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Whoa! Thanks for posting some pics! There aren't many these days of the Gen 2 and they always put a smile on my face when they show up! Glad to see you're making progress with your mods!

I will say that one of the best features of that bike was the undertail exhaust. Being an old fart myself and watching that design become popular means something to me and I embraced it. It was short-lived, but I never thought the G2 looked right without it. That Werkes pipe you have there looks like it sits low. It will be interesting to see that after all the bodywork is back on it.
 

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Whoa! Thanks for posting some pics! There aren't many these days of the Gen 2 and they always put a smile on my face when they show up! Glad to see you're making progress with your mods!

I will say that one of the best features of that bike was the undertail exhaust. Being an old fart myself and watching that design become popular means something to me and I embraced it. It was short-lived, but I never thought the G2 looked right without it. That Werkes pipe you have there looks like it sits low. It will be interesting to see that after all the bodywork is back on it.
Yes good progress coming on lovely that. Your lucky Skydork did't weigh into you over the LED......Oops its gonna start now ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Whoa! Thanks for posting some pics! There aren't many these days of the Gen 2 and they always put a smile on my face when they show up! Glad to see you're making progress with your mods!

I will say that one of the best features of that bike was the undertail exhaust. Being an old fart myself and watching that design become popular means something to me and I embraced it. It was short-lived, but I never thought the G2 looked right without it. That Werkes pipe you have there looks like it sits low. It will be interesting to see that after all the bodywork is back on it.
I am definitely going to have to make some height adjustments once the bodywork comes in.

the exhaust picture is a test fit I just this morning I’ll have to button up everything later this afternoon.
 

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REPOST Enforcement Mod
'16 ZX-10R KRT
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Yes good progress coming on lovely that. Your lucky Skydork did't weigh into you over the LED......Oops its gonna start now ;)
Dammit michael. You just HAD to bring that up, didn't you. My therapist has been working with me on how to better control my trigger points so I left it alone in my initial response. Now I need to make another appointment. Thanks for that. :sneaky: :censored:;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Dammit michael. You just HAD to bring that up, didn't you. My therapist has been working with me on how to better control my trigger points so I left it alone in my initial response. Now I need to make another appointment. Thanks for that. :sneaky: :censored:;)
not a fan of led?
 

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Dammit michael. You just HAD to bring that up, didn't you. My therapist has been working with me on how to better control my trigger points so I left it alone in my initial response. Now I need to make another appointment. Thanks for that. :sneaky: :censored:;)
😅😅😅😅
 

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REPOST Enforcement Mod
'16 ZX-10R KRT
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not a fan of led?
It's not really that. Michael has me pretty well pegged though in regards to that.

It's not really the LED itself. It's using LED in a housing with reflectors not designed for it. The type you've selected with the powered cooling fan and huge heatsink that doesn't fit properly in the housing is one of those things. HID is the preferred way to go, but there are couple decent LEDs that could work good enough. Most people think LED is brighter, but it typically isn't. It doesn't get quite as hot, doesn't use as much power, and has more color options, but that is about it. HID is brighter with a similar spread pattern like incandescent, but you have to mount the drive units. Most people want to just plug in something like LED without doing all that, but they aren't directly comparable. The GTR Lighting CSP Mini bulb is the closest thing I've found to being an adequate substitute. The heatsink off the back along with the LED type used and the arrangement of it that closely matches the incandescent bulb is the key. But they aren't cheap because of all that.

Michael knows I've posted lots of responses on this topic and my opinion on it all.

448766



448768
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
It's not really that. Michael has me pretty well pegged though in regards to that.

It's not really the LED itself. It's using LED in a housing with reflectors not designed for it. The type you've selected with the powered cooling fan and huge heatsink that doesn't fit properly in the housing is one of those things. HID is the preferred way to go, but there are couple decent LEDs that could work good enough. Most people think LED is brighter, but it typically isn't. It doesn't get quite as hot, doesn't use as much power, and has more color options, but that is about it. HID is brighter with a similar spread pattern like incandescent, but you have to mount the drive units. Most people want to just plug in something like LED without doing all that, but they aren't directly comparable. The GTR Lighting CSP Mini bulb is the closest thing I've found to being an adequate substitute. The heatsink off the back along with the LED type used and the arrangement of it that closely matches the incandescent bulb is the key. But they aren't cheap because of all that.

