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Discussion Starter #1
On my third rear tire in 3900 miles and my rear caliper just felt apart!

The first two rear wheel changes went fine, but this time the pads and shim just fell out. I tried putting it all back together but it is just such a bad design it keeps falling apart.

I assume you can't remove the caliper , install the rear wheel, then reinstall the caliper, due to the pin design?

It pretty sad that you have to take the bike to a dealer to put the rear caliper together:(

My s1000rr has the same design but i have never had this many issues where after two hours it will not stay together!

Who makes a cheap two piston rear caliper for the gen 5?
 

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I'm at a complete loss as to how the caliper "can just fall apart". The pads are retained via a pin with a screw in plug. So, not sure how they can fall out on their own.

You certainly can rebuild it yourself without taking it to a dealer, but I have no real idea what's wrong with your atm.

I've done too many rear wheel removals and installations on my G4 to count up. Just did one yesterday to install captive spacers. Never have to the touch the caliper itself. The entire mounting bracket and caliper come off and never an issue.

I suppose you could go with a Brembo or something on the back. Or a used G4 one. :dontknow:
 

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Discussion Starter #3
They fell out of the groove, but were held in with the pin so they were hanging. The shim also fell out.

It even took my mechanic friend about 30 minutes just to get the pads and shim to stay in the caliper, he also said it was a POS design.

Last time i use the stock POS!
 

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They fell out of the groove, but were held in with the pin so they were hanging. The shim also fell out.

It even took my mechanic friend about 30 minutes just to get the pads and shim to stay in the caliper, he also said it was a POS design.

Last time i use the stock POS!
I'm going to go out on a limb and say that you're the only one who's had this happen to. I've never heard of such a thing.

Did you over heat them or something? The shim isn't separate from the pad backing. It should be integrated and shouldn't come out. Or are you talking about the pad spring and guide? I'm still really confused by this. The Gen 4 rear caliper is EXACTLY the same. There's been no talk of this ever happening before on here.
 
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On my third rear tire in 3900 miles and my rear caliper just felt apart!

The first two rear wheel changes went fine, but this time the pads and shim just fell out. I tried putting it all back together but it is just such a bad design it keeps falling apart.

I assume you can't remove the caliper , install the rear wheel, then reinstall the caliper, due to the pin design?

It pretty sad that you have to take the bike to a dealer to put the rear caliper together:(

My s1000rr has the same design but i have never had this many issues where after two hours it will not stay together!

Who makes a cheap two piston rear caliper for the gen 5?
With all respect...I get the idea you may be new to this? Agree with SkyDork, never heard of such a thing, cannot even conceive of what you describe and have had scores of bikes, removed same number of rear calipers hundreds of times, never seen one fail let alone fall apart.

If it fell apart, well, we need some images to start with and we could take it from there.

Second point that comes to mind, why would you want to replace it with a cheap caliper? World-class bike, needs a good caliper. The one on my Gen 5 is a beauty, thus far.

More info please.
 

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I'm guessing either a defective caliper or defective/incorrect pads. I've had no problems with either my GEN4 or GEN5 and have had the wheels on and off the GEN5 many times now.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
With all respect...I get the idea you may be new to this? Agree with SkyDork, never heard of such a thing, cannot even conceive of what you describe and have had scores of bikes, removed same number of rear calipers hundreds of times, never seen one fail let alone fall apart.

If it fell apart, well, we need some images to start with and we could take it from there.

Second point that comes to mind, why would you want to replace it with a cheap caliper? World-class bike, needs a good caliper. The one on my Gen 5 is a beauty, thus far.

More info please.
I have been changing rear tires for 40 years! My BMW s1000rr has a similar design for the rear caliper, which i have had for 5 years, and the pads only fell out the groove once, and it took about 5 minutes to get them back in.

My mechanic had to manipulate / bend the metal shim to finally get it to work.

Cheap as in not $650.00 Brembo CNC, a two piece Brembo cast one will work. The one on the Kawasaki is a cheap Nissin caliper, NOT world class.

WSB zx10 is very different from the ones we get. Frame has extra bracing, different swing arm etc.....
 

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He's not crazy, I've had this happen. On my ZX10, on my buddies brand new R1, my old CBR, etc...

To the OP, you have to be a little easier when pulling the wheel out. The caliper slides on a pin. And the pads sit in a groove that has an opening in the middle. So if you bump the caliper when you're pulling the wheel out or putting it back in, the caliper can slide out (towards the right) on the guide pin. Which will put the outer pad in the section of the groove so it falls out. And it won't stay in unless you slide the caliper back in on the guide.

Twist the wheel on an angle when you're pulling it out.

Also, put a spring between the pads on the brake pad pin, it will help to hold the pads out and keep it out of the opening.

I've seen some other tricks on Suzuki's where they could safety wire the back (inside) of the guide to prevent the caliper from sliding (unintended) on the guide. But I've never actually done it.

It can be a pain, at a race at JGP I watched my buddy fight his R1 for probably 20 mins having the pads fall out over and over because he was rushing, because we had a race coming up.

I've watch AMA crews have the same problem. Pay a little more attention, go a little slower and you'll have far better time.
 

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The pads can fall out of the caliper if you try to rush a wheel change. I've done it, and its a nuisance. Seems to get more difficult as my level of frustration goes up.

Things like captive wheel spacers, a captive caliper bracket and a spring holding the pads apart all help make rear tire changes much simpler.

The biggest "cheat code" that I've found is the pitbull tire wedge. Absolute life saver.

I haven't had to deal with pads falling out in a while, but from what I remember you can just take the pads out of the caliper, put the wheel back on and then put the pads back in.
 

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I'm not exactly sure what's moving on the rear brake but there are a couple of tricks you can do to ease the wheel installation. I find installing the rear wheel a PITA, but that's just me.

You can put small spring(s) on the pin(s) that locate your brake pads. This will keep the pads pushed back against the pistons so the disk has maximum gap at all times.

Put a small leading edge on the bottom edge of the brake pads so the disk is not trying to align on a sharp corner.

Add captive spacers to your wheel.

If you have access to a small drill press you can pin the right side chain adjuster to the rear brake caliper bracket. This will hold the right side in place which makes removing and installing the rear wheel a lot easier.
 

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np's on g4's rear brake but have that problem in the past on two different supers, but can't remember which ones. Both times one pad slipped out.
 
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