Kawasaki ZX-10R Forum banner

1 - 10 of 10 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,913 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Can anyone tell me if it is possible to sneak the CCT past the thermostat housing on the Gen 4 without removing it or the hose?

I need to get it out and manually reset it.
 

·
REPOST Enforcement Mod
Joined
·
14,970 Posts
Yes, done it several times.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,913 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Cool breeze, thanks folks!:thumbsup:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,913 Posts
Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Got this done this afternoon, Skydork was correct, the CCT slips right past the thermostat and hose without issue. Mine had never reset from the original factory setting in over 8000 miles, I moved it two full ratchet teeth and reinstalled, super quiet now, sounds like the day I picked it up at the dealer.

Could not find the reason it failed to reset, I cleaned it up and examined the ratchet teeth for burrs or deformities but it looked fine. After studying this thing for a few minutes, it appears that the ratio of the pawl spring to the plunger spring is wrong, either the pawl spring is too strong or the plunger spring is too weak.

BEFORE



AFTER
 

·
REPOST Enforcement Mod
Joined
·
14,970 Posts
Glad to hear it's better. But you're supposed to adjust the plunger with the body installed in the motor. There's no possible way to know how many notches to adjust it outside the motor. You can severely over tension the chain and stress the cam beatings and chain guide. Install the tensioner fully with the spring out. Then stick a small screw driver in it and feel the clicks as it takes up the slack in the chain. Then reinstall the spring.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,913 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
See Chapter 5-17 from the 2011 Factory ZX-10R Service Manual. Installation was done exactly by the book, substituted 5 notches for the recommended 3-4 notches on the pushrod to compensate for chain stretch. No mention anywhere of screwdrivers etc. to adjust, see below.


Camshaft Chain Tensioner
Camshaft Chain Tensioner Installation •Replace the O-ring [A] with a new one. •Apply grease to the new O-ring. •Release the stopper and push the push rod [C] into the
interior of the tensioner body [D] so that the position of the
push rod is 3 or 4 notches [E] as shown in the figure.
•Install the tensioner body so that the stopper faces upward.
•Tighten the tensioner mounting bolts [A].
Torque - Camshaft Chain Tensioner Mounting Bolts: 9.8
N·m (1.0 kgf·m, 87 in·lb)
•Install:
Rod
Spring [C]
Washer [D] •Tighten the cap bolt [E].
Torque - Camshaft Chain Tensioner Cap Bolt: 20 N·m
 

·
REPOST Enforcement Mod
Joined
·
14,970 Posts
Kruz said:
See Chapter 5-17 from the 2011 Factory ZX-10R Service Manual. Installation was done exactly by the book, substituted 5 notches for the recommended 3-4 notches on the pushrod to compensate for chain stretch. No mention anywhere of screwdrivers etc. to adjust, see below.
Yeah, I've read that section tons of times over the years. No, you didn't install it by the book. If you installed it by the book, you wouldn't have substituted the extra notches. Those are just the starting point and the spring is what sets the tension. And the procedure I'm telling you about isn't in the book.

The purpose of doing the initial notches before installation is only to give an initial extension so that it can't get stuck somehow in the fully retracted position before you start the motor and let the spring take up the slack. You're supposed to then install the tensioner body and then the spring which sets the correct tension within the motor. As you stated earlier, the "plunger spring is too weak" or the "pawl spring" is too tight. So the purpose of inserting a hard tool into it is to create an artificial force and create a manual way of extending the plunger - WHILE IN THE MOTOR! And that's the key point. You CAN NOT under any circumstances pre-set the tensioner outside of the motor. That can be detrimental to the motor. Adding 1 or 2 notches before bolting it back in will certainly take up the slack in the chain, but you have no idea whether that's too much tension or not. You very well can be stressing the cams unnecessarily.

The procedure that I gave you above to use a hard object is specifically to overcome the deficiencies with the spring. If the spring is too weak to extend the plunger, then use a rod in it with your fingers to extend the plunger manually. But it has to be done in the motor.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,667 Posts
Glad to hear it's better. But you're supposed to adjust the plunger with the body installed in the motor. There's no possible way to know how many notches to adjust it outside the motor. You can severely over tension the chain and stress the cam beatings and chain guide. Install the tensioner fully with the spring out. Then stick a small screw driver in it and feel the clicks as it takes up the slack in the chain. Then reinstall the spring.
What he said. Of course it's quiet; it is probably too tight. Re-do it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
547 Posts
What he said. Of course it's quiet; it is probably too tight. Re-do it.
:+1:

Ive played around with mine a lot and the only time it was 100% quite was when it was too tight.

Manual one in there now.. very finely adjusted and it still gives a little rattle which is all cushty by me.
 
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
Top