrink wrap or heat gun so just used plenty of electrical tape.

Thanks again for posting on what this issue was and also the very details steps on how to solder it back.





 

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Going to do it too

after riding my 2011 with wire mod since I bought new, I finaly decid to do the great step & send my ECU to ZX10RArcher.

Seem that I will have some welding to do because when I did it, I had use male/female link so I only disconect the gronded wire ti connect to the live one.
Are you really, really sure it is abslotly necessary to do welding?

Question: what would be the symptome if the removal of the wire mode would not work for any reason?

Salutations
Ray
 

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Discussion Starter #16
after riding my 2011 with wire mod since I bought new, I finaly decid to do the great step & send my ECU to ZX10RArcher.

Seem that I will have some welding to do because when I did it, I had use male/female link so I only disconect the gronded wire ti connect to the live one.
Are you really, really sure it is abslotly necessary to do welding?

Question: what would be the symptome if the removal of the wire mode would not work for any reason?

Salutations
Ray
Don't know the symptom but I fixed the wire and all is good.
I've tested the bike very briefly on track and it's an animal!!!
This is also thanks for ZXArcher's ECU flash which i am so happy I decided to do.
 
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