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Im putting a turbo on my 04 zx10r should i use velocity racing are muzzy.Bikes motor is stock exept power commander i will be doing motor work later in the year
 

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Both kits are fine, same basic layout. I think the Muzzy welding is of better workmanship, and their header design is more efficient in my opinion. The BigCC kit is gorgeous, but over twice as much cost, though much more capable. I'd get the one you can get the best deal on.
 

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just read this what do u guys think

turbo info!!!
well, of sorts...
this is VERY basic, and theres ALOT to actually boosting you beloved bike, but heres an appetizer to the 9 course meal that is forced induction.

ok. since many ppl have an infatuation with boost and such, there's alot to consider when applying a turbo to a n.a. motor when doing a custom build.

here's some info that will lead you in the right direction if you want to really build your own custom, hand selected turbo setup.

-Motor size
-turbo size
-RPM range
-Type of use for machine (drag, salt flats, ect)
thers some more, but those are the Mr. Obvious ones

ok. your example! i'm going to use a 1000CC motor or this, cuz thats the example i have in my engineering literature. i can cheat like that.

the main thing is to size the correct turbo. you must find the specific amount of air flow needed.
for this we're gonna use
-1000CC motor
-4 stroke
-max RPM
-max boost

formulas you'll need:
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Pressure Ratio
basically the difference between your target boost level and atmosphereic pressure.


Pressure ratio=Pb+Pa/Pa

where....

Pa: atmospheric pressure
Pb: boost pressure

ex...10psi+14.7psi/14.7= 1.68

thats our ratio.... 1.68
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
(a rough constant figured mathmatecally..)

VE, or volumetric efficiency, which is basicaly how efficient the engine is. these are typical values

VE of a stock motor in good condition= 75%
VE of a high perf. tuned motor= 80%
VE of a full built race motor= 94%

we're gonna use 80% here... pretty common
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
displacement

Cubic inches=Cubic Centimeters/16.387

ex. 1000cc/16.387=61.02

so, 61.02 Cu.In. is our displacement
--------------------------------------------------------------------------

Density ratio

thats a fuction of a chart that is usually available from the turbo manufacturer and involves its effeciency, and cross referencing our previously found pressure ratio of 1.68 for this example.
this chart in front of me has the Density Ratio at 1.4 with a turbo efficiency of 70%
so, our DR is 1.4

CFM= [(DxCIDxMAX RPM)/1728]xVExDR


so now, with our numbers...


[(.5x61x10,000)/1728]x.80x1.40=197cfm

so there you have if. your literbike will need a turbo capable of delivering roughly 200CFM

you don't need a T88 for all that power!!

spooling up a big turbo is a waste. the A/R is the key to tuning the turbo to your specific application

the bigger the A/R the slower the wheel will spin.(on the exhaust, or "hot" side) the A/R is basically the cross sectional area of the exhaust inlet port.
it equals the incoming gas opening in the scroll, divided by the radius from the impeller shaft to the center of the opening. if you were to unwind the turbo's snail shape, you'd have an ice cream cone shape where the top of the cone would be the outlet (on the compressor side) and the tip of the cone would be where the inner passage of the turbo tapers to a point, and where boost actaully starts to form.

bigger motors typically can use a bigger A/R and get away with it.

a larger A/R wll gain top end and the expense of bottom end grunt. so a salt flat racer would love a larger A/R.

the smaller the A/R, (on the hot side) the faster the turbo will spool up, but it will work a little harder as well because the rotational speed is increased with a smaller A/R

remember... turbos typically see 150,000RPM!!!! sometimes more. theres turbos that spool to 230,000rpm at full boost.
the reason for the faster spinning is cuz the exhaust gas is forced closer to the center of the impeller (exhaust or "hot side") and forces the wheel to spin quicker. the tip speed of the fins is usually supersonic, which is where the whistle comes from. ya figure you got something spinning 150,000rpm, can you imagine the surface speed of that at the edge of the wheel?

the A/R is one of the most important parts of a well sized turbo system.

just remember.. Big A/R= top end madness and crappy response (like a .80 hotside A/R)
Little A/R= snappy response, great low and mid range... dies out on top end. (like a .25 hotside A/R)
My TDO4-L has a hot side A/R of .60 and should be a well rounded turbo for a 750. it flows more than enough - at [email protected] if anything, it may be too big... my motor only requires [email protected],000RPM... but oh well. it was free, so i'll try it anyway.


there bibles of turbo variables out there. wheel trim, bearing types, oiling issues, varible vane setups, intercooling, water cooled cartridges (turbo bearing housing), pressure drops in your piping, carb jetting/fuel injector sizes, ignition timing, and cams are just a few things that can make a perfectly sized turbo system suck, make it badass, or make a bad sizing job actually work for your bike.

well, i'm tired and am wrapping it up now. my info's sourced from a boost and spray application and engineering book, and i have alot more data if you desire such crap.

oh, by the way, for you carburated guys, you CAN run boost directly into the carb.. its o-ring sealed, and built to handle the slight boost thats made from the ram-air setup. now, the max bost most bikes will see in a ram-air is [email protected] kinda not the numbers you probably had in your head, but standard CVKs can handle 10psi all day long without modification.
 

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Yea,,, there are bibles of turbo info out there,,, and you know what,,,, until the last, lets say 10 years,,, guys would go by those bibles, but people are starting to realize you can do some things with sizing that were thought to be impossible before. The new gt series wheels that garret has have been known to flow 20-30 hp over there maps.
 

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Im putting a turbo on my 04 zx10r should i use velocity racing are muzzy.Bikes motor is stock exept power commander i will be doing motor work later in the year
The only thing I dont like about muzzys kit is it doesnt use an FMU for fuel control.(and there support sucks) They do it all in the pc. Which leads me to believe that the driveability on the muzzy kit will not be as good as the velocity kit. I think an FMU is a must on a small 6-8 psi turbo kit. Once you get into big boost its not the best way to go but at that time your either going to piggyback extra injectors with there own controller or use a standalone system.
 

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You can use a rising rate reg to ballpark tune it and then use the pcIII to lean it out... that is the safest way to go,, this way if the PCIII dies then it just goes rich and doesn't kill stuff. A stand alone is great if you really wanna be specific with your tuning,,, and they have data loggers built in to,,, There are a bunch of ways to do it,,, they all involve alot of cash,,, the end result is HP hahaha:thumbsup:
 
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