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I have a '16 Gen 5 ABS that I love but really don't love the ABS.. For those that know, is it a matter of simply pulling two fuses under the seat to disable it with no side effects, like I read you can do on the Gen 4's? Or does the Gen 5 with the IMU and new electronics make this impossible?
 

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You can leave the ABS unit installed and plugged in,remove the lines that come off of it, and plug the holes with either small hardware or silicone. Buy steel braided lines for a non abs bike and install them from the master cylinders directly to the calipers like they would on a non abs model. Only thing you can't remove is the ABS unit itself. If you leave that plugged in, your dash won't throw any codes.


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You can leave the ABS unit installed and plugged in,remove the lines that come off of it, and plug the holes with either small hardware or silicone. Buy steel braided lines for a non abs bike and install them from the master cylinders directly to the calipers like they would on a non abs model. Only thing you can't remove is the ABS unit itself. If you leave that plugged in, your dash won't throw any codes.


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Glad to find this - may be picking up a second Gen 5 as my street bike just got totaled today by someone making an illegal U-turn into my lane. Their insurance isn't even bothering to put up a fight yet (no reason to, besides it being pretty clear cut I have it all on video), and my dealer has a couple ABS models that are marked way down, but I'd disable that as quick as I could, was wondering if it was a relatively easy thing to do.
 

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Glad to find this - may be picking up a second Gen 5 as my street bike just got totaled today by someone making an illegal U-turn into my lane. Their insurance isn't even bothering to put up a fight yet (no reason to, besides it being pretty clear cut I have it all on video), and my dealer has a couple ABS models that are marked way down, but I'd disable that as quick as I could, was wondering if it was a relatively easy thing to do.


Glad you’re posting about it and that you’re ok! You’ve been lucky so far haven’t ya?!

In theory it’s all easy. Remove the lines, plug the module. But some of the fittings in the rear are extremely soft, and if you strip them or god forbid crush them, you’ll be having a “fun” time removing it the rest of he way.

Grab some beer and take your time. It’ll be a nice little one day project!

Been thinking about picking up a gen 5...................... but I like not having payments for things I drive and ride at the moment! And my gen 4 only has about 2,600 miles on it since I was deployed a lot shortly after buying it.

Oh well.... Let’s see how much longer I can be a good boy.


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Glad you’re posting about it and that you’re ok! You’ve been lucky so far haven’t ya?!

In theory it’s all easy. Remove the lines, plug the module. But some of the fittings in the rear are extremely soft, and if you strip them or god forbid crush them, you’ll be having a “fun” time removing it the rest of he way.

Grab some beer and take your time. It’ll be a nice little one day project!

Been thinking about picking up a gen 5...................... but I like not having payments for things I drive and ride at the moment! And my gen 4 only has about 2,600 miles on it since I was deployed a lot shortly after buying it.

Oh well.... Let’s see how much longer I can be a good boy.


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Hahaha, thank for the warning, i will keep that in mind! And yes, I'm fine, couple bruises but I don't think they're anything more than that. He has AAA insurance, so they seem to be pretty efficient and easy to work with. Claiming 100% their responsibility.

The Gen 5 are amazing. Love that beast. Despite my frustrations trying to get fast on it, but that's not the bikes fault anymore :wink:
 

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Hahaha, thank for the warning, i will keep that in mind! And yes, I'm fine, couple bruises but I don't think they're anything more than that. He has AAA insurance, so they seem to be pretty efficient and easy to work with. Claiming 100% their responsibility.



The Gen 5 are amazing. Love that beast. Despite my frustrations trying to get fast on it, but that's not the bikes fault anymore :wink:


Good luck with the insurance claim and heal fast! I’ll hold out a bit longer... I’ll just keep telling myself my 4 year old daughter eats way too much to keep me away from the dealerships hahaha


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I have the dongle for mine. Even with the dongle you can only permanently disable the rear ABS. If you want to turn the front off you have to do it every time you start the bike, similar to having to shut the traction control off every time you start (if you prefer to have it off all the time). Personally, I have found just disabling the rear enough for me. I can still do stoppies with the front ABS on. The only time I have ever had it kick in is when the front tire actually loses traction and slides, and to be honest, I don't mind the ABS kicking in in that situation. Now I do prefer to ride with TC off because with TC on you cannot get the front up anywhere close to the balance point. Of course I don't do full stoppies but I regularly get the rear at least a foot off the ground with front ABS on. It lets me lift the rear when braking at the end of straights on the track as well. I have never had the front ABS kick in on the track, even when racing.
 

