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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Grabby, sticky clutch? Notchy shifting?....Do this:

Here you go guys, work currently in progress, pics coming as I take them:
My clutch doesn't like to disengage(engage, for you sticklers about how a clutch works(when the clutch is engaged, no power is applied to the transmission, when disengaged power is sent to the trans. input shaft)) when I pull the lever to the bar in first gear. It's not a big deal as if I just blip the throttle is disengages, but it's a little bit bothersome. I assumed the friction plates were prolly installed dry at the factory, and upon disassembly I found that I was correct. Here goes:
1. remove lower fairing and disconnect clutch cable from lever and actuator(both ends). *If you leave the bike on the sidestand, there's no need to drain the oil for this. If you choose to do it with the bike on a wheel stand, drain the oil or you'll have a mess on the floor.
2. remove all the bolts(10 of them, 8mm heads) from the clutch cover and pull the cover off. This is what you'll see:







2. Next you need to remove the clutch center hub and springs(already removed in the second pic) using a 5mm allen wrench. Don't worry, the bolts are longer than the springs uncompressed length, so they won't jump out at you. pull the bolts, washers and springs, then pull the center plate like this:



3. After the cover is removed we need to remove all the plates, or clutch stack. Make a mental note or take a pic to show yourself that the first and last steel plates are different than the others and that the top fiber plate is different than the others. Do not reinstall the plates differently than they came out.(This really only applies to the bottom steel, top steel, and top friction plates, the rest are identical and interchangeable.
Here are the steel plates and cover with springs:


Here you can see some of the scoring/heat discoloration on the plates and that some of them were seized together:


Not really a big deal yet, and we'll have her fixed in just a bit.

4. Now that we have the clutch stack removed, we need to seperate the steel and friction plates into 2 piles(best to seperate them but leave them in the same order they came out). Now put the friction plates in a bucket of oil one at a time so they are all submerged and saturated with oil like this:



5. This step is completely up to you, but I'm anal and like things clean. Take the steel plates inside to the kitchen sink(make sure the wife is out of the house) and clean them with warm soapy water and a bit of steel wool or an SOS pad to get the friction plate material/oil/assembly lube off them. You're not trying to sand them dowy, or scuff them up, just clean them. once you go through all the plates dry them completely with a rag or paper towel. They should look something like this:



(Please note the proper bottle of kidney cleaning fluid is in use in the kitchen as well as the garage :)
You should let the clutch plates sit in the oil for a few hours or overnight.
6. Reassembly is the reverse process, just make sure you put good coat of oil on both sides of every plate(friction and steel) as you reinstall them, and don't forget that the clutch pushrod(black thing in the center of the clutch hub goes in before the clutch hub and hold down springs.

Enjoy.
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
Here is what you'll have when all the plates are reinstalled:



Just don't forget that the last friction plate installed gets installed one slot counter(anti?)clockwise from all the others like so:



Also, when you're putting the clutch hub back on, ti will only go all the way into the clutch basket if you have it aligned properly. It should slide all the way down and rest against the top friction plate. If it doesn't, take it out and rotate it one bolt hole and try again. there are only 2 ways it will seat all the way down, and those 2 places are 180 degrees away from each other. The hub has tabs on the inside that have to align with the back torque limiter spring tabs in the bottom of the basket:




This is (hopefully) what it looks like when you're finished reassembling the clutch basket. Please note, you should have NO spare parts!

Now generally I'm pretty fond of having spare parts after an operation because it means the bike is getting lighter, however, when the operation includes engine internals, spare parts are not usually a good thing! Enjoy guys.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Clutch fix results

Well, my intention with this was to get the clutch to release immediately when I pulled the lever, instead of hanging up momentarily before it disconnected the power at low(walking) speeds. An unexpected side benefit is an improvement in shifting. I've heard some guys say the 10 has a great transmission, that it's smooth and easy to shift. I've also heard guys complain about missed shifts and the tranny being notchy, and taking a lot of effort to make gear changes. Until this evening I would have had to agree with the latter. My bike shifted like shit. I never missed gears, but it took a lot of effort, and felt like shit. After tinkering with the clutch however, I have seen about a 1,000% improvement in shift engagement and feel. NOW I know what you guys were talking about when you said it shifts great. I've only put about 150 miles on it since I tore into the clutch, but DAMN! what an improvement. I can't beleive I waited 6k miles to do this. I'm enamored with the tranny now. All I can say is infuckingcredible!
Anybody with a bike that shifts hard, or feels notchy should really seriously consider looking into the clutch pack. It really is easy, requires exactly 4 tools to complete, and takes about 45 mins. to do the dis/reassembly, not counting the time you let the plates sit in fresh oil. All you need for tools is an 8mm socket, 4mm allen, 5mm allen and a 12mm wrench. it really is easy. If you need help or want to ask fany questions, feel free to post or PM me.
I remember the guy who spent his clutch in one day at the drag strip, and I'd be willing to bet, when the mechanic pulled his unit apart, it looked just like mine, only worse, and the culprit was prolly the same as me, dry plates.

