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Я - Ребен&#108
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Im changing my street and race bike 2011 ZX10R chain and sprocket and on average I push my race bike wheel base back a few knotches but I was told by one Kaw rider that they leave it stock.

Do anyone push it back some to keep the front end down for races and trackdays?
 

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I keep mine far back as possible but with my gearing changing, sometimes I have to move the rear wheel forward a smidgen. Only time I wheelie (bad) is on the starts. I've got to work on that!
 

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I had mine in really close, within the first 1/3, it turned awesome and was still pretty good under straight line power. In say that I've changed gearing again and now I'm 5mm closer in than standard and I can tell the difference, it turns in slightly slower.
 

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Keep it in the middle, gives you the most movement forwards or rearwards to allow for gearing change.

Stability and geometry should remain the same as the blocks are angled, the further the wheel goes back, the higher the rear gets countering the longer wheelbase.

The only thing that may get affected is the leverage on the rear shock (greater loading on the shock from a longer lever due to the wheel being back). so you may require a touch more compression dampening if moving the wheel back.
 

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Я - Ребен&#108
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Discussion Starter #5
Ah ok thanks....
currently I have it about 10mm further back towards the end.
I have -2f/+2R.
I'm about to buy a new chain and gearing possibly (-2F/+1R) and debating where to set it just in case I do not like that gear setting...

I normally push the wheel base way back, but the same fast racer who told me to go with the 2/2 set up in gearing also said stock wheelbase.

It seems like it would be a wheelie monster.
 

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2/2 does sound extreme. Unless there are some really tight 1 gear corners on the track.

The general tried and true method for ZX10R racers in Oz seems to favour -1/+2 (-1/+3) depending on track. This works well for Wanneroo Raceway in the West (only hitting 5th gear on the long straight) and also Phillip Island where the long straight simply means you get to use 6th.

I have been told before to avoid going more than -1 on the front as the size of the front sprocket is now starting to get quite small, forcing the chain to start making a more rapid change in direction, this starts to put extra strain/load on the chain which starts to take up horse power...

The fact behind that claim I have yet to witness first hand but if anyone wants to give it a shot on the dyno, compare a -2/+1, to a -1/+4 and post the results.
 

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Depends on the track. For tighter tracks I have my wheel more forward. Most of the time, no matter the track, it's in the middle though just because that's where it feels more comfortable.
 

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Wheel base is rider preferance if they like a quicker steering bike thats one way to make it so. But if you need a bike that drives you make it longer.
 

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I just ran -1 +2 at Willow Springs and it wound up being perfect gearing for that track, I was hitting 13,500 in 6th at the end of the straight. Will probably need to drop another tooth in the front when I try Chuck Walla. I don’t think I would intentionally try to make the wheel base longer though, I like the quicker steering
.
 

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Probably won't need to change much for chuckwalla sting. You'll only top out 4th there with that gearing. I don't think I even saw a 5th gear pull.
 

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^ ok will do, I wasn't sure what to expect out there but I do know it's a slower track than Willow
 

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If its slower you need more gearing so you can accelerate faster.
 

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No. You wil just not need 5-6 gear. It is still 10,000 and up mid corner in second. It's just not straight line fast.

Sting, you saw the video I posted back in feb. You can judge gearing from that if you want.
 

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^ yeah I'll take another look at your video before heading out, thnx
 
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