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The bike comes standard with an oil cooler. My bike idles for long enough to warm up and I think the higher idle changes how the engine brake works.
I am talking about the external oil cooler that mounts under the radiator, which most racers use. On Gen 4 the engine braking controlled by idle adjustment, you right about that. on Gen 5 a bit different, you are right about idle but in Gen 5 the idle control solenoid controls that RPM adjustment. so it can be set for the bike to idle and for engine braking, on woolich we have a map for it, unlike the Gen4 which it just was an idle adjustment.
 

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Hi got my ECU and the cells in the rpm range were increased, a little better but you can tell there is a little rough idle, but better than before
 

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Hey Guys, I have a Gen 5 and when i blip the throttle, the idle doesnt hold and the bike shuts off. It shuts off while at a stop light also. Its a pain. I dont have an access to a dyno. Have fitted my bike with FTECU, Graves Cat eliminator exhaust and Active Tune from FTECU. I have tried correcting the fuelling using Auto tune also.

But not been able to resolve the problem. Could anyone of you pls help out. Thanks.
 

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Can someone explain the timing IAP?
Timing refers to Ignition timing, in woolich you have Ignition map for each cylinder or it can be combined in one map. when a change in combined map are made all 4 cylinders will change accordantly automatically.

IAP Map is intake Air pressure or in the automotive industry, they call it intake absolute pressure. which is more like Map sensor or Manifold absolute pressure.

IAP map will control fuel (how much fuel goes in the engine for each cylinder or when maps are combined by changing one cell all 4 cylinders on that cell will change accordantly) this map will effect fueling along with TPS map up to 10% throttle after that TPS map is only for fueling. It is when the pressure in air box will equal to outside pressure or on the map is zero. hope that helps a bit with my limited knowledge.
 

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Hey Guys, I have a Gen 5 and when i blip the throttle, the idle doesnt hold and the bike shuts off. It shuts off while at a stop light also. Its a pain. I dont have an access to a dyno. Have fitted my bike with FTECU, Graves Cat eliminator exhaust and Active Tune from FTECU. I have tried correcting the fuelling using Auto tune also.

But not been able to resolve the problem. Could anyone of you pls help out. Thanks.
Sorry can't help you with FTECU, all I can say it sound like you are running rich mixture. I have seen few R1 with FTECU which ran way too rich. most of the map that they download from Graves are set to a very rich mixture and that is because lots people use them and if bike run lean could damage the engine so it is better and safer to run it rich.

your Autotune only will change 5% on top of the map you have and that is not much to correct a problem .You need to find a dyno with A/F meter and built a map then the Autotune just correct on top of that if is needed.
 

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So how do I tune the IAP so the on/off throttle is not so abrupt in the corners? It makes sense that the far left column is RPM, but I don't understand the rest.
 

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So how do I tune the IAP so the on/off throttle is not so abrupt in the corners? It makes sense that the far left column is RPM, but I don't understand the rest.
For On/off throttle, you need tune combination of maps. Not just IAP map. according to the modification, you made to the bike.

IAP map, timing map and EVT map along with deceleration cut off.

But just talking about IAP map, on Top of the map there are numbers from left to right (60-0)

when the throttle opens up the pressure inside the air box gets low that is where zero is, for whatever RPM. and when the throttle shuts the map is at 60 .and partial throttle all between. most the problem is when you install an aftermarket exhaust from 0-5000 RPM so may want to run it a bit richer than 13.3 A/F , I like it between 12.5 and 13

Now, what exhaust you have? Do you have woolich software with log box? and what kind of rider are you? there are maps on map share that will give you a start for tuning.
 

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I have a 2017 ZX10 with the M4 loud ass exhaust, all emissions delete, woolich flash kit with the usb interface, but no log box. I'm an expert racer with several regional championships in CCS/CMRA and raced select AMA rounds 2012-2014 in the Daytona sportbike class. I've been on CBR 600RR of various generations most of my racing career using the HRC kit. This stuff is way beyond what I'm used to. I've never had traction control, auto blip, or near the vast array of tuning options so I feel like I'm a little behind on the technology. I'm struggling to get comfortable on this bike and much of it is electronics related.
 

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I have a 2017 ZX10 with the M4 loud ass exhaust, all emissions delete, woolich flash kit with the usb interface, but no log box. I'm an expert racer with several regional championships in CCS/CMRA and raced select AMA rounds 2012-2014 in the Daytona sportbike class. I've been on CBR 600RR of various generations most of my racing career using the HRC kit. This stuff is way beyond what I'm used to. I've never had traction control, auto blip, or near the vast array of tuning options so I feel like I'm a little behind on the technology. I'm struggling to get comfortable on this bike and much of it is electronics related.
Well, if you racing the bike you should get it on the Dyno and set A/F for Rpm range.