Best bang for the buck mod? it was a 16t countershaft, but now I'm going to say fixing the clutch stack, all it cost me was 2 cans of Pepsi, a few ounces of Jim Beam, and a half quart of oil I already had.
 

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This is a great write up Gladding.

I wonder how many others are experiencing the same problem. I know I'm not, mine shifts like budda.
 

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Awesome write and fantastic pictures, I would have never thought taking the clutch apart could be as simple as you made it look, great job. If I ever have any problems shifting I know where to go, but for now she is silky smooth.
 

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Yea, Thanks for the writeup Gladding. Definitely good info for anyone having trouble or just wanting to inspect and clean.:thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Thanks guys:thumbsup:, I accepted the tranny for what it was before, now I'm in love with it. I'm still amazed at the diffference.
 

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I logged on today specifically to complain about my clutch hanging up. But now that you mention it, it is difficult to shift at times, which I can attribute to improper clutch disengagement since it appears to be hanging up. Not sure if it should be ME doeing the work though. I'll see what the dealer says...Then again, I've always wanted to understand clutches better
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Bollert, It's really easy to do, and I like doing it myself, that way I know it's done, and done right. Like I said, the process can be done in under 2 hrs, including beer time. If memory serves, you're right down the street from me. If you like I could come over and give you a hand, or we could do it here at my place(you have to bring the beer). Drop me a pm and let me know. If you don't see a 100% improvement, I'll reimburse you for the beer hehehehe. :)
 

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I wish you were right down the street from me, that would mean I wasn't stuck here in Missouri! I probably will take the plunge when the weather goes bad. Thanks!! Ted (St. Louis)
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Sorry about that, I was thinking you were over here. You can still send the beer.
 

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Hiya gladding24. What happened to all the pics? None of the links work. My clutch/shifting is pretty crappy so I want to follow this procedure but kinda would like the visuals to go along with the written description. Thanks

gladding24 said:
Here is what you'll have when all the plates are reinstalled:

http://www.vswrresolutions.com/existing/bike_pics/clutch/IM000490.JPG

Just don't forget that the last friction plate installed gets installed one slot counter(anti?)clockwise from all the others like so:

http://www.vswrresolutions.com/existing/bike_pics/clutch/IM000491.JPG
http://www.vswrresolutions.com/existing/bike_pics/clutch/IM000495.JPG
Also, when you're putting the clutch hub back on, ti will only go all the way into the clutch basket if you have it aligned properly. It should slide all the way down and rest against the top friction plate. If it doesn't, take it out and rotate it one bolt hole and try again. there are only 2 ways it will seat all the way down, and those 2 places are 180 degrees away from each other. The hub has tabs on the inside that have to align with the back torque limiter spring tabs in the bottom of the basket:
http://www.vswrresolutions.com/existing/bike_pics/clutch/IM000493.JPG

http://www.vswrresolutions.com/existing/bike_pics/clutch/IM000494.JPG

This is (hopefully) what it looks like when you're finished reassembling the clutch basket. Please note, you should have NO spare parts!
http://www.vswrresolutions.com/existing/bike_pics/clutch/IM000496.JPG
Now generally I'm pretty fond of having spare parts after an operation because it means the bike is getting lighter, however, when the operation includes engine internals, spare parts are not usually a good thing! Enjoy guys.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Sorry dude, something's gone haywire with my server, I'll get it straightened out as soon as I can.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
There you go guys, pics are back up
 

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Ahhh... server problems. That's why I didn't remember it having pics. I guess they weren't working when I read this thread a while back. :wink: Nice write up gladding. :eek:ccasion1
 

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Same things happening with my bike. I have to blip the gas every time to down shift. Even when the bikes just sitting cold, it wont budge when I pull in the cluch if it's in gear. One time I started it up cold and choke still on, I was pulling around the yard to go riding, and when I pulled in the cluch it kept pulling and slid on the transition to the concrete. I guess I paniced and grabed to much brake. Fixed now, thanks to State Farm, but it'll go on my record. Never thought of being Kawi's falt. Still seems kinda intimidating for me, but maybe with some help from a buddy that's a mechanic I'll get it done. If not, I still have the warranty.

 

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Discussion Starter #19
MWM, it really is an easy fix. Try it you won't be disappointed. One thing I didn't mention in the original post is that if the steel plates are glazed over, a little 600 grit sand paper will break the glaze off them and provide smoother engagement.
Also, when you first put it back together after soaking the friction plates the clutch wil feel strange for a few mins until the engine slings the excess oil out from between the plates, don't panic if the bike tries to 'walk' a little with the clutch lever in and the tranny in gear, this will go away after a few blocks.
 
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