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Discussion Starter #1
Is there any way to do it? Healtech and Speedodrd don’t seem to make their modules for gen 4-5. I assume the wire harness that was previously used doesn’t exist on the new gens?
 

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I didn't think the race spec ECU can calibrate that. The Race ECU changes the dash to race mode and that doesn't display the speed at all.

There currently is no way to do what you are wanting with the exception of putting a sticker on the cluster that says "100mph indicated = 96mph actual". That will remind you do do the mental math for the other speeds. An error of 4% is well within the margin of error for the tire wear to affect it.

If you get one of the AIM dashes like the MXK10, it is switchable from measured wheel speed to GPS indicated speed. That will be your easier option.
 

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I didn't think the race spec ECU can calibrate that. The Race ECU changes the dash to race mode and that doesn't display the speed at all.

There currently is no way to do what you are wanting with the exception of putting a sticker on the cluster that says "100mph indicated = 96mph actual". That will remind you do do the mental math for the other speeds. An error of 4% is well within the margin of error for the tire wear to affect it.

If you get one of the AIM dashes like the MXK10, it is switchable from measured wheel speed to GPS indicated speed. That will be your easier option.
You're probably right. I just read it and it says it adjusts for tire circumference.

https://www.woolichracing.com/products/kawasaki/zx10r/2018/875/2016-2019-kawasaki-zx10r-krt-usb-m-v3-package.aspx
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I didn't think the race spec ECU can calibrate that. The Race ECU changes the dash to race mode and that doesn't display the speed at all.

There currently is no way to do what you are wanting with the exception of putting a sticker on the cluster that says "100mph indicated = 96mph actual". That will remind you do do the mental math for the other speeds. An error of 4% is well within the margin of error for the tire wear to affect it.

If you get one of the AIM dashes like the MXK10, it is switchable from measured wheel speed to GPS indicated speed. That will be your easier option.
I’ll check out that dash. I just wish tuning software would let you change it. I have ftecu but they said the same thing as the first reply on here, “no need because it measures at the wheel”. That’d be a pricy speedo healer but thanks for the info Dork.
 

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You're probably right. I just read it and it says it adjusts for tire circumference.

https://www.woolichracing.com/products/kawasaki/zx10r/2018/875/2016-2019-kawasaki-zx10r-krt-usb-m-v3-package.aspx
I haven't tried adjusting the tire circumference to see if it affects the speed. Those values I think are used to adjust the traction control to make it work better for different tire sizes used in racing.

I’ll check out that dash. I just wish tuning software would let you change it. I have ftecu but they said the same thing as the first reply on here, “no need because it measures at the wheel”. That’d be a pricy speedo healer but thanks for the info Dork.
Well, if you can swing the $1,149 price of the MXK10, you won't be disappointed in it! It's nice! But that's a lot of money for just a speedometer. Remember, the error is built into the unit on the high end of range so people will be going slightly slower than indicated when the officer radars or lases you and turns on the flashers. There would be other legal issues if there wasn't some sort of margin of error built into it when the new rider goes off the road in a curve because the "speedometer only said I was going 40mph!".

The software doesn't adjust it most likely because it's not in the ECU. Reflashing the ECU only affects the components that it has control of. You can't make the assumption that the ECU sends the speed value to the instrument cluster. It is more likely that just the pulse counter value is sent to it and the equation for speed is in the cluster firmware itself. You'd have to reflash the instrument cluster to change that, not the ECU. I suspect that's why it hasn't been cracked at this point.

The error will get larger as the tire wears down. It will have to spin faster to keep you going the same speed with the reduced circumference. Put a larger tire on the rear and it will read slightly slow.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I haven't tried adjusting the tire circumference to see if it affects the speed. Those values I think are used to adjust the traction control to make it work better for different tire sizes used in racing.



Well, if you can swing the $1,149 price of the MXK10, you won't be disappointed in it! It's nice! But that's a lot of money for just a speedometer. Remember, the error is built into the unit on the high end of range so people will be going slightly slower than indicated when the officer radars or lases you and turns on the flashers. There would be other legal issues if there wasn't some sort of margin of error built into it when the new rider goes off the road in a curve because the "speedometer only said I was going 40mph!".