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Its super easy to remove the abs out of it. Like others have said, remove lines plug the holes in the unit (i cut up pieces of my wifes tampons), and run dedicated lines to the mc. I just installed a brembo 19rcs and spiegler lines. One hell of a change in braking.
 

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Anyone know if the ABS pump can be removed completely with the ABS dongle installed or will it throw a code?

If not possible, any difference between the I2M and FTECU ABS removal module units?

Thanks.
 

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Not 100% sure on that, as most people leave the pump and just bypass it. I would expect to see an error show up if it's removed.

FTECU doesn't show the ABS delete module for the ZX-10R, so that will make the choice pretty easy for you.
 

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What is the reason for removing the ABS: Track Use only? It malfunctions?
Track use. ABS will make sure you stop upright, but it won't shorten your stopping difference. Unless you're in a low-traction environment. And it's heavier with all the tubing and control module.
 

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I have the ZX-10RR and for casual track day riding, the ABS isn't bad. The lever is slightly mushy once the brakes warm up, but still provides good stopping power and feel.

I have never felt the ABS activate and I never use my back brake, except when parking/stopped.

In a race, the ABS is total junk and I can't wait to rip the thing out. Brakes turn to mush by the 2nd or 3rd lap due to the rubber hoses and extra brake fluid going through the ABS unit. Why in the heck did Kawi fit the 10RR with braided lines for the brakes, but rubber into the ABS unit?

I've ordered the ABS Dongle and based on what I've read here, I'm probably going to need to have my ECU fla$hed to disable the ABS system.

Edit: As an FYI, the Race ECU allows you to disable/delete the ABS.
 

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Can't you just buy the brakes lines that don't go through the abs unit, and just plug where the lines connect to the abs module but leave it connected (electronically). That's what people did on gen4 from what I read.
 

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I have the ZX-10RR and for casual track day riding, the ABS isn't bad. The lever is slightly mushy once the brakes warm up, but still provides good stopping power and feel.

I have never felt the ABS activate and I never use my back brake, except when parking/stopped.

In a race, the ABS is total junk and I can't wait to rip the thing out. Brakes turn to mush by the 2nd or 3rd lap due to the rubber hoses and extra brake fluid going through the ABS unit. Why in the heck did Kawi fit the 10RR with braided lines for the brakes, but rubber into the ABS unit?

I've ordered the ABS Dongle and based on what I've read here, I'm probably going to need to have my ECU fla$hed to disable the ABS system.

Edit: As an FYI, the Race ECU allows you to disable/delete the ABS.
Welcome! With the ABS module controlling the hydraulic pressure directly, the rubber lines provide a bit more of a cushion for the system from an engineering perspective. The ABS module in the loop will be the majority of the feeling rather than the lines connected to it. So don't expect an ABS module with stainless lines to feel like stainless lines direct to the master cylinders.

The ABS dongle disables the system and keeps the module from operating. It just shuts off the module and keeps the caution light off. But the dongle won't be as good as deleting the system though! Same with the race ECU. They both just allow you to remove the plug from the module without throwing a caution light. Then you can delete the mechanical components. There's no reason to reflash the ECU for ABS related stuff.

Just get a regular stainless line kit, run them like a non-ABS version which bypasses the module, cap the ports in the module, and leave the dongle connected. The proper way to finish off the removal is to get rid of all the other non-used lines. That's the issue! The rigid line that runs along the swingarm between the engine case and swingarm is a biotch to remove. The advantage for racing applications is the more direct brake control and power, less to worry about in a crash, and weight reduction by removing the hardware.
 
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