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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey all, the Search button hasn't been extremely good to me, haven't been able to find the info I'm looking for.

For general street use, no hooliganism or 5th gear wheelies, but what's the best gearing option to give it some grunt off the lower to mid-range power curve?

Oh, while I have your attention and again to save me the hour of searching, can someone point me in the direction of a recommended Speedo healer?

Thanks!
 

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I always go -1/+1 or -1/+2 on all my bikes. Went -1/+1 for my gen4. 6th was way too tall with stock gearing, almost never used it below 90-100. It's still a little tall, but useable. Honestly, I wish I had gone -1/+2, since that will still work with a stock length chain.

I would recommend -1/+2.

You won't need a speedo healer since the speed comes off the wheel sensors.
 

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If it's anything like the 4th gen (and I do believe it is) a -1/+2 is almost overkill. I might go -1/+3 on my next round just to see if I can make mine power wheelie in 3rd but I fear that 1st gear will just be too crazy at that point. Even now with my -1/+2 I have to be really careful with my initial 1st gear wheelie of the day since it comes up so quick that I'm at 12 o'clock before my brain has time to calibrate.
 
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I recently went through the dilemma of trying out and deciding on which gearing setup is best for me for street riding for my 2017 ZX10R. In the past 2-3 months I've tried and tested 17/40, 16/39, 16/40 and 16/41 gearing combos and quite frankly I'm digging the 16/41(-1/+2) over all the other setups. It gives me that low/mid range pep that I've been looking for since owning the bike. I own a ZX14R and I'm accustomed to high torque levels in the low RPM range, and I found myself not riding my 10R as much since I fell in love with the instant get up and go that the 14R delivers. Ever since I changed the 10R over to the 16/41 setup it's like a different bike that I've fell back in love with, giving me all the pep I want and need throughout the entire rpm range. Of course with this setup I had to sacrifice 20 MPH of top speed, but I've rarely seen anything over 175 during my entire time of owning the bike so it was a easy choice.

I read countless threads stating that -1/+2 was the go to setup but I wanted to take baby steps and ease my way up to that setup and then make a decision afterwards based on my real life experiences with these setups. From here on out this will be my permanent setup unless of course I have different goals that warrants me to change sprockets ,e.g., LSR.

In regards to wheelies, I'm pretty sure it will wheelie on command but that's not my cup of tea and they have been easy to avoid because of throttle control. I've always rolled into the throttle and then chop it and I've yet to encounter any wheelies with this setup.
 

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If it's anything like the 4th gen (and I do believe it is) a -1/+2 is almost overkill. I might go -1/+3 on my next round just to see if I can make mine power wheelie in 3rd but I fear that 1st gear will just be too crazy at that point. Even now with my -1/+2 I have to be really careful with my initial 1st gear wheelie of the day since it comes up so quick that I'm at 12 o'clock before my brain has time to calibrate.
Do you have tcs/wheelie control turned off? Even at level 1, it may lift the front a couple inches in 1st at wot, but it won't flip.
 

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I recently went through the dilemma of trying out and deciding on which gearing setup is best for me for street riding for my 2017 ZX10R. In the past 2-3 months I've tried and tested 17/40, 16/39, 16/40 and 16/41 gearing combos and quite frankly I'm digging the 16/41(-1/+2) over all the other setups. It gives me that low/mid range pep that I've been looking for since owning the bike. I own a ZX14R and I'm accustomed to high torque levels in the low RPM range, and I found myself not riding my 10R as much since I fell in love with the instant get up and go that the 14R delivers. Ever since I changed the 10R over to the 16/41 setup it's like a different bike that I've fell back in love with, giving me all the pep I want and need throughout the entire rpm range. Of course with this setup I had to sacrifice 20 MPH of top speed, but I've rarely seen anything over 175 during my entire time of owning the bike so it was a easy choice.

I read countless threads stating that -1/+2 was the go to setup but I wanted to take baby steps and ease my way up to that setup and then make a decision afterwards based on my real life experiences with these setups. From here on out this will be my permanent setup unless of course I have different goals that warrants me to change sprockets ,e.g., LSR.

In regards to wheelies, I'm pretty sure it will wheelie on command but that's not my cup of tea and they have been easy to avoid because of throttle control. I've always rolled into the throttle and then chop it and I've yet to encounter any wheelies with this setup.
Zed X,
I am running 16/39 on my Gen 4 now and I am thinking of changing to a 40 tooth rear. What difference did you notice between the 40 and 41 with the 16 front?

