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Discussion Starter #1
In the past couple of days my 07 has been acting up. Doesn't want to idle, keep having to adjust it. When pulling the clutch in it dies sometimes if i don't rev it a little to catch it.

Fast forward to this morning. Start it to go to work. Headlights were aimed at the house and I noticed a slight bright, dim, bright, dim pattern. Drove to work no issues. On my way home it was about 90* outside. Sitting at a light bike was sitting at 207*. Started idling erratic and died. Noticed a puff of smoke from the left fork area. Didn't really want to start but I revved it and got going. parked at home, seemed to idle fine. Pulled the plastic cover off by the fork and made sure nothing was burnt or messed up on my wiring. Looked fine.

My guess is, the stator or rectifier is starting to take a shit. Probably looses voltage at idle, fuel pump slows down and she idles bad or dies. Stator and rectifier is about $300. Really hoping to make a track day on oct 6... kind of a bummer.

Any ideas/suggestions?

P.S. the bike is coming up on 13k miles. All original electronics. Also has power commander 3.

Thanks, Millhouse
 

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Start with the battery first and load test it. If its good then it could be stator/rectifer. It could also be your efi unplug the power commander and see if the problem persists.
 

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It would seem that it's a voltage issue. If the charging system craps out, the bike will run completely off the battery, but only for a limited time. The first place to look is the alternator. It's highly likely you don't need both the rectifier and stator. Troubleshoot the problem and figure out what you need.

The temperature is normal, so forget about that.

But the erratic idle should be looked at as well. How erratic? What's the variation from peak to trough? It should be idling around 1150rpm so if it's dropping below that a significant amount, that's likely why the lights are dimming.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Start with the battery first and load test it. If its good then it could be stator/rectifer. It could also be your efi unplug the power commander and see if the problem persists.
Battery is brand new yuasa just bought it 2 months ago. Could still be bad I suppose but unlikely. I will test the stator and rectifier first then try the powercommander if those check out.

It would seem that it's a voltage issue. If the charging system craps out, the bike will run completely off the battery, but only for a limited time. The first place to look is the alternator. It's highly likely you don't need both the rectifier and stator. Troubleshoot the problem and figure out what you need.

The temperature is normal, so forget about that.

But the erratic idle should be looked at as well. How erratic? What's the variation from peak to trough? It should be idling around 1150rpm so if it's dropping below that a significant amount, that's likely why the lights are dimming.
I usually set it to idle around 1500. It will stay right there for a while then it with bounce between 1500 and 1000 for a few seconds and die. Or Ill set it at 1500, next time I stop its at 1000, next time 1250, and I keep adjusting it back to 1500 but it won't stay there. The reason I have it idle a little high is because if I set it to 1100 it stalls when I pull the clutch in and chop the throttle.

I need to find the "how to" on testing each one and check it out. Thanks for the quick replies fellas
 

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I usually set it to idle around 1500. It will stay right there for a while then it with bounce between 1500 and 1000 for a few seconds and die. Or Ill set it at 1500, next time I stop its at 1000, next time 1250, and I keep adjusting it back to 1500 but it won't stay there. The reason I have it idle a little high is because if I set it to 1100 it stalls when I pull the clutch in and chop the throttle.

I need to find the "how to" on testing each one and check it out. Thanks for the quick replies fellas
The idle should not be that high and shouldn't vary that much. You've got issues there that you need to get fixed as well. Just increasing the idle speed because it dies isn't a solution. It should idle stable at around 1100-1200rpm after it's warm. It could be a vacuum leak, faulty injectors, fuel pump/filter issue, etc. But that should be resolved as well.
 

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check your map sensor, ecu uses map sensor for idle and low load/low rpm operation. Also tbs out of sync would make your idle vary as well. Check all 4 cyl with a vacuum gauge.

Failed charging system can either stop charging or produce high voltage and that will fry most of the electronics. I'd have that tested and fixed before you get your idle issue taken care off.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
I never had an idle problem until two days ago. I could let it idle for days if I wanted and it wouldn't jump around or stall. I had the idle set a little high before just because on the rare occasion if I wound it up to 8-9k or higher and just pulled the clutch in and chopped the throttle it would not catch it and stall. The varying idle speed and stalling from idle just started a couple days ago. It runs fine everywhere else in the rpm range.
 

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In the manual it says not to test the rectifier with a standard meter. Will it harm it or do I have to take it to a dealer?
If you're checking the voltage output, any meter will work. If you're doing a continuity check then some meters can put out too much current and damage the wiring. It's not likely, but could happen. Just do a voltage test on it and there's no need to take it to the dealer.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
To do a voltage test I would have to have a good stator I'm assuming. Would hooking up my new stator to a potentially bad rectifier burn it up again if the rectifier is bad? Or will just running it long enough to do the test not be enough to hurt it?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I tested the rectifier, It was within range everywhere on the chart where the higher resistance was specified. Anywhere on the chart that was either 0~5 ohms or 5~20ohms my meter said Infiniti. My meter is a very cheap DMM so Im going to take it to work tonight and have the electricians test it with a higher quality meter. Im figuring the rectifier is bad too though. Only $300 to replace both...
 

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You do a voltage check on the stator. Run the bike with the stator hooked up and the output should be about 46 volts AC at 4000rpm. And it should go up and down with engine speed. Then plug it into the rectifier and measure the output of the rectifier. It should be about 14 volts DC constant. If you're not getting the proper voltages at the proper points, you'll know which is bad.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
You do a voltage check on the stator. Run the bike with the stator hooked up and the output should be about 46 volts AC at 4000rpm. And it should go up and down with engine speed. Then plug it into the rectifier and measure the output of the rectifier. It should be about 14 volts DC constant. If you're not getting the proper voltages at the proper points, you'll know which is bad.
I already did the voltage check on the stator as I said earlier in the thread. It put out only 29V at 4500 rpm and is burned so I know its bad. The service manual says it should put out 60V at 4000rpm. But I have seen other guys say the rectifier went bad and took the stator out with it. Thats why I want to confirm that my rectifier is good before spend $160 on a new stator just to have it burn up again because of a bad rectifier.
 

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I already did the voltage check on the stator as I said earlier in the thread. It put out only 29V at 4500 rpm and is burned so I know its bad. The service manual says it should put out 60V at 4000rpm. But I have seen other guys say the rectifier went bad and took the stator out with it. Thats why I want to confirm that my rectifier is good before spend $160 on a new stator just to have it burn up again because of a bad rectifier.
Yes, you shouldn't just go replacing parts for no reason - which is what has happened in most of those other threads that you've read. It's very unlikely that the rectifier would cause the stator to burn up and vice versa. If you've got the stator diagnosed as bad, replace it. Obviously the rectifier isn't bad enough that it would cause the the stator to completely short out, as it's just putting out low voltage. The rectifier only takes in the alternator current, it doesn't have any output back to the alternator. So unless you had some sort of internal short in the rectifier that caused the stator windings to short together, it's a pretty safe bet you've found the problem.

Replace the stator and don't worry about it.
 

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Could you help me my bike just shut off on me when I came to a stop and I started it and moved it to the driveway and it turned of agian so I waited two hours and I started it and let it idle for 20 sec then it turned off, and wouldn't start ...when it turned of it died like I had just hit the kill switch.....it sat for some time that was the first real hour ride . All the gagues work and starter turns but motor won't fire
 
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