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We were thinking the bike has too much trail but I noticed Chuck has even more trail in his numbers. I did order (and received) the shock shims from the race kit thinking I might shim it just a little. There are also inserts to reduce the rake to 23 or 23.5 degrees, and swingarm shims but hopefully I won't feel the need to change any of that. I'm probably not good enough to tell the difference anyway. :)
TDH,
The file attached is Stock VS Stock with Dunlop Slick Tires. (Moto America Spec Tires)
The previous post I made was a standard bike with the Dunlop slicks tires to validate the info posted by Lenny.
I believe these numbers to be extremely accurate. In addition to the basic geometry data these files contain other critical pieces of the puzzle. (Kinda cool to check out)
 

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Thanks Chuck! Ended up running my bike all day on the Dyno with that cat eliminator. Just getting rid of the cat and sticking your pipe on there gained about 15HP all by itself without changing anything in the ECU. We ended up just tweaking the stock map and ended up with 194.4HP (dynojet numbers) on pump gas. I hope I'll be able to hang onto it. :)
 

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Formerly CLCRACINGAaron
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Back from the dead!

So, whats the major consensus? Whats the popular fix for you guys? Swap the steering collars with Kit parts? Add shims to the rear shock? Flip the swingarm pivot (on 2016 bikes)?

I'd like to see whats happened in the last 2 years...
 

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Back from the dead!



So, whats the major consensus? Whats the popular fix for you guys? Swap the steering collars with Kit parts? Add shims to the rear shock? Flip the swingarm pivot (on 2016 bikes)?



I'd like to see whats happened in the last 2 years...


On a Superstock spec bike where u can’t change the steering collars with kit parts I’ve found the best setup to be 312-313mm shock length, flush to 4mm showing on the forks depending on track. Wheelbase need to be kept near 600mm, if u go too much shorter it’ll shake its head everywhere and too long it won’t finish a turn. I like to run the front rebound closed off more then some guys to keep the front lower from midcorner on and that has fixed the earlier issues I had with the stock forks and the bike not turning.


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Formerly CLCRACINGAaron
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Thanks bossman
 

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2016 Kawasaki ZX-10R KRT ABS Edition
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On a Superstock spec bike where u can’t change the steering collars with kit parts I’ve found the best setup to be 312-313mm shock length, flush to 4mm showing on the forks depending on track. Wheelbase need to be kept near 600mm, if u go too much shorter it’ll shake its head everywhere and too long it won’t finish a turn. I like to run the front rebound closed off more then some guys to keep the front lower from midcorner on and that has fixed the earlier issues I had with the stock forks and the bike not turning.


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600mm wheelbase? :confused:
 

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2016 Kawasaki ZX-10R KRT ABS Edition
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Center of swingarm pivot to center of rear axle.


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Ahh thanks. I'm debating whether or not screwing with the geometry is worth anything (in the future). I found this today though for any serious riders or club:
Motorcycle Geometry Software - https://www.suspact.com/shop/
 

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Ahh thanks. I'm debating whether or not screwing with the geometry is worth anything (in the future). I found this today though for any serious riders or club:

Motorcycle Geometry Software - https://www.suspact.com/shop/


Just ride the bike, save your cash for tires. Most of the fast guys I race with are running 5-6mm forks above triples and 311-13mm shock length. So if your running stock suspension just add a 3-4mm washer to the shock mount to lift the rear.


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i have a 2016 zx10r. Running k-tech dds shock with 11.5nm rear spring and ktech front forks with 11.25nm spring setup in the front. (11nm left leg and 11.5 right leg)

Rear shock length = 316mm with a 4mm shim. ( im feeling like this is too long)
Forks are thru tripple clamps 7mm.
Bike is on its nose. Turns on a dime. Bucks and fights like a bull on exit and brakes. But i can still make it work. Needs improvement tho.

Im running stock position swing arm pivot but now curious as to running the pivot in the -1 position. and running different head stem angle from the race kit.
Has anyone here found any great benefits from this? I really need to get my bike computracked or measured.
 

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Ahh thanks. I'm debating whether or not screwing with the geometry is worth anything (in the future). I found this today though for any serious riders or club:
Motorcycle Geometry Software - https://www.suspact.com/shop/
Not screwing it up is a plus.. Keeping track of what you've done is an A+. Using Suspact software to track your changes,, priceless!:smile2:
 

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Just when I was getting close to doing some geometry changes on the new build....perfect timing.
 
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