Michael knows I've posted lots of responses on this topic and my opinion on it all.

View attachment 448766


View attachment 448768

great info! I will look into it. For some reason my bike isn’t turning on may be a fuse ordead battery so I haven’t actually got to see the lights on just yet.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
great info! I will look into it. For some reason my bike isn’t turning on may be a fuse ordead battery so I haven’t actually got to see the lights on just yet.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Just hooked up a new battery. Checked all fuses main and secondary box no power. Any thoughts on what could be the issue? Turned on no issues prior to this point not sure what it could be.
 

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Just hooked up a new battery. Checked all fuses main and secondary box no power. Any thoughts on what could be the issue? Turned on no issues prior to this point not sure what it could be.
Well, that's a pretty loaded question with no details. What "secondary box" are you even talking about here? So based on this, I'd say you should just scrap the bike and buy a new one.
 

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@Rvaughn2 nice photos. Looking forward to it completed. May I see what the LEDs look like?
I'm not trying to trigger SkyDork, but it's because I'm using LEDs myself.


@SkyDork Those GTR Lightning CSP Mini are labelled as CSP LEDs and 2500lm at 16W. Philips do not make ZES CSPs. CSP's need to be manufactured to their final form factor, so it is less flexible to lamp designers. From the photos, they look like SMT LEDs. Compare those numbers to Phillips ZES datasheet doesn't add up. At 16W, for 6x ZES's, that's about 935mA @ 2.85V, so that's about 1440~1800lm in total. The beam pattern of ZES will give 2 brighter patches on either side of the low beam, as they are effectively 2 groups of 90-degree beam in the low lamp. They may be arranged in a line of 3 little LEDs, but it will require at least 4 sides to mimic conventional halogen/filament H11/H9 bulbs - which is impossible to design given the needs to dissipate heat.

All I am saying, LED selection is a pain.

For now, Cree's XHP50 will be my choice, easily 3000lm at ~30W and better color rendition (CRI) than ZES's. These will definitely be brighter than H11/H9 of 50/55W power, but will need a better cooling solution, either with fan or ribbon style heatsinks.

And of course, neither will ever be DOT/ECE approved as a drop in replacement for filament type housings.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Well, that's a pretty loaded question with no details. What "secondary box" are you even talking about here? So based on this, I'd say you should just scrap the bike and buy a new one.
Got it figured out. Forgot the upper harness was unplugged.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
@Rvaughn2 nice photos. Looking forward to it completed. May I see what the LEDs look like?
I'm not trying to trigger SkyDork, but it's because I'm using LEDs myself.


@SkyDork Those GTR Lightning CSP Mini are labelled as CSP LEDs and 2500lm at 16W. Philips do not make ZES CSPs. CSP's need to be manufactured to their final form factor, so it is less flexible to lamp designers. From the photos, they look like SMT LEDs. Compare those numbers to Phillips ZES datasheet doesn't add up. At 16W, for 6x ZES's, that's about 935mA @ 2.85V, so that's about 1440~1800lm in total. The beam pattern of ZES will give 2 brighter patches on either side of the low beam, as they are effectively 2 groups of 90-degree beam in the low lamp. They may be arranged in a line of 3 little LEDs, but it will require at least 4 sides to mimic conventional halogen/filament H11/H9 bulbs - which is impossible to design given the needs to dissipate heat.

All I am saying, LED selection is a pain.

For now, Cree's XHP50 will be my choice, easily 3000lm at ~30W and better color rendition (CRI) than ZES's. These will definitely be brighter than H11/H9 of 50/55W power, but will need a better cooling solution, either with fan or ribbon style heatsinks.

And of course, neither will ever be DOT/ECE approved as a drop in replacement for filament type housings.

I’ll snap a photo tomorrow.
 

