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Discussion Starter #1
I have a gen 3 and desperately want to use a top mount with a longer clevis to mount my air shifter. The problem is, DME's mount is listed for a 2010+, not a 2008. I called them and they didn't know if that mount or any other mount would work.
I fabbed up my own mount but it has alot of flex to it and I think its causing me to miss shifts. I've adjusted the kill box which helped, but still pretty consistently missing 3rd when I hit the button.

Does anybody on here have a top mount for a Gen3? What bike is it designed for? Did you have to modify anything to make it fit?

Thanks for your help-
Medic
 

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Discussion Starter #2
I'm I the only person who has an air shifter on a gen 3?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I decided to pull the trigger and order a top mount for a 2010 zx10r. Just hoping it fits.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
also looking at a replacement lever which will get rid of all the linkage and be a direct bolt on, to the shift shaft. I've been advised an old KZ lever will fit. I've also looked up part numbers and discovered a early gen zx14r lever does not use linkage. I'm going to check out a local bike salvage place here in the next few days for a lever I think will work out perfect. It's from a kawi 1100 spectre. Has a nice big S bend to it, so, it should clear the case.
 

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Are you using OEM rearsets or aftermarket? If I'm not mistaken, the 2nd and 3rd gen are very similar with the frame mounts/rearset/shift linkages.... If you hit a dead end with that kit I could likely make something that runs through the hollow engine mount that would work for the 2nd gen..... but you'll have to post up some pics of what you have. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #7
The part won't be here until friday. I leave thursday for vacation. I'll post up when I return. I also purchased a shift lever from a 1982 KZ1100 spectre. Has a really nice long lazy S bend to it. I'll know more about the fitment of that in the next few days.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Well. Good news and less than desirable news.
Good news is the old kz1100 shifter slides right on the shift shaft and makes it a reverse pattern.

The other part being the top mount, I seriously doubt I can make it work using a top mount for a newer zx10.
The distance from the top mount to the shift arm is about 11" and quite a shallow angle.

The 1st is current setup with linkage.
2nd pic is with the linkage removed and the kz shifter in place.
 

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Which lever would you prefer to run? A mount can be made for either of those set-ups with a little bit of work... but in either case I'd mount that solenoid somewhere hidden and just run a line to the actuator. Worst case you would have to shorten the actuator rod up a bit... but that's not difficult.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I'm going to leave the KZ shift lever on and leave the linkage off. I'm also going to remote mount the solenoid just to clean it up a bit.
I'd really like to move the cylinder further forward, as it feels like it's in my way when I sit on the bike.
I was thinking of making a new mount which will sit in front of the frame and would be completely vertical. Another option, which I don't like, is to drill the frame and mount it that way.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Here it is with the zx10r top mount. The mount is from MPS and listed for 2010+ zx10r. Looks like it'll work out just fine. I had to use a different metric bolt, the one that attaches the cylinder to the mount itself. As you can see the angle looks good, just not enough reach to attach the clevis. I have 2 choices here, go with a longer clevis or weld a tab to the top of the shifter. I'm going with option "B" and welding a tab to attach the clevis.
Can't wait till this is done.

The next quandry is: do I change to co2 and have tons of shifts without recharging the bottle or switch to nitrogen? My buddy uses nitrogen in his turbo busa and loves it. He claims it's the cleanest "air" you can use and never has a problem with missed shifts.

 

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Nitrogen is good stuff, so long as you can get it filled reasonably. A lot of folks use Nitrous Oxide as well (with a regulator of course)... as it's easy to get and you get a lot of bottle head. Nitrogen has the nice benefit of being completely inert, though.

Be careful welding anything to that piston assembly.... it would be really easy to put too much heat into it and warp something. A machined adapter would probably be a better way to go if you can.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I'm having my buddy weld it up for me, as he has the same type setup on his busa. Those old shift levers are steel and pretty thick, so i'm sure it'll work out just fine.
Taking the bike to his place on sunday to get it done.
 

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Ah, I misunderstood you... I thought you were talking about welding something to the top of the piston, not the shift lever. Looks like it should work out alright. :) Post up how it works out. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #15
will do. Also, i'm probably going to go with nitrogen. Found a local welding supply store that has the tanks for about $30.
 

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Could always use this clevis:

https://www.grainger.com/product/CHICAGO-HARDWARE-Yoke-End-4TAE9

Its longer than the little one you have on there. I'm sure you know, but make sure the shaft on the cylinder is in the middle when you attach it to the shift lever. Or at least make sure you have enough play to be able to down/up shift.

I tried nitrous with a Carolina Cycle regulator and I'm not sure if I had it setup wrong or what the deal was but I could never get nitrous to work on 2 of my bikes. It'd work most of the time but always seemed to miss a shift when it counted most. I would love to run nitrous but good old air always seems to work well for me and is cheap lol
 

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Discussion Starter #17
3" back from the shift shaft is the magic number. Luckily that's just about directly down from the direction I have the cylinder pointed in the picture, right about in the middle of the yellow letters on the side of the shifter lever. This should be all complete Wednesday night, just in time for races this weekend.
My replacement launch master should be here tomorrow as well. I was lucky enough to buy a brand new MSD Launch master box and it was defective. Had to send it back
 

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Discussion Starter #18
After further research and price comparison, i'm going with CO2 for the setup. Turns out nitrogen was going to cost almost double what a co2 setup would cost.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
 
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Discussion Starter #20
Here's what I've ended with. Kz1000 shift lever, mounted backwards, air cylinder top mount from dme for a 2010+ zx10r,mps kill box. Today was my first outing with this setup and it's flawless
in fact, my 1st run I failed to air up my shifter, and realized it as I was rolling into the burnout box.
I decided to use the button for the kill and foot shift. Surprisingly it worked well. Shifts are super short and crisp without the linkage.
Best so far is a [email protected] (1/4 mi)
With a 1.58 60'
 
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