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Discussion Starter #1
Good afternoon! I'm working on tuning my gen 5 and have some questions. I've searched, but now real thread on tuning this bike.

Archer has been a godsend thus far, but I feel bad emailing with questions constantly.

Bike is almost brand new (215 miles) with Woolich logbox, slip on, ais blocked off and stock O2 disconnected.

I can't get it to idle for the life of me. I used the easy EU from map share and started auto tuning. The bike has unreal power, but idles like shit.

I've added fuel, raised idle to 1400 and tried to just auto tune with idling.

Please help! And feel free to post any tuning secrets you may have on this bike. It could help a lot of us new to the Zx10 (my CBRs were easy but slow in comparison)
 

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I put one of my bikes map on map share , and use 1600RPM at Idle ,you may need more timing for different exhausts. 2016 ZX10R map ,Autotuned

working on Austin Racing exhaust right now ,fuel map is a bit different but using the same timing map.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
if it doesn't stall at a stop than stop over thinking this bike.


While I understand your point, I have to disagree. Having a brand new bike that you're ashamed of while idling at a stoplight or in the pits is not ok.

And I'm an engineer, I was trained to overthink everything....


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Discussion Starter #5
I put one of my bikes map on map share , and use 1600RPM at Idle ,you may need more timing for different exhausts. 2016 ZX10R map ,Autotuned



working on Austin Racing exhaust right now ,fuel map is a bit different but using the same timing map.


1600? Wow, I wouldn't have thought to go that high. I was kinda uncomfortable with 1400. I'll pull your map and take a peek at it.

Right now I have auto tune trying for 13.2, thinking of adding a little more fuel.


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1600? Wow, I wouldn't have thought to go that high. I was kinda uncomfortable with 1400. I'll pull your map and take a peek at it.

Right now I have auto tune trying for 13.2, thinking of adding a little more fuel.


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you don't have to do what i did,you ask a question and give you what I think is right for me, keep the RPM at 1000 add timing .

when you took the back pressure off the engine you have to correct it ,and fuel doesn't correct everything.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
you don't have to do what i did,you ask a question and give you what I think is right for me, keep the RPM at 1000 add timing .



when you took the back pressure off the engine you have to correct it ,and fuel doesn't correct everything.


I don't think you took my comment the way I intended. I was not attacking you or what you did to overcome the issue, just looking for info and experience.

Thanks for the help


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Here is the way i am doing it on another bike, the rider like you wants a low idle RPM so i set it to 1200RPM at idle.

on ignition map, I set his idle Ignition 1 degree higher, on .6 over 1000,1200 and 1400 RPM

IAP map, I change 24 through 18 over 1000 through 1400 RPM for richer fuel its between 400-500 ,you need to do this manually. then bring the Engine data up and look at A/F should be around 11-12 , you may need to add or deduct fuel for the exhaust you are running.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Here is the way i am doing it on another bike, the rider like you wants a low idle RPM so i set it to 1200RPM at idle.



on ignition map, I set his idle Ignition 1 degree higher, on .6 over 1000,1200 and 1400 RPM



IAP map, I change 24 through 18 over 1000 through 1400 RPM for richer fuel its between 400-500 ,you need to do this manually. then bring the Engine data up and look at A/F should be around 11-12 , you may need to add or deduct fuel for the exhaust you are running.


That's precisely the info I was looking for! Thank you!


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Change your A/F target on autotune in that area too. whatever A/F your bike runs well with the exhaust you have so everytime you apply Autotune it won't change
 

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I did upload the other map with Austin Racing GP1R Cat Eliminator on map share, you can compare the IAP map with the other one, this one Idle set to 1200RPM. flapper door map is set to stay open on all range of RPM
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I did upload the other map with Austin Racing GP1R Cat Eliminator on map share, you can compare the IAP map with the other one, this one Idle set to 1200RPM. flapper door map is set to stay open on all range of RPM


I'll pull that one down and give it a try! Sending you a PM


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Here is the way i am doing it on another bike, the rider like you wants a low idle RPM so i set it to 1200RPM at idle.

on ignition map, I set his idle Ignition 1 degree higher, on .6 over 1000,1200 and 1400 RPM

IAP map, I change 24 through 18 over 1000 through 1400 RPM for richer fuel its between 400-500 ,you need to do this manually. then bring the Engine data up and look at A/F should be around 11-12 , you may need to add or deduct fuel for the exhaust you are running.
I can definitely second this post!

We tried to account for the idle dip at first by raising idle RPM, we did that up to 1600 rpm and it didn't resolve it. You could tell from the "idle-hunting" as well that something was off. The short M4 pipe and stock ignition/IAP setting below 1600 rpm did not get along even when the fueling was spot on.

My tuner then looked into ignition and IAP maps and we managed to get the bike to idle beautifully at 1300 rpm now with no more dips or idle hunting - this is with woolich racing software flashing btw.
 

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Well than party on! The kit ecu sets it to 16 or 1700 rpm.
if Running an external oil cooler, it should be around 1600-1700. I personally Like it at 1600 RPM. the problem with running it lower is running it rich and if Idle for long, it can build up. and the smell of rich exhaust is a problem for me.
 

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if Running an external oil cooler, it should be around 1600-1700. I personally Like it at 1600 RPM. the problem with running it lower is running it rich and if Idle for long, it can build up. and the smell of rich exhaust is a problem for me.
The bike comes standard with an oil cooler. My bike idles for long enough to warm up and I think the higher idle changes how the engine brake works.
 

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I AM HAVING gEN 5 IDLE PROBLEM TOO, BOUNCING FROM 1500-2500
APPARANTLY KAWI MADE IT VERY DIFFICULT TO MAINTAIN A CLEAN IDLE AFTER REMOVING SOME OF THE ANIT SMOG CRAP. I CONTACTED MY FLASH GUY WHO SHALL REMAIN NAMELESS AND IS DEALING WITH FIXES ON THIS
I SHOULD GET BACK MY ECU TODAY AND FOLLOW UP.
I ALSO UNDERSTAND THEY MADE HACKING THEIR ECU ALMOST IMPOSSIBLY COMPLICAED.
 
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