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I recently went through the dilemma of trying out and deciding on which gearing setup is best for me for street riding for my 2017 ZX10R. In the past 2-3 months I've tried and tested 17/40, 16/39, 16/40 and 16/41 gearing combos and quite frankly I'm digging the 16/41(-1/+2) over all the other setups. It gives me that low/mid range pep that I've been looking for since owning the bike. I own a ZX14R and I'm accustomed to high torque levels in the low RPM range, and I found myself not riding my 10R as much since I fell in love with the instant get up and go that the 14R delivers. Ever since I changed the 10R over to the 16/41 setup it's like a different bike that I've fell back in love with, giving me all the pep I want and need throughout the entire rpm range. Of course with this setup I had to sacrifice 20 MPH of top speed, but I've rarely seen anything over 175 during my entire time of owning the bike so it was a easy choice.

I read countless threads stating that -1/+2 was the go to setup but I wanted to take baby steps and ease my way up to that setup and then make a decision afterwards based on my real life experiences with these setups. From here on out this will be my permanent setup unless of course I have different goals that warrants me to change sprockets ,e.g., LSR.

In regards to wheelies, I'm pretty sure it will wheelie on command but that's not my cup of tea and they have been easy to avoid because of throttle control. I've always rolled into the throttle and then chop it and I've yet to encounter any wheelies with this setup.
Thank you for that thorough breakdown and history! I feel like you saved me a ton of money by doing all the trial & error I was possibly going to have to do.
I’m in the same wheelie boat camp as you, I don’t mind if it lifts a little hitting the torque curve, but that’s about it.
Thanks Zed!
 

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Zed X,
I am running 16/39 on my Gen 4 now and I am thinking of changing to a 40 tooth rear. What difference did you notice between the 40 and 41 with the 16 front?

Thanks
The difference between the 40 and 41 was very mild. The biggest WOW factor was when I changed the front to a 16T.
 

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The difference between the 40 and 41 was very mild. The biggest WOW factor was when I changed the front to a 16T.
Ok thanks for the info. Trying to decide if I want to go 40 or 41 tooth.
 

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Do you have tcs/wheelie control turned off? Even at level 1, it may lift the front a couple inches in 1st at wot, but it won't flip.
I ride full time on TC1. I'm pretty sure that if I chop the throttle good enough I can pull a wheelie in 1st-3rd easily.
 

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Ok thanks for the info. Trying to decide if I want to go 40 or 41 tooth.
If you were to go 40 first and then went with a 41 you'd be hard pressed to tell a difference. Now if you were to go from a 39 to a 41 then yes you'll notice a slight difference. Since going -1 up front equates to the 3 teeth up in the rear....that's where your best bang for your buck lies.
 

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If you were to go 40 first and then went with a 41 you'd be hard pressed to tell a difference. Now if you were to go from a 39 to a 41 then yes you'll notice a slight difference. Since going -1 up front equates to the 3 teeth up in the rear....that's where your best bang for your buck lies.
Yea....I have gone down to a 16 up front and I want to change the back now. I just don't want to kill my top end or feel like 1st gear is way to low. I have been looking at the gearing calculator, but wanted an opinion from someone who has experimented.
Thanks
 

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Yea....I have gone down to a 16 up front and I want to change the back now. I just don't want to kill my top end or feel like 1st gear is way to low. I have been looking at the gearing calculator, but wanted an opinion from someone who has experimented.
Thanks
The biggest hit to top speed is going to be going -1 up front, and then every tooth added in the rear costs an additional 5 MPH. Typically if you're concerned about losing a ton of top speed it's best to leave front at 17T and just add 1 tooth to the rear until you get your desired effect.

Initially I was concerned about top speed and then I thought about how many times I've exceeded 170+mph. Which I can count on one hand. I rarely see those speeds unless I specifically set out to do a top speed run. Since I spend 99.5% of my time below 180mph it made my decision to gear down easier. Now if I ever decide that I want to do a few top speed runs, then I'll slap my 17/39 sprockets back on. YMMV
 

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Do you have tcs/wheelie control turned off? Even at level 1, it may lift the front a couple inches in 1st at wot, but it won't flip.
Balance point wheelies have always been my thing and so for me TC is always off unless I'm riding in the rain with a worn tire or in near freezing temps. It's just that for my first ride and wheelie of the day, my throttle muscle memory is off and I can grab too much if I'm in 1st gear (2nd isn't a problem). Normally I grab full throttle to get lift off, smoothly transition right up to balance point and keep my wheelie there. With -1/+2 and a lack of concentration, I can end up lifting up so suddenly that I pass beyond the balance point and instinctively chop the throttle. This wasn't really the case with stock gearing and seldom with -1/0. However, now that I'm running -1/+2 I have to be pretty careful with 1st gear wheelies. Normal street riding is quite good with -1/+2.
 