I would suggest that you try a different setting on the ETV map tell you will find what works for you. Usually, you want the opening of throttle to be slow then 1:1 ratio for rest. gear 1-4 and go more aggressive on 5th and 6th. this will help on ON/OFF problem you have.

If you are racing the bike then with that exhaust you should have more aggressive timing advanced up to 5000 RPM and you just doing it for fun now (Racing ) less timing Advanced to keep the engine for longer mileage.

You can look at the Map I have on map share for ETV map and timing. which is not so aggressive. Or ask Anthony to give you the map he has with more aggressive timing and ETV map.

This is all about the setup you have what fuel you use and the type of riding you do. And set up should be according.
 

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here is an example for you on ETV map, this is 2nd gear for my bike, I have a -1,+1 with a 520 chain on the bike, the style of riding is more point and shoot. So when I am going into a turn with 2nd gear on the brakes the RPM drops below 9000,( you may want this RPM higher with your riding as you may keep that RPM higher) the opening of Throttle is slow and gets higher as I open the throttle. this will keep the bike more stable and won't upset the chasse. on the feel of On/Off throttle is smooth.
 

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Thanks, Chiffee
I have access to a dyno and have optimized mid to full throttle. It's mainly the mid-corner on/off throttle that's upsetting the bike and keeping me from being able to maintain good corner speed and drive out. I've softened the ETV on the lower settings significantly and it has helped, but still not there. I thought the IAP might be the trick.
 

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IAP will help below 5000 RPM when you running it around 12 A/F with that Exhaust you have. give that a try too.

Red area is when you maintain throttle blew 5000 .a bit richer mixture will help with that exhaust to make the engine runs smoother without back pressure, Green area is for idle .
 

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Hey Guys, I have a Gen 5 and when i blip the throttle, the idle doesnt hold and the bike shuts off. It shuts off while at a stop light also. Its a pain. I dont have an access to a dyno. Have fitted my bike with FTECU, Graves Cat eliminator exhaust and Active Tune from FTECU. I have tried correcting the fuelling using Auto tune also.

But not been able to resolve the problem. Could anyone of you pls help out. Thanks.
Sorry can't help you with FTECU, all I can say it sound like you are running rich mixture. I have seen few R1 with FTECU which ran way too rich. most of the map that they download from Graves are set to a very rich mixture and that is because lots people use them and if bike run lean could damage the engine so it is better and safer to run it rich.

your Autotune only will change 5% on top of the map you have and that is not much to correct a problem .You need to find a dyno with A/F meter and built a map then the Autotune just correct on top of that if is needed.
Thanks Chifee. Will talk to FTECU guys to solve the issue. I don't have access to a Dyno.
 

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I put one of my bikes map on map share , and use 1600RPM at Idle ,you may need more timing for different exhausts. 2016 ZX10R map ,Autotuned

working on Austin Racing exhaust right now ,fuel map is a bit different but using the same timing map.
Hi, i have an austin racing decat on my 2020 with a bmc filter. My bike doesn't idle at a certain rpm, have got a pcV hoping to solve it. Would you be kind enough to share the austin map?
 

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Hi, i have an austin racing decat on my 2020 with a bmc filter. My bike doesn't idle at a certain rpm, have got a pcV hoping to solve it. Would you be kind enough to share the austin map?
Well, this is a hell of a thread bump!

If you re-read the entire thread, you'll see that the discussion is related to mapping with the ETV settings. That is not something that is controlled by a PCV. PCVs are a thing of the past and most people don't use them any longer because of better options. They only affect fueling anyway. Your idling issue doesn't sound fuel related. You can't share ECU maps unless you go through the "share" feature of the software application or manually type the values in. That's what Chiffee says about the "mapshare" and it's already out there. It wouldn't do you any good if he emailed the map to you directly since the values of it don't relate to the PCV or can be loaded into it.
 

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I had this issue at idle as well. The Graves guys updated my map and now the idle is smooth as glass. They said a new feature for idle control will be available in the FTECU software soon.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
 

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Hey Guys, I have a Gen 5 and when i blip the throttle, the idle doesnt hold and the bike shuts off. It shuts off while at a stop light also. Its a pain. I dont have an access to a dyno. Have fitted my bike with FTECU, Graves Cat eliminator exhaust and Active Tune from FTECU. I have tried correcting the fuelling using Auto tune also.

But not been able to resolve the problem. Could anyone of you pls help out. Thanks.
Hey
I had the same issue on my Gen5 when the bike would just drop below idle and die if blipped at standstill. The problem started when I swapped out the stock muffler with an Akra slip-on. The Kawasaki technicians were clueless as to what was causing this and blamed everything under the sun from fuel quality to air quality but did not resolve the issue. Finally figured out the solution by bumping up my idling to around 1600 rpm and by getting the throttle bodies cleaned and synced. Been running happily ever since.
 
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