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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So, I'd really appreciate some advice from anyone with experience owning/modding a gen 4 on which of the following two tweaks I should go with.
I've just bought a 2014 ZX10 (which I haven't ridden much at all yet) and I have a little cash left from selling my other bike which I'm keen to spend on my new (to me)bike. I'm tossing up between the following two items but keep changing my mind which I should go for. Ultimately I'd like to do both but I can't afford to do that right now.
1. I had a Nitron rear shock on my previous bike which improved it no end (the original was junk). I would get the version with the high/low speed comp. I weigh around 65-66kg in my jocks and don't go to the track, just spirited road riding on some, at times, fairly crappy roads. I know lots of guys change the rear shock, would it be an essential thing for me to do given my weight and intended use? In the little riding I've done so far I have been thrown up off the seat a bit a couple of times. I'm not bothered about having a "comfy" ride, I don't use the bike to commute or in traffic, I want the bike to feel solid when I need it to the most, which is when I'm "on it" a bit.
If I did decide to change the shock, could I get away with having the OEM shock serviced and upgraded i.e. revalved/resprung or is that not effective?
2. The Graves slipon and midpipe. I love the look of this system and I would like to get rid of the lunchbox/cat etc and the associated weight. I have an autotune that I pulled off my old bike which I enjoyed playing with so I would also get a PCV and filter along with the pipe. Making more power is realistically not going to make much difference to me, I'm not anywhere near using the bike to it's potential. It's really just a weight/appearance/sound/entertainment issue for me.
So yeah I'd love to hear your thoughts!! and I'd really appreciate any advice.
 

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REPOST Enforcement Mod
'16 ZX-10R KRT
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At that weight, the rear shock may be OK for you. Just have to get some more seat time and see how it responds. I had to have my OEM shock resprung and revalved for my weight and that made a big difference. The Gen 4 can use some more ride height in the back though to help it finish turns and not run wide under throttle. That was an issue for me that I didn't like and 6mm on the shock mount fixed that issue.

Pipes are your preference. Looks, sound, and weight are the what you can expect, so pick the one that floats your goat in that regard.

Aside from that, the ECU reflash would be the next thing. Primarily to get rid of the off throttle fuel cut and get the power back in the upper RPM by derestricting it.
 

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It's really just a weight/appearance/sound/entertainment issue for me.
My suggestions for your 4 issues:

Weight.
Decat saves weight, other places are minor.
Bike feels lighter if you:
-shim shock, makes turning lighter, sharper.
-Good brake pads.
-Reduce throttle spring tention (gen4).
-Track training to learn wresling a superbike.

Appearance.
Gen5 bodywork.

Sound
If you use decat pipe with stock muffler then bike may get too loud. Stock muffler has no chambers and recuces little sound.

Entertainment.:hello:
 

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Rifleman’s throttle insert, about a 25% quicker throttle rotation and it’s inexpensive to boot.
remove the cat, run a straight through mid pipe, keep the stock muffler, an an aftermarket unit isn’t going to buy (m)any hp. This is not an offensively loud combo, I can do this without ear plugs.
re-flash the ECU - plenty of places offer it, I used ZX10Archer

Get saddle time, evaluate what you like / don’t like and go from there.
 

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If ur bike is eurospec you wont need a flash

Im around ur weight and stock shock should be ok, but a set of link plates from UKZX10R on here will help get damping in range. I would take some preload off the forks though. that will also help with turn in

I did the decat, but UK tracks test for noise and I went back to stock. Actually I like it better :smile2:

First thing I do to any bike is to fit crash bungs and a rad guard
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks heaps for the replies fellas! really much appreciated! I am all ears:smile2:
I'm in Oz so I don't have the restricted ECU. I also find the on/off response to be excellent on my bike, do most of you have the fuel cut killed with a reflash to fix a jerky throttle?? mine seems very smooth. Certainly compared to my last bike!
I have taken some preload off the front, I'm at about 2 turns in from fully out. i have some lighter springs on the way too which I'll try. I can't get the sag right with the stock ones.
I'll definately have a look at those link plates for the rear. It'd be great to not have to fork out for a shock!
Does anyone know who makes a link pipe for the stock muffler? there are some Arrow midpipes on Ebay in Oz...not sure if they fit though, I'm a bit confused with those.
 

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Shock is great; graves is great UNLESS you leave early morning and you have neighbors. Go quiet can WITHOUT use of pass peg if needed. I have the graves but leave mid morning and arrive home mid afternoon. Fender eliminator is needed but save the oem stuff just in case you need it later. No flash needed; don't waste a dime on anything for bike but I do run tpx radar wireless helmet audio with the techmount located on top of fork. Met rr 55 back and bridgestone rs10 G front; go steel 16 front and oem or vortex steel rear whatever on back. That bike will work for you.
 

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I have taken some preload off the front, I'm at about 2 turns in from fully out. i have some lighter springs on the way too which I'll try. I can't get the sag right with the stock ones.
I'll definately have a look at those link plates for the rear. It'd be great to not have to fork out for a shock!
Few details how I would approach suspention settings.
Take more preload out just to test how bike steers.
If you like it, then it is better to put forks back to stock position and start shimming shock.
Shimming shock is better than lowering front because swingarm angle will be better with hard acceleration and should aid running wide problem.
Put zip tie on shock shaft to test if it is bottoming (test by driving out of long corner as hard as you can in 2nd gear).
Changing link with you weigth is not a good idea (unless bottoming) and will make rear very stiff for you. Stock link is not bad for street at all.
And don't worry about fork sag, these forks have too long topout springs. When needed adjust front heigth by moving forks up-down in clamps.
 

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Cat delete slip on and a/m filter!personally I would go the Woolich way with the autotune and map your own tune!if you go dyno with PCV you will also have to buy the 02 optimiser to overcome the closed loop circuit on the Aussie gen4!I no the Woolich is expensive but add the price of a dyno,PCV,02optimiser there wouldn't be much in it!Dynojet auto tune samples much slower than Woolich autotune if you go that way also!Dynojet told me if I wanted to buy a autotune to run with my PCV I would have to weld another bung in my exhaust to fit their autotune leaving the oem 02 sencor with the optimiser wired in!cheers Peter
 

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Hey mate, what colour is your 2014 ZX10R.
Also, I am selling quite a few accessories for this bike (Oggy knobs, Case Protectors, Exahust, etc). PM for the details.
 
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