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REPOST Enforcement Mod
'16 ZX-10R KRT
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@Rvaughn2 nice photos. Looking forward to it completed. May I see what the LEDs look like?
I'm not trying to trigger SkyDork, but it's because I'm using LEDs myself.


@SkyDork Those GTR Lightning CSP Mini are labelled as CSP LEDs and 2500lm at 16W. Philips do not make ZES CSPs. CSP's need to be manufactured to their final form factor, so it is less flexible to lamp designers. From the photos, they look like SMT LEDs. Compare those numbers to Phillips ZES datasheet doesn't add up. At 16W, for 6x ZES's, that's about 935mA @ 2.85V, so that's about 1440~1800lm in total. The beam pattern of ZES will give 2 brighter patches on either side of the low beam, as they are effectively 2 groups of 90-degree beam in the low lamp. They may be arranged in a line of 3 little LEDs, but it will require at least 4 sides to mimic conventional halogen/filament H11/H9 bulbs - which is impossible to design given the needs to dissipate heat.

All I am saying, LED selection is a pain.

For now, Cree's XHP50 will be my choice, easily 3000lm at ~30W and better color rendition (CRI) than ZES's. These will definitely be brighter than H11/H9 of 50/55W power, but will need a better cooling solution, either with fan or ribbon style heatsinks.

And of course, neither will ever be DOT/ECE approved as a drop in replacement for filament type housings.
This is a great response! Thank you for your contribution!!! And that didn't trigger me at all! Insightful! :p:geek:

For the record, I currently have a set of those LEDs in mine. And you're exactly right about the LED selection being a pain. I can't verify the actual LEDs used, but was swayed by the description. There are specific reasons to choose these. In my case, it was more about the color temp, the heatsink, and the overall size that was something I wanted to play with. Most of the LEDs you find try to mimic the incandescent omni-directional light pattern by arranging the LEDs in a spherical pattern that is MUCH bigger than a normal filament. The throw pattern from that style stinks. This thinner design is better in my opinion, but it is side-to-side directional.

Given the headlight enclosure housing, heat is an issue. A fan cooled LED lamp doesn't make much sense unless it sticks out of the housing opening it all up to the elements. A braided heatsinks are much larger and require space as well. These were the smallest form-factor I could find with a decent enough LED arrangement that would fit into the housing and still be sealed correctly. As it is, the heatsink on these is still too long to allow the OEM connector to be put on it and still close the dust cover. I made an adapter harness that plugs into the OEM connector and then over to the lamp. The wire about about an inch long and just offsets the OEM plastic connector to the side which lets the cap close.

It was the easiest and most efficient way to do it in my opinion. Everything is a trade-off when it comes to this stuff. I wanted pure white 5000k color temp, but am stuck with the only 6000k color temp these come in. The color is more vibrant during the day and the housing seals up with no additional heat build up in the housing itself. It didn't require any trimming or cutting to make the heatsink functional. There are brighter ones out there, but this was a trade-off I was willing to live with. The positives outweigh the negatives for me.
 
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Thanks, @SkyDork , I think you have picked the best option for your needs, and you truly understand the compromise in that all.
When you said pure white, did you mean the 8000K? IMO 5000K is more 'yellow' than 6500K.

My Gen3 does not have the rear caps, and so the fan/heatsink freely sticks out, allowing that to draw the heat away from the LED.
Over here, there are aftermarket caps with protruding shape to accomodate the bulky heatsinks.
 

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Thanks, @SkyDork , I think you have picked the best option for your needs, and you truly understand the compromise in that all.
When you said pure white, did you mean the 8000K? IMO 5000K is more 'yellow' than 6500K.

My Gen3 does not have the rear caps, and so the fan/heatsink freely sticks out, allowing that to draw the heat away from the LED.
Over here, there are aftermarket caps with protruding shape to accomodate the bulky heatsinks.
After market caps like that would be interesting to forum members have you a link to post up?
 

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Love it and yes I too am a fan of the wheelbarrow double under pipes. Keep up the good work and post more pics when you can of this lovely beast. S/F
 
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