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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I have an issue that when my bike is coming down in RPM it drops below the idle limit and the bike stalls. I've asked my mechanic and my dyno tuner guy and we're all pretty unsure. I have a BMC race air filter, Akrapovic mid pipe and slip on, and the ECU is flashed and tuned. The issue has been happening since before the ecu flash and tune so that isn't the problem. I don't remember exactly when it started though. Any suggestions?

https://youtu.be/AQPdxb0DuQA
 

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Have to find a Kawa tech guy. As you know, should've would've before you ran to the flash nonsense as then kawa tech would have one LESS intervening variable to sort out about a warranty go or no situation.
 

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Sometimes dirty throttle plates can cause that issue even oil buildup. Or flash the idle higher
 

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The simple fact that you're revving the living shit out of a cold motor in neutral makes me cringe. That poor motor. Stop doing that shit. :sad:

Some people have mentioned that issue before, but while they are actually riding it. It's related to the QS from their analysis. So without knowing who did your reflash, what settings they used, turn off the QS and ride the bike.
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
This has been happening for a while. I'll try turning off the QS tomorrow when I take the bike out. I know it's bad but I needed to demonstrate for the video. I had Nels from 2wheeldyno do the flash and tune.
 

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This has been happening for a while. I'll try turning off the QS tomorrow when I take the bike out. I know it's bad but I needed to demonstrate for the video. I had Nels from 2wheeldyno do the flash and tune.
After turning off the QS function, let us know the results.

Nels does good work and the reflash is typically not an issue. But, something else may be going on and the settings used to adjust the QS may be contributing to your issue here. That's not always the case, but others have mentioned the it. Was the auto-blip enabled? Was the idle speed adjusted in the reflash? Does this problem happen in all gears or just one? What is the EBC setting you use?
 

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Check all the sensor connections and air lines that are on the throttle bodys make sure nothing's pinching I had a similar problem and my map sensor not plug in all the way

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have nel's bump the idle and re-test. Ski
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I turned off the QS and no change even at 190 degrees. Already had Nels bump idle to 1700. I'll speak to them about the throttle body things.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
So I went out for a ride today and I had another issue with the bike. My ESD warning light kept coming on. The bike didn't stall beforehand and I wasn't doing anything out of the ordinary. Could it be a Battery problem?
 

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2016 Kawasaki ZX-10R KRT ABS Edition
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So I went out for a ride today and I had another issue with the bike. My ESD warning light kept coming on. The bike didn't stall beforehand and I wasn't doing anything out of the ordinary. Could it be a Battery problem?
My bike is doing the same thing. Clutch in, coming to a stop, and it stalls. Was able to replicate on a stand just like you.

I'm thinking about taking it to the dealer tomorrow to see what can be done. I recently had my bike custom tuned but I've had it flashed since last year without ever having an issue. So I'm almost tempted to rule out the flash kit. The ESD (from what I've read) is not relative to the cause of the stalling but is instead a result of it. When my bike stalls the ESD comes on after restarting (but not every time), but it will immediately go-away if I fully reset the bike (key-off, key-on). If you've got any update please update us (me lol).
 

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This happens on my bike as well. Stalled once on the grid before a race. Not the most comforting feeling. I have a kit ecu with a hand-me-down (for now) map. I thought it would be due to that but may be not? I've upped the idle a little and it helps but I think something is still isn't right. Subscribed!
 

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This happens on my bike as well. Stalled once on the grid before a race. Not the most comforting feeling. I have a kit ecu with a hand-me-down (for now) map. I thought it would be due to that but may be not? I've upped the idle a little and it helps but I think something is still isn't right. Subscribed!
I just noticed this today, but when I rev'd my engine a certain way the RPMs not only hit zero, but the headlights dimmed, and the dashboard flickered. I didn't notice this before. And actually if you re-watch my video you can see that dash flicker. Says to me there's maybe an electrical problem related to the battery. I checked it with a multimeter and the voltage was perfect... perhaps a stator issue then? Need to look into it more but maybe your stalling is showing those same symptoms. I've got a Lithium battery coming in this week. I will keep the thread updated with any positive feedback.
 

