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Discussion Starter #1
Hey there,

I've got some handling problems with my '04 ZX10. After a certain lean angle she goes from feeling stable and planted to just downright floaty and very vague. I still think this was part of the equation to my low side at that track last September.

A buddy of mine took the bike out after the crash to see if everything was straight. He is a bike mechanic and an ex racer, so I trust his input. He said she was dead stable at 150+, but handles downright weird. I've ridden the bike on the street since and this feeling persists. I thought it was in my head, but my Speed Triple handles just fine from scraping one peg to the other.

The suspension is sprung and valved to my weight and set up for the track. Everything else on the bike is stock sans the GPR steering stabilizer and ZX14 brakes.

When I brought my old suspension to the shop the guy said I had a ZX6 shock on the back. So in my mind there is a possibility that I have a ZX6 lower dog bone, or whatever you want to call it, mount on the bike. What is the difference between the ZX10 one and ZX6 one?

Second, how much of a shim should I use on the back? I think I have about 20mm now.

Should I have the steering stabilizer rebuilt after that crash?

I really don't trust this bike at the moment, because that last crash hurt after some ripped knee ligaments. I would like to get this figured out since I love this bike and don't want to get rid of it any time soon.

Thanks,
-D
 

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Discussion Starter #3
^^^Thanks. That is one of my fears. I think it's time to set my project bike aside and rip into the ZX to see if there are any cracks in the frame.
 

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The thing with the ZX6 swap is it raises the rear a few mm for better iniatial turn in i believe. i know that mine was acting weird a while back after i had done some work on the front end and OR10R sent me this video that helped alot and fixed my problem.i know it seems like something very dumb and simple BUT it seems to be a slight issue at times with the 1st gen. hope it helps and that it's NOT a tweaked frame!!

http://www.onthethrottle.com/howto/performance-upgrades-proper-front-wheel-installation/
 

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Discussion Starter #5
The thing with the ZX6 swap is it raises the rear a few mm for better iniatial turn in i believe. i know that mine was acting weird a while back after i had done some work on the front end and OR10R sent me this video that helped alot and fixed my problem.i know it seems like something very dumb and simple BUT it seems to be a slight issue at times with the 1st gen. hope it helps and that it's NOT a tweaked frame!!

http://www.onthethrottle.com/howto/performance-upgrades-proper-front-wheel-installation/
Thanks TMY. I do this every time I take the front wheel off. Loosen the pinch bolts and pump the front a few times so the front forks move to their proper location, than tighten. But it will not hurt to do it again. Got to keep reminding myself to start with simple things first.

I've already got the rear raised with a shim, but I just might take it out and see what she does without it.
 

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Just hoping it's nothing major man......there's no chance that the forks got tweaked or anything right? there's nothing worse then an ill handling bike!! except maybe not knowing why she's acting that way?
 

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Maybe also check that the forkyokes? The ones holding the forklegs aren't tightened too much. That could also prevent normal fork travel.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Just hoping it's nothing major man......there's no chance that the forks got tweaked or anything right? there's nothing worse then an ill handling bike!! except maybe not knowing why she's acting that way?
Me too. The bike suffered almost no damage at all. Rashed bottom and mid fairing and that is it. Still dead stable in a straight line and not the smallest of wiggles if you take your hands off the bar at 120+.

I'll take the shim out of the rear and take all of my tools with me for the first track day and see what shakes out.

Thanks for the heads up Rune. I torqued them to spec last time I put them in, but I'll re torque them just to make sure. I always torque everything to spec, but who knows.
 

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Me too. The bike suffered almost no damage at all. Rashed bottom and mid fairing and that is it. Still dead stable in a straight line and not the smallest of wiggles if you take your hands off the bar at 120+.

I'll take the shim out of the rear and take all of my tools with me for the first track day and see what shakes out.

Thanks for the heads up Rune. I torqued them to spec last time I put them in, but I'll re torque them just to make sure. I always torque everything to spec, but who knows.
No problem hope you get it to run right!
Do you have a torque spec list? I had one for my old bike. But I need one for the Gen 1.
 