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This is a great tool in figuring out what a gearing change would make.

OEM VS current VS new gearing option.

I was on a - 1 but I've gone back to the +0 and kept the +3 on the rear.
 

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Dropping front sprockets can affect motorcycle pitch under hard acceleration.
A brief idea from adjustable swingarm pivot here, showing it's relative position to the front sprocket and it's effects.

Smaller front sprocket (reduced diameter) is akin to adding more anti-squat.
Correct me if I'm wrong.

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I recently went through the dilemma of trying out and deciding on which gearing setup is best for me for street riding for my 2017 ZX10R. In the past 2-3 months I've tried and tested 17/40, 16/39, 16/40 and 16/41 gearing combos and quite frankly I'm digging the 16/41(-1/+2) over all the other setups. It gives me that low/mid range pep that I've been looking for since owning the bike. I own a ZX14R and I'm accustomed to high torque levels in the low RPM range, and I found myself not riding my 10R as much since I fell in love with the instant get up and go that the 14R delivers. Ever since I changed the 10R over to the 16/41 setup it's like a different bike that I've fell back in love with, giving me all the pep I want and need throughout the entire rpm range. Of course with this setup I had to sacrifice 20 MPH of top speed, but I've rarely seen anything over 175 during my entire time of owning the bike so it was a easy choice.

I read countless threads stating that -1/+2 was the go to setup but I wanted to take baby steps and ease my way up to that setup and then make a decision afterwards based on my real life experiences with these setups. From here on out this will be my permanent setup unless of course I have different goals that warrants me to change sprockets ,e.g., LSR.

In regards to wheelies, I'm pretty sure it will wheelie on command but that's not my cup of tea and they have been easy to avoid because of throttle control. I've always rolled into the throttle and then chop it and I've yet to encounter any wheelies with this setup.
Hello sir! Just curios about the 16/39 setup. . . what can you tell me about that set? How does it "feel"? Because that is the one I want to try. I'm trying to maintain my good mpg, and hoping to make the bike a little quicker. (I'm avr'g 33mpg now, with the factory 17/39).
 

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Hello sir! Just curios about the 16/39 setup. . . what can you tell me about that set? How does it "feel"? Because that is the one I want to try. I'm trying to maintain my good mpg, and hoping to make the bike a little quicker. (I'm avr'g 33mpg now, with the factory 17/39).
It'll make a minor change.

However, please understand, these are Superbikes. They are deigned with a purpose.

Mpg and comfort are lower on the riority list when it comes to these class of bikes.

If you alter the gearing like that, there will be a change in Mpg if you are wanting to accelerate faster at the expense of one top end.

It's inevitable.
 

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Hello sir! Just curios about the 16/39 setup. . . what can you tell me about that set? How does it "feel"? Because that is the one I want to try. I'm trying to maintain my good mpg, and hoping to make the bike a little quicker. (I'm avr'g 33mpg now, with the factory 17/39).
Changing to a 16/39 setup from stock(17/39) will feel dramatically better(acceleration wise) with that "wow" moment since it's like going up 2.5/3 teeth in the rear. As I added teeth to the rear, 16/40 and then 16/41, those changes were more subtle.

To be honest I never track my MPG and just fill up when my fuel light comes on, but like BH mentioned, you're bound to lose MPG when you run taller gearing. Also top end speed will be affected by running taller gearing, with the biggest hit deriving from moving from a 17T front to a 16T.
 
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It'll make a minor change.

However, please understand, these are Superbikes. They are deigned with a purpose.

Mpg and comfort are lower on the riority list when it comes to these class of bikes.

If you alter the gearing like that, there will be a change in Mpg if you are wanting to accelerate faster at the expense of one top end.

It's inevitable.
Hello B.H. !! thank you for adding your thoughts on my question! I appreciate that, and I agree with what you offer. I did "expect" to lose a little mpg. Also, like most responsible "street" riders, I don't need ALL the potential "top end"(over 175mph) speeds, a ZX-10r is capable of providing. I don't want to go to jail, or have my bike impounded, or sacrifice my life attempting a rural 200mph "pull". So there is no "losing top end" sadness with me. To be honest with you, I'm actually "on the fence" about the gearing change. In my opinion, the bike is NOT boring to ride through the city, as is! I bought it KNOWING, it's design intention. Thank you again, for adding in. (y)
 
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