Kawasaki ZX-10R Forum banner

1 - 20 of 21 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Fork service was easy.
One day at streets of willow this weekend cooked a new Dunlop 0585 slick.
I'd like to change shock oil this weekend and possibly change the shim stack down the road.
Usually there is a schrader for adding nitrogen but I dont see the procedure in the service manual.

1) Where can this info be found?
2) Stock oil wt?
3) Quantity/level.
4) What do I need to machine or buy to fill with nitrogen after oil change.
5) Gas pressure

Please dont start down the polishing a turd stock shock vs Ohlins path just yet.

-Dork
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Well, that about covers it. Racetech is pretty proud of their stuff. Thanks!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
279 Posts
No Ohlins buuuuut there was a guy the other day in the classifieds selling some conversion links for the Showa rear shock that comes on the 5th gen. Not a bad upgrade if the stocker dont workout. You can normally find them for less than 150 bones.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,523 Posts
Shocks are a bit of a beast to service compared to forks. Truthfully we always recommend having a shop do it vs a DIYER because if you get it wrong, it can be catastrophic. With that being said here are a few things for you.

In OEM shocks we use Maxima 3wt full synthetic SHOCK oil. - https://www.maximausa.com/product/synthetic-racing-shock-fluid/ This is REALLY good oil and is very stable at higher temps. And the price is very reasonable.

Nitrogen pressure is 150 PSI. The OEM bladder cap has a rubber membrane that you pierce with a needle. You can convert it to a schrader valve but it's not necessary. If you do want to change it, you would have to replace the bladder cap with a RT one.

If you're planning on changing the valving you'll have to grind the peening off to access the nut, this can be easily messed up if you dont know what you're doing. Here's a few pics to show you what I mean.







If you're going this far, you might as well change out the seals on the sealhead. RT sells just oil and dust seal, we like to use a full rebuild kit that replaces all the o-rings.

And last, there is no "volume". You have to fill the shock and make sure there is absolutely no air in the shock. This is why most shops vacuum pump the shock. This allows the shock to be 100% full of oil, and is less mess.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
333 Posts
Please dont start down the polishing a turd stock shock vs Ohlins path just yet.
-Dork
Maybe we can polish now?
Consider finding used Ohlins for good price, subastract resale value and you are at 250 max.
You do track, I think perfectly revalved shock will not match Ohlins stability in hot weather.
And much better tire wear alone justifies aftermarket shock easy.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
791 Posts
Fork service was easy.
One day at streets of willow this weekend cooked a new Dunlop 0585 slick.
I'd like to change shock oil this weekend and possibly change the shim stack down the road.
Usually there is a schrader for adding nitrogen but I dont see the procedure in the service manual.

1) Where can this info be found?
2) Stock oil wt?
3) Quantity/level.
4) What do I need to machine or buy to fill with nitrogen after oil change.
5) Gas pressure

Please dont start down the polishing a turd stock shock vs Ohlins path just yet.

-Dork
Gen4 shock isn't known to be a good option for track. I wouldn't waste a cent on it. If you want a cheap option, get Gen5 link (very important) and Gen5 shock. Otherwise, get a gen5 link and ohlins/penske/ktech shock. Gen4 link is very wrong so make sure you replace it too.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
184 Posts
Check Youtube for Racetech shock service videos. They may not be for your particular shock but it will give you the info needed. Shops usually charge $15-$20 for a nitrogen charge in your shock.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
Ugh. I didnt know ...and probly didn't want to know the good stuff could be had that cheap.
I'm new to the road scene, only 160 lb, but compression front and rear is 1/4 turn from maxed out and still bottoming front/ too soft rear (with min sag #s). Rear rebound is barely cracked open and basically non-existent when hot.

This is going to be an addictive hobby.

So whats wrong with the gen 4 linkage?
Is it because it was designed for 2 up or baggage?

Thanks again for the pointers.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
184 Posts
Sag 25-30mm rear, front 30-40mm. Fluid is probably shot. How many miles on the suspension? Springs should be adequate for your skinny butt. What year bike?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
2012. My thought exactly. Serviced the forks a couple track days ago, no change. 26 front 30 rear sag.
Figured id try 5wt in the rear and see if that helps...but i might be on the aftermarket shock train now.
Wheres a good place to get one of those $600 mark 2 Ohlins mentioned above?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
2012. My thought exactly. Serviced the forks a couple track days ago, no change. 26 front 30 rear sag.
Figured id try 5wt in the rear and see if that helps...but i might be on the aftermarket shock train now.
Wheres a good place to get one of those $650 series 2 Ohlins mentioned above?
Correction
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,523 Posts
2012. My thought exactly. Serviced the forks a couple track days ago, no change. 26 front 30 rear sag.
Figured id try 5wt in the rear and see if that helps...but i might be on the aftermarket shock train now.
Wheres a good place to get one of those $600 mark 2 Ohlins mentioned above?
Oil viscosity doesnt affect sag. Spring rate and preload and oil level does.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
184 Posts
2012. My thought exactly. Serviced the forks a couple track days ago, no change. 26 front 30 rear sag.
Figured id try 5wt in the rear and see if that helps...but i might be on the aftermarket shock train now.
Wheres a good place to get one of those $600 mark 2 Ohlins mentioned above?
LDH said he has some for sale. Sounds like a great deal for sure.
 
1 - 20 of 21 Posts
Top