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I had mine replaced a week ago and it's just a cast piece of metal, with a black bolt head on top. Looks like it's maybe a replacement (I never saw the old one), vs an adjustable one like I thought it would be. What does yours look like?
 

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Um, yeah. So, the cam chain tensioner isn't drastically different. From my understanding, the difference is internal with the spring force. There's no way to tell externally if it's the later version. The center bolt isn't a bolt at all. It's a cap.
 

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Um, yeah. So, the cam chain tensioner isn't drastically different. From my understanding, the difference is internal with the spring force. There's no way to tell externally if it's the later version. The center bolt isn't a bolt at all. It's a cap.
So what your saying is, the replacement tensioner is an automatic, not a manual? I just want to know if my dealer used the part that kawasaki sent them or just grabbed some used one and slapped it on my bike. My tensioner looks kinda beat up, in addition to being black, where the oem was silver.
 

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So what your saying is, the replacement tensioner is an automatic, not a manual? I just want to know if my dealer used the part that kawasaki sent them or just grabbed some used one and slapped it on my bike. My tensioner looks kinda beat up, in addition to being black, where the oem was silver.

There is no such thing as a manual tensioner - from Kawasaki that is. All manual tensioners are aftermarket only. No, both of them are non-return, automatic tensioners. You'd have to remove the CCT to see if it's been replaced. And that will require you to reset it before putting it back in, and hope that you install it correctly so you can get the tension correct without over-stressing the cams and chain or allowing too much slack in it.
 

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There is no such thing as a manual tensioner - from Kawasaki that is. All manual tensioners are aftermarket only. No, both of them are non-return, automatic tensioners. You'd have to remove the CCT to see if it's been replaced. And that will require you to reset it before putting it back in, and hope that you install it correctly so you can get the tension correct without over-stressing the cams and chain or allowing too much slack in it.
Yeah, i've replaced an automatic CCT before. Dealer told me the new tensioner (new part # not the old one), is actually the same tensioner from the older ZX10 models, what year I don't know. It honestly looks like something off a 2005. The black is all marred and pitted, hardly looks new at all.
 

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The tensioner from 2006-2010 are the same ones. The tensioner from 2011-2018 are the same ones, with the exception of the 2016 version. Still doesn't matter though, they are all non-return, automatic plunger type adjusters. The '16 was redesigned and they went back to the older ones to make it work a bit better since a few of them had problems taking up the slack.
 

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There is no such thing as a manual tensioner - from Kawasaki that is. All manual tensioners are aftermarket only. No, both of them are non-return, automatic tensioners. You'd have to remove the CCT to see if it's been replaced. And that will require you to reset it before putting it back in, and hope that you install it correctly so you can get the tension correct without over-stressing the cams and chain or allowing too much slack in it.

Actually yes there is such a thing, all the KAWASAKI Race Kit tensioners are manual. Gotcha on that 1 Skydork. However, I digress, you are talking about what comes stock on the bike and yes they are all autos lol.

I have the Kawasaki OEM "KIT" manual one on my bike. Bought it from Greenman43 from OZ several years ago.
 

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Actually yes there is such a thing, all the KAWASAKI Race Kit tensioners are manual. Gotcha on that 1 Skydork. However, I digress, you are talking about what comes stock on the bike and yes they are all autos lol.

I have the Kawasaki OEM "KIT" manual one on my bike. Bought it from Greenman43 from OZ several years ago.

Awww, man. I knew someone would go Stock or Race Kit on me. :badteeth: I need to read better and phrase my responses better. You have my rep for catching me on that one. Nice! :thumbsup:
 

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Awww, man. I knew someone would go Stock or Race Kit on me. :badteeth: I need to read better and phrase my responses better. You have my rep for catching me on that one. Nice! :thumbsup:
Skydork, is there any benefit to a manual tensioner like the one from APE, vs the replacement one provided by the dealer?
 

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Skydork, is there any benefit to a manual tensioner like the one from APE, vs the replacement one provided by the dealer?

Functionally, no. The only real benefit is being able to quickly and easily adjust the tension when the head has been off or swapping cams often. For racing scenarios where engine disassembly happens a lot, a manual tensioner has its advantages. On a street bike, a manual tensioner is overkill and most people don't properly adjust it anyway. They just keep torquing it until it's "tight" and that can overstress the chain, chain guides, cams, and crank.
 

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You would think by now the Japs would be able to make a decent cam chain tensioner and regulator rectifiers, but it just seems year after year after year some jap manufacterer has some issues with these 2 items. It boggles the mind really. :dontknow:
 

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Functionally, no. The only real benefit is being able to quickly and easily adjust the tension when the head has been off or swapping cams often. For racing scenarios where engine disassembly happens a lot, a manual tensioner has its advantages. On a street bike, a manual tensioner is overkill and most people don't properly adjust it anyway. They just keep torquing it until it's "tight" and that can overstress the chain, chain guides, cams, and crank.
Somewhat disagree, race teams use manuals because the auto ones "can" back off slightly at very high max revs when backing off the throttle causing severe engine damage where manual ones will not. That really is the one advantage, under racing conditions.
 

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You would think by now the Japs would be able to make a decent cam chain tensioner and regulator rectifiers, but it just seems year after year after year some jap manufacterer has some issues with these 2 items. It boggles the mind really. :dontknow:
Gear driven cams from the crankshaft a la Honda VFR , pretty much maintenance free, but slightly noisier :smile2:
 

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Somewhat disagree, race teams use manuals because the auto ones "can" back off slightly at very high max revs when backing off the throttle causing severe engine damage where manual ones will not. That really is the one advantage, under racing conditions.

It wouldn't be right if you didn't disagree with me! That's the stuff that keeps the discussions going and the way knowledge is shared! :wink: :notworthy:



Gear driven cams from the crankshaft a la Honda VFR , pretty much maintenance free, but slightly noisier :smile2:

That's one way to go! The better option might be a hydraulic tensioner. But on race bikes, less weight and less complexity is the goal and neither of those would achieve that.
 
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