I've read a few different times to drain and refil the oil before removing the oil filter in order to avoid a low oil pressure condition on the initial startup.
Gen 4: How to change oil
Since some just don't know how or maybe some new guy wants to know how to change the oil instead of being ripped off by a dealership, I created these instructions.
Instructions on how to change oil on a Kawasaki Ninja ZX-10R (Gen 4 2011-2015):
Items needed:
Oil 10w-40: 3.7 qts: I am using MOTUL 300v 10w40 (1 gallon)
Oil filter: I am using Hiflofiltro HF303RC => replaces the stock OEM Kawasaki oil filter # 16097-0002
oil filter removal tool:
oil filter cap wrench = Cap Style 'Oil Filter Wrench' (it is very size specific)
OR just some standard adjustable oil filter removal tool
flat blade screwdriver to remove 6 plastic clip pins on inner fairings (2 each side and 2 in lower center)
4mm Allen socket (possible 3mm if you changed out some fairing screws)
17mm socket for oil drain plug
oil pan to store old oil
long thin funnel
aluminum foil to cover exhaust, (so not to get oil on exhaust)
Time: About 30 minutes (depends on how fast you know how to use tools and do these steps too)
How to Drain oil:
Remove both lower fairings (left is for oil drain bolt and oil filter, and right is for filling it up)
plus makes it easier to get to the oil filter in front lower left area
I have seen some do this without removing lower fairings, but tends to be a pain.
Use the aluminum foil to put on exhaust pipes near oil filter
this keeps oil off of exhaust when removing oil filter
Fire up engine outside and let it heat up to above 150F
This heats up the oil and thins it out, to drain easier.
Put bike on rear and front stands on level pavement to get the bike level
Don't let it engine cool below 1110 degrees before draining
put oil drain pan under the oil drain plug
use a 17mm socket to loosen oil drain plug bolt (Oil will be hot!)
loosen bolt and remove but don’t lose drain bolt in the oil
let the oil drain into oil pan, which can take awhile
move onto the removal of oil filter
How to change oil filter:
verify aluminum foil is on the exhaust pipes next to the old oil filter
make sure oil drain pan is BOTH under oil drain plug and oil filter
If needed uses two oil drain pans
partially loosen old oil filter and let it drain
Wait till it stops dripping from old oil filter
remove old filter and tilt it to drain remaining oil into oil pan
Now from new oil, then apply new oil on the new oil filter O-ring seal.
After about 5 minutes, wipe off area where oil filter will meet up with engine
Put on new oil filter
tighten via hand and then tighten oil filter to 23