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Discussion Starter #1
Can anyone tell me what exactly code 46 is and means? It says my fuel pump relay is stuck on or open I can't remember the exact wording. I have changed cdi boxes and ecu and it still gives that code. Is this causing my fuel pump to not prime when I turn on the key? Thanks for any help
 

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Yeah, service code 46 is "relay is stuck ON". The relay box should be replaced if that's the code. Since you said you already swapped that, then the only thing left is the wiring to it.

The ECU uses a switched ground connection to trigger the relay. If a known good ECU was swapped along with the relay box, then the only issue has to be in the wiring harness. You;ll have to start tracing back the pins and wire to it. Unfortunately, the harness goes through a joint connector that you'll also have to verify. Have you checked the wiring diagram and started going through that yet?
 

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Yeah, service code 46 is "relay is stuck ON". The relay box should be replaced if that's the code. Since you said you already swapped that, then the only thing left is the wiring to it.

The ECU uses a switched ground connection to trigger the relay. If a known good ECU was swapped along with the relay box, then the only issue has to be in the wiring harness. You;ll have to start tracing back the pins and wire to it. Unfortunately, the harness goes through a joint connector that you'll also have to verify. Have you checked the wiring diagram and started going through that yet?
No I haven't, so start from the ecu or the relay box?
 

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No I haven't, so start from the ecu or the relay box?
In this case, it should be both. The first thing I'd do is a point-to-point check from the ECU to the CDI. You're checking the wiring connection from end-to-end to try and isolate which connection point is broken. This all presumes that you're working with a known good ECU and CDI. Otherwise, you should probably do an operational check on the relay at least. That involves an ohm check with a meter on the coils to be sure that it latches properly when activated. Outside of that, you're looking at the wiring that goes in between those.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
In this case, it should be both. The first thing I'd do is a point-to-point check from the ECU to the CDI. You're checking the wiring connection from end-to-end to try and isolate which connection point is broken. This all presumes that you're working with a known good ECU and CDI. Otherwise, you should probably do an operational check on the relay at least. That involves an ohm check with a meter on the coils to be sure that it latches properly when activated. Outside of that, you're looking at the wiring that goes in between those.
Ok thanks a lot and I'm checking the ground for controls ? Or all grounds from ecu? Sorry so many questions
 

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Ok thanks a lot and I'm checking the ground for controls ? Or all grounds from ecu? Sorry so many questions
No, that's not really what I was trying to describe. You're checking the wiring, so ground and power don't apply. You want to do a continuity check of the wiring from the pin in the ECU connector that links to the pin in the CDI connector. It doesn't matter if that's ground or not. There's only a handful of connection points for that from the ECU to the CDI. Only two connections out of the ECU to control it. The relay has switched power and ground through only 2 pins at the relay, but the connection points to get there go through a couple joint connectors, the ignition switch, and a fuse panel. You need to chase down which wire isn't connected and the figure out how to fix that one you know it isn't connected.
 

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No, that's not really what I was trying to describe. You're checking the wiring, so ground and power don't apply. You want to do a continuity check of the wiring from the pin in the ECU connector that links to the pin in the CDI connector. It doesn't matter if that's ground or not. There's only a handful of connection points for that from the ECU to the CDI. Only two connections out of the ECU to control it. The relay has switched power and ground through only 2 pins at the relay, but the connection points to get there go through a couple joint connectors, the ignition switch, and a fuse panel. You need to chase down which wire isn't connected and the figure out how to fix that one you know it isn't connected.
Ok I got you now. Thanks again
 

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Swap out the relay box. I have repaired one before but it's a pain in the ass. Bad fuel pump relay on a friends 05 zx10r. Had to Dremel the box open, use an smd reflow station heat gun to remove the relays and just replaced all of them. Think there was only 4 of one kind which cost 15 bucks and 2 of another type. The hardest part was trying to get the board to go back into the pins that plug into the harness. If I were to do it again I would cut that part do I didn't need to separate it from the board. Anyhow u can get a used relay box for about 50 bucks. They usually work fine. That will probably be your issue. And your bike will still prime it just won't ever shut the pump off and will end up burning it up or causing a fire. So get it fixed asap
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I already swapped
Swap out the relay box. I have repaired one before but it's a pain in the ass. Bad fuel pump relay on a friends 05 zx10r. Had to Dremel the box open, use an smd reflow station heat gun to remove the relays and just replaced all of them. Think there was only 4 of one kind which cost 15 bucks and 2 of another type. The hardest part was trying to get the board to go back into the pins that plug into the harness. If I were to do it again I would cut that part do I didn't need to separate it from the board. Anyhow u can get a used relay box for about 50 bucks. They usually work fine. That will probably be your issue. And your bike will still prime it just won't ever shut the pump off and will end up burning it up or causing a fire. So get it fixed asap
I already swapped the relay box and it's the same problem. From what i have been seeing in leaning towards the ecu being the problem. But im not sure. Im still checking the ecu out. Any other advise will be appreciate it.
 

