Kawasaki ZX-10R Forum banner

1 - 20 of 20 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hello All,

Have a gen 5, have the woolich USB box, just pikced up a graves slip on, can anyone point me in the direction of a flash I can download, or what I have to do to "tune" for the slip on?

I will also be taking out the intake blade and all the things like people recommend.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
55 Posts
Slip on or 3/4 system? I don't think a slip on would make any difference whatsoever other than weight. There are maps on the woolich site for various combinations. The maps are customer submitted and the vetting process is unclear, so take them with a grain of salt. Also many of them reference a specific air filter and fuel octane. Read the notes. I'm brand new to woolich, so I'm learning this stuff as I go. I also noticed things in advanced settings like O2 sensor delete, pair delete, etc don't seem to stay in the bin file when it's downloaded from the woolich site and applied to your map. But I might be doing it wrong.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
I'm only doing a slip on for now. I've tuned cars before, so at least I'm familiar with the whole process, I just dont know where to start with bikes and want to learn. I'm not a hardcore racer, just looking to do the usual mods and have a few innocent track days.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
55 Posts
I'm sure someone will correct me if I'm wrong, but a slip on doesn't add power or need tuning so far as I know. You're better off spending the cash on a full body tattoo of a good looking person. At least I would be.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
From what I've read if you do a cat delete/slip on, it requires a tune or it runs too rich...something along those lines.. Was just checking with the forum to make sure. When everything is fly by wire and electronically controlled it needs calibrated to run properly.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
55 Posts
We might be confused here. My gen 5 has a three piece. The headers, which look to have a cat welded to them under the engine, a mid pipe with a muffler that might have additional cats in it, and the end can (I call that a slip on) which is just a straight through tube for some additional noise abatement. If you get a straight through mid pipe to go with the slip on, what I called a 3/4 system, though really more like 2/3, then you'll have something to work with, not the least of which should be a properly sized O2 bung for fitting the woolich auto tune kit. If you don't want to go for the auto tune hardware, at least 2 maps can be had on the woolich mapshare page for a graves "3/4" system. Being a natural skeptic, I would want to ask Woolich their opinion of the effect that forward cat has on the accuracy of AFR readings.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
24 Posts
So did you delete the cat? I out a graves slip on on my 16 and it deleted the cat. Looking to get a tune also. I have the log box on the way and am totally lost. Haha. If I dial in a map I'll let you know for sure. Have you come across any other settings people recommend from the software? I have to so block off plates to tune it. Not looking forward to that.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
63 Posts
What year is your “Gen 5”? Mine is a 2019 and the ECU is different that the earlier ECU’s. This means you cannot upload the BIN file for the pre 2019 bikes into my ECU. If yours is a 2019 I uploaded a BIN file for my setup, which is,

Intake flap delete
K&N air filter
Cat delete
M4 GP slip-on
Exhaust flap delete


There are changes in the Flash to open the ETV to 100% at WOT in the upper RPM range.

So far it has been working perfectly for my race bike. My bet is if you have the Cat delete it will work well on yours too.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
24 Posts
What year is your “Gen 5”? Mine is a 2019 and the ECU is different that the earlier ECU’s. This means you cannot upload the BIN file for the pre 2019 bikes into my ECU. If yours is a 2019 I uploaded a BIN file for my setup, which is,

Intake flap delete
K&N air filter
Cat delete
M4 GP slip-on
Exhaust flap delete


There are changes in the Flash to open the ETV to 100% at WOT in the upper RPM range.

So far it has been working perfectly for my race bike. My bet is if you have the Cat delete it will work well on yours too.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
mine is a 16. What intake and exhaust flap did you delete? And did you delete it or program it to stay open?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
I have the woolich box, I just set everything to stay open via software. with the Slip on exhaust the servo is gone for the exhaust flap so you have to deactivate it anyways. with Woolich you can just click a box to do that and don't need to bother with installing a part spoofer.

As far as tuning for a slip on, i was looking for a bin file to mod so I dont run rich on fuel or whatever since the cat is gone.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
966 Posts
I have the woolich box, I just set everything to stay open via software. with the Slip on exhaust the servo is gone for the exhaust flap so you have to deactivate it anyways. with Woolich you can just click a box to do that and don't need to bother with installing a part spoofer.

As far as tuning for a slip on, i was looking for a bin file to mod so I dont run rich on fuel or whatever since the cat is gone.
Pulling the cat will lean it out not richen it just as an FYI, It will flow more air.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
63 Posts
mine is a 16. What intake and exhaust flap did you delete? And did you delete it or program it to stay open?
I deleted them in the software and removed the hardware from the bike.

The exhaust servo is built into the cat so when I did the cat delete it was gone. I removed the servo and cables. There is a flap in the intake and I removed it and all of the associated hardware.

Sent from my SM-G935R4 using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
24 Posts
mine is a 16. What intake and exhaust flap did you delete? And did you delete it or program it to stay open?
I deleted them in the software and removed the hardware from the bike.

The exhaust servo is built into the cat so when I did the cat delete it was gone. I removed the servo and cables. There is a flap in the intake and I removed it and all of the associated hardware.

Sent from my SM-G935R4 using Tapatalk
How was tje removal of the intake flap process? Any guides to it?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,736 Posts
If you wasap me today, I can send you a pic of the map I use with my clients, I made it in a dyno.... Im at work, and left the laptop to tune home.


not much change in this bikes with filter and slip on, regarding fuel, this bikes are just nice to work...