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I just noticed this today, but when I rev'd my engine a certain way the RPMs not only hit zero, but the headlights dimmed, and the dashboard flickered. I didn't notice this before. And actually if you re-watch my video you can see that dash flicker. Says to me there's maybe an electrical problem related to the battery. I checked it with a multimeter and the voltage was perfect... perhaps a stator issue then? Need to look into it more but maybe your stalling is showing those same symptoms. I've got a Lithium battery coming in this week. I will keep the thread updated with any positive feedback.
I have a lithium ion battery so it's not likely to make a difference.
 

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This happens on my bike as well. Stalled once on the grid before a race. Not the most comforting feeling. I have a kit ecu with a hand-me-down (for now) map. I thought it would be due to that but may be not? I've upped the idle a little and it helps but I think something is still isn't right. Subscribed!


With the new 1.1 software if you run a low number in the engine brake map it tends to not want to idle after blipping the throttle, have tested it by switching engine brake maps and when I use the map with “8+” it would idle perfect. Have seen the issue on a bunch of bikes running the 1.1 software and they just increase the idle rpm to help also.


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I have a lithium ion battery so it's not likely to make a difference.
Yeah, I looked more into the electrical and the battery/stator/regulator were all running perfectly. For some odd reason the bike hasn't repeated the issue in a couple days. Maybe a hose was kinked or something, not sure. Also, zero tank pressure buildup which is good. Either way that lithium battery is going in for weight savings haha a free 4-5lbs worth of saving & the quick-disconnect feature for storage sounds like a good move.
 

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Mine was doing the same thing after remapping the ECU using woolich software (The Map). Changing my air filter, cleaning up the oil on the throttle, and fixing that seal on the airbox resolved the issue for me. I went from a M4 GP slip-on to a SC-Project CR-T slip-on.

 

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did anyone figure out for sure what the issue was. I had a map done for my bike that was insane but it would stall way to frequently when pulling the clutch from anything about 3500 rpm and sometimes on start it would fire then drop off and die. wouldn't usually care but it did it splitting lanes in traffic and I needed throttle pretty bad and didn't have it. that almost ended very badly for me. went back to an eu unrestricted map and doesn't do it anymore but does a few times stall while sitting at a stop light in neutral for no apparent reason and with no warning
 

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did anyone figure out for sure what the issue was. I had a map done for my bike that was insane but it would stall way to frequently when pulling the clutch from anything about 3500 rpm and sometimes on start it would fire then drop off and die. wouldn't usually care but it did it splitting lanes in traffic and I needed throttle pretty bad and didn't have it. that almost ended very badly for me. went back to an eu unrestricted map and doesn't do it anymore but does a few times stall while sitting at a stop light in neutral for no apparent reason and with no warning
I had my ECU reflashed with a slightly higher idle and some additional tuning on the decel so the RPMs don't rapidly drop when cutting the throttle (hard to explain but they drop but then slow down towards idle to avoid choking out in a sense). I can include a video of my RPMs when I get home to show you. I had Nicks Performance Tuning in FL work on the bike quite a bit and I haven't had an issue since. From what I've researched, several Kawasaki ECU's are unresponsive to certain functions like the throttle-killswitch hard reset for engine code clearing. So I'm thinking there's a bug out there. And it sounds, repeatedly, like once a bugged ECU is flashed it triggers stuff like idle problems and stalling. If you're up for having Nick take a crack at reflashing the ECU just hit him up on IG and let him know you're having stalling issues and that I recommended him. He'll hopefully do what he did for me to you, and hopefully that fixes your issues. If it doesn't he's really quick with follow ups and he'll definitely be more than happy to do some further diagnostics at no cost and free shipping. Tri-State Racing I think does flashes too and they can probably work some magic.
 
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