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20mm shim in the back? You mean between the shock and frame? Sounds like you could have the rear jacked up too high and you have a balance issue. Too much weight on the front tire and not enough on the rear.
 

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20mm shim in the back? You mean between the shock and frame?
+1
Seems like most add about 6 to 10mm to the rear. 20mm seems like a lot, but if your shock is an off size maybe it isn't? You could check Swingarm angle to see if it's way out.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
When was the last time your suspension was serviced in miles?
About 1,000 miles ago. Full rebuild with springs and valving.

20mm shim in the back? You mean between the shock and frame? Sounds like you could have the rear jacked up too high and you have a balance issue. Too much weight on the front tire and not enough on the rear.
+1
Seems like most add about 6 to 10mm to the rear. 20mm seems like a lot, but if your shock is an off size maybe it isn't? You could check Swingarm angle to see if it's way out.
Yup, between shock and frame. I might be exagerating on the size of the washer, but I'll take it out completely and see what that does. I'll measure the swing arm angle and adjust accordingly.

Thanks for the suggestions.
 

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About 1,000 miles ago. Full rebuild with springs and valving.





Yup, between shock and frame. I might be exagerating on the size of the washer, but I'll take it out completely and see what that does. I'll measure the swing arm angle and adjust accordingly.

Thanks for the suggestions.
2004 ZX works best in the 340-344 shock eye to eye range, stock is 338 so the biggest shim you would need 6mm if your at 20mm your tucking your swing-arm, and plowing the front through the turn.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
2004 ZX works best in the 340-344 shock eye to eye range, stock is 338 so the biggest shim you would need 6mm if your at 20mm your tucking your swing-arm, and plowing the front through the turn.
Thanks ZX10Racer. I remember talking to you about this when I first joined the site and was going to try and find that thread again. I appreciate the input. :thumbsup:

I am starting to suspect this might be the culprit. Rode the bike yesterday and it turns in extremely easily, much more so than my Speed Triple with wide, dirt bike bars.

Any idea on how a ZX6, bottom shock mount, or whatever you call that thing, would affect anything? Because I think I might have that one on the bike since it came with a 636 rear shock. I'll see if I can find some numbers on it and see what it's from.
 

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Thanks ZX10Racer. I remember talking to you about this when I first joined the site and was going to try and find that thread again. I appreciate the input. :thumbsup:

I am starting to suspect this might be the culprit. Rode the bike yesterday and it turns in extremely easily, much more so than my Speed Triple with wide, dirt bike bars.

Any idea on how a ZX6, bottom shock mount, or whatever you call that thing, would affect anything? Because I think I might have that one on the bike since it came with a 636 rear shock. I'll see if I can find some numbers on it and see what it's from.
if you have the 636 lower link IMO take it off, people saw that on the Attack bikes and thought it was a good idea but Attack had a completely different swing- arm pivot angle on their bikes.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
if you have the 636 lower link IMO take it off, people saw that on the Attack bikes and thought it was a good idea but Attack had a completely different swing- arm pivot angle on their bikes.
Much appreciated Racer. I'll get under her and see what I have tonight.
 

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Much appreciated Racer. I'll get under her and see what I have tonight.
I used to know the # stamped on the 636 link but I forgot. maybe some here will know
 
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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
I used to know the # stamped on the 636 link but I forgot. maybe some here will know
I looked at mine last night and comparing it to the ones sold on Ebay it should be a ZX10 one. See picks below.

I also measured the shim on the back. I way exaggerated since the shim is at about 9mm. I did not have time to check the swing arm angle though, but will do it soon.

ZX10:



636 Link:

 

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Discussion Starter #20
A little update:

Put the front up in the air and loosened the triple tree clamps pinch bolts and the axle. Lubricated all bolts with a bit of clean motor oil and torqued everything to spec. She feels much better now. Thanks for all the suggestions and guidance. She is back to normal once more.

Thanks,
-D
 
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