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So you saw in your other thread about trying to basically hot wire the fuel pump right. Give it a shot. If it runs you should hook it in line with a meter and see what kind of amperage it is pulling. If it is working with direct wire it doesn't mean it is working properly. You can install an external relay and keep the pump running for a while longer but would be better to replace the pump. The ecu doesn't go bad very often to be honest. If it does it is usually more than just a fuel pump not working
 

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So you saw in your other thread about trying to basically hot wire the fuel pump right. Give it a shot. If it runs you should hook it in line with a meter and see what kind of amperage it is pulling. If it is working with direct wire it doesn't mean it is working properly. You can install an external relay and keep the pump running for a while longer but would be better to replace the pump. The ecu doesn't go bad very often to be honest. If it does it is usually more than just a fuel pump not working
Ok I will try that, do you know what amperage I'm looking for?
 

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No j actually don't but I can promise it should be fairly low. It might spike when it first starts pumping but only a lil bit. I'll see if I can find the specs on the pump and I'll let you know
 

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Hey question, have you checked your tip over/vehicle down sensor? Pretty sure that can kill fuel pump action from the gate so if it's bad that could be the culprit
 

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Hey question, have you checked your tip over/vehicle down sensor? Pretty sure that can kill fuel pump action from the gate so if it's bad that could be the culprit
Yes I have replaced it, that's what what started all of this problem. Everything else has come back to working except the fuel pump. I ordered a new pump so hopefully that will be it, I can't see how both ECU's and 3 cdi boxes have all crapped out. In my relay boxes I have 2 that I hear the relay activating and 1 that I hear a scratching sound, so is the ECU telling the relay to activate? Does that mean both are working properly is what I'm asking. That's what I think so the pump seems like it's the problem to me at least
 

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Yeah, like I said, even if the pump is able to be hot wires but won't work from the relay, it could still be the pump. If it's toast and is causing massive current spikes it will toast the relay box. If you have replaced the relay box, all I gotta ask is did u use a new one or a used one. There is a very real chance that someone sold you a unit that died via fuel pump. Still even oem fuel pumps are less than 100 bucks so not a bank breaker. You have the manual for your bike right? If not download it and read through it until you find the part about trouble shooting the relay box. As far as metering out the fuel pump, short of having an oscilloscope, or a very expensive meter it will be difficult to determine if it is the fuel pump or a short in line. Replace the pump but don't turn that shit on till after you go through the manual and do the relay troubleshooting with your multimeter. If it checks out plug that shit up and start your bike. Just make sure u have fuel in your tank and make sure it's fresh fuel. Last thing u want is to run the pump dry or try and start the engine with old fuel and think the pump is still to blame when u just fouled plugs or something..best of luck
 

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Yeah, like I said, even if the pump is able to be hot wires but won't work from the relay, it could still be the pump. If it's toast and is causing massive current spikes it will toast the relay box. If you have replaced the relay box, all I gotta ask is did u use a new one or a used one. There is a very real chance that someone sold you a unit that died via fuel pump. Still even oem fuel pumps are less than 100 bucks so not a bank breaker. You have the manual for your bike right? If not download it and read through it until you find the part about trouble shooting the relay box. As far as metering out the fuel pump, short of having an oscilloscope, or a very expensive meter it will be difficult to determine if it is the fuel pump or a short in line. Replace the pump but don't turn that shit on till after you go through the manual and do the relay troubleshooting with your multimeter. If it checks out plug that shit up and start your bike. Just make sure u have fuel in your tank and make sure it's fresh fuel. Last thing u want is to run the pump dry or try and start the engine with old fuel and think the pump is still to blame when u just fouled plugs or something..best of luck
Ok thanks allot, and I did buy a used relay box and I will definitely test the relay box before. Thanks for all you're help and advise
 

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Yeah, like I said, even if the pump is able to be hot wires but won't work from the relay, it could still be the pump. If it's toast and is causing massive current spikes it will toast the relay box. If you have replaced the relay box, all I gotta ask is did u use a new one or a used one. There is a very real chance that someone sold you a unit that died via fuel pump. Still even oem fuel pumps are less than 100 bucks so not a bank breaker. You have the manual for your bike right? If not download it and read through it until you find the part about trouble shooting the relay box. As far as metering out the fuel pump, short of having an oscilloscope, or a very expensive meter it will be difficult to determine if it is the fuel pump or a short in line. Replace the pump but don't turn that shit on till after you go through the manual and do the relay troubleshooting with your multimeter. If it checks out plug that shit up and start your bike. Just make sure u have fuel in your tank and make sure it's fresh fuel. Last thing u want is to run the pump dry or try and start the engine with old fuel and think the pump is still to blame when u just fouled plugs or something..best of luck
Hooked up a new pump and it fired right up!!! But it runs a little rough, could I have fouled a plug ?
 

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It's possible. The gen 1 is getting long in the tooth, if you are running irridium plugs I doubt you fouled them. Could be stick coils or a number of things. Clean or change your air filter and put fresh fuel in her. Glad u got it sorted out
 
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