8297665466...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
350 Posts
the intake or ram air flap is pretty easy to just disable, doesn't hurt to pull it though and there is a vid on YouTube of them doing it. Worth a search if your unsure. if you are doing a cat delete go ahead and get an air filter to allow it to breath better while your at it. With the woolich software you can also set the temp that the fan comes on and off at to be lower, raise the rev limiter. there are mixed feelings about that, I have mine up to 14,400 most of my friends are at 14,200. Disable the o2 sensor regardless of what you do so the bike doesn't try to override your tune. Do the block offs and emmision removal unless you enjoy crazy popping on decel, and find a map that is as close to wmthe mods you have to work with as a baseline. be sure you have a solid Internet connection for the flash and nothing else open on the laptop. I had to buy a new bin file over the weekend cause my connection was dropped and I wasn't able to write to the ECU again without doing so, Monday through Friday you can call them and they will fix it and after hours email support is quick too but weekends it is kinda a crap shoot as to response time. they already refunded me for the extra bin so I'm ok with it. also, enable auto blip since you have an earlier gen 5 and it isn't enabled from the factory, just make small adjustments when you tune so you don't do anything crazy, I used the Austin racing on my 17 and 18 year zx10r's if you do just be ready to adjust the bottom end of the maps to prevent stalling and also raise the idle rpm up a bit too otherwise it seems to stall when coming off of higher throttle and won't catch itself before dropping too low. I have a map with it fixed but it is for the RR so you can't use it. I had to talk them into giving me access because I already had a tune I wanted to use on my new bike so I was given 24 hours to copy and paste values across. Seems to be nice. I gotta schedule a Dyno day now to get it dialed in better
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
24 Posts
the intake or ram air flap is pretty easy to just disable, doesn't hurt to pull it though and there is a vid on YouTube of them doing it. Worth a search if your unsure. if you are doing a cat delete go ahead and get an air filter to allow it to breath better while your at it. With the woolich software you can also set the temp that the fan comes on and off at to be lower, raise the rev limiter. there are mixed feelings about that, I have mine up to 14,400 most of my friends are at 14,200. Disable the o2 sensor regardless of what you do so the bike doesn't try to override your tune. Do the block offs and emmision removal unless you enjoy crazy popping on decel, and find a map that is as close to wmthe mods you have to work with as a baseline. be sure you have a solid Internet connection for the flash and nothing else open on the laptop. I had to buy a new bin file over the weekend cause my connection was dropped and I wasn't able to write to the ECU again without doing so, Monday through Friday you can call them and they will fix it and after hours email support is quick too but weekends it is kinda a crap shoot as to response time. they already refunded me for the extra bin so I'm ok with it. also, enable auto blip since you have an earlier gen 5 and it isn't enabled from the factory, just make small adjustments when you tune so you don't do anything crazy, I used the Austin racing on my 17 and 18 year zx10r's if you do just be ready to adjust the bottom end of the maps to prevent stalling and also raise the idle rpm up a bit too otherwise it seems to stall when coming off of higher throttle and won't catch itself before dropping too low. I have a map with it fixed but it is for the RR so you can't use it. I had to talk them into giving me access because I already had a tune I wanted to use on my new bike so I was given 24 hours to copy and paste values across. Seems to be nice. I gotta schedule a Dyno day now to get it dialed in better
Thanks for the insight. I found a map with the same exhaust with most of the tweaks I wanted so I installed it. I think it has a different air filter tho. She still runs crazy, wow. There is this thing now where when I'm in gear like first at a light with the clutch pulled in that the idle is about 3k. If I put it in neutral it drop to 15ish, but in gear it's higher. If I'm coasting in first I can not give any gas and it keeps moving. Not sure what that's about. I'll try and figure it out when I start auto tuning. the ztx goes on tomorrow with the wideband o2 sensor. Did block offs today. what a pia. haha. So I can just disable the intake flap? It won't just stay closed? or will it stay open?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
350 Posts
if it just stays closed that's news to me, I have done the just disabling thing and as far as I can tell it stays open. I don't think it would breath like it does if the flap was stuck shut. My friend is who I let actually cut and clamp the line to keep it locked open. I plan on completely removing it though, I think I need a 3d printed deal to cover the area that is left empty after I do it. Will find out tomorrow when I get my carbon fiber front fairing since I obviously need to pull the OEM one to change them. I'll try and take some pics. I have been making videos of the stuff I do and just got a new PC so I can edit all of it and will eventually get it all posted up to you tube. Kinda like a gen 5 how to series and some gear reviews and ride footage. Not trying to go thr motovlog route since most of them had zero clue about riding before they started thier shit. The rev up with the clutch in I haven't experienced yet. it only did that when I started letting out on the clutch but my current map stopped that too which blows. I'm gonna try and mix in the stock map for the lower rpm to get that back and see if it works. The bike is crazy now though right? my first and second gen 5 were way too twitchy on the throttle around town, like jerky, flashed and disabled decel fuel cut and they smoothed way out, my SE on the other hand never was like that and acts way different. I live it but it's not what I was expecting. It does have the RR ECU though so idk. take some pics when u do mods. post them up, hell write how to deals for others if you get a chance. glad you enjoy your bike.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
350 Posts
mine is a 16. What intake and exhaust flap did you delete? And did you delete it or program it to stay open?
I deleted them in the software and removed the hardware from the bike.

The exhaust servo is built into the cat so when I did the cat delete it was gone. I removed the servo and cables. There is a flap in the intake and I removed it and all of the associated hardware.

Sent from my SM-G935R4 using Tapatalk
How was tje removal of the intake flap process? Any guides to it?
um I kinda decided to do it last night, like fully remove the flap and the lines and the lil vac actuator deal. I'll make a new thread and hope no one else already did it
 
1 - 20 of 20 Posts
Top