The software doesn't adjust it most likely because it's not in the ECU. Reflashing the ECU only affects the components that it has control of. You can't make the assumption that the ECU sends the speed value to the instrument cluster. It is more likely that just the pulse counter value is sent to it and the equation for speed is in the cluster firmware itself. You'd have to reflash the instrument cluster to change that, not the ECU. I suspect that's why it hasn't been cracked at this point.

The error will get larger as the tire wears down. It will have to spin faster to keep you going the same speed with the reduced circumference. Put a larger tire on the rear and it will read slightly slow.
I just had one more thought that may be pretty unorthodox but the speed sensor reads from the slotted ABS pickup ring on the rear rotor right? I counted that it has 52 notches. If I made a new ring somehow that had 50 notches in the same diameter do you think that would produce what I’m looking for?
 

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I just had one more thought that may be pretty unorthodox but the speed sensor reads from the slotted ABS pickup ring on the rear rotor right? I counted that it has 52 notches. If I made a new ring somehow that had 50 notches in the same diameter do you think that would produce what I’m looking for?
Yes, the sensor ring on the rear wheel is used for the speed.

That has been brought up before back when the bike came out. In theory, that should work to recut a new sensor ring with the proper spacing. It's not just the number of notches, but the width of them and the spacing between. Provided of course, that you only ever ride it with the traction control turned off. Otherwise, it will intervene very frequently and/or all the time as it detects a wheel speed difference between the front and rear. If you go that route, you'll have to do both rings the same way. In my opinion, that's not worth the hassle to correct a measly 4%, which is less than 3mph at freeway speeds.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Yes, the sensor ring on the rear wheel is used for the speed.

That has been brought up before back when the bike came out. In theory, that should work to recut a new sensor ring with the proper spacing. It's not just the number of notches, but the width of them and the spacing between. Provided of course, that you only ever ride it with the traction control turned off. Otherwise, it will intervene very frequently and/or all the time as it detects a wheel speed difference between the front and rear. If you go that route, you'll have to do both rings the same way. In my opinion, that's not worth the hassle to correct a measly 4%, which is less than 3mph at freeway speeds.
True, I didn’t think about the disparity it would cause between wheels. The bike would think it’s constantly in a stoppie and it would probably activate the ABS pump trying to correct it. I guess I’ll live with it. Thanks for making that point before I tried it.
 

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Woolich ecu flash, you just need to set up the tire diameter correctly. Its a area in the settings that's pretty straightforward. I had to do it when I went up to a 200/60 rear from the 19/55 stock tire size. It also helps with traction control when you make the setting dialed in correctly but my bike used to show 83 when at 80, now it shows 80 when at 80. Pretty damn spot on if u ask me
 

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Fyi. Nothing wrong with the bike telling you that you are going a bit faster than you are. Just keeps you from getting speeding tickets as easily
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Fyi. Nothing wrong with the bike telling you that you are going a bit faster than you are. Just keeps you from getting speeding tickets as easily
I probably spend less than 20% of my time on any bike at or below the speed limit and oddly enough haven’t had a ticket yet in my 10 years of riding. I understand the sentiment but on a personal level it just bugs the hell out of me. I’ve worked in metrology for a couple factories and having uncalibrated equipment is the worst.
 

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I probably spend less than 20% of my time on any bike at or below the speed limit and oddly enough haven’t had a ticket yet in my 10 years of riding. I understand the sentiment but on a personal level it just bugs the hell out of me. I’ve worked in metrology for a couple factories and having uncalibrated equipment is the worst.
I get that, was just trying to find a positive side to it. The way manufactures do it is in compliance with the government. They mandated that the speed shown is never lower than the actual speed and could be off as much as 5% so the speedo can show you going 5% faster than you are actually going but that is at some low ass speed. Don't remember what it was. 65 or some shit. Anyhow that's the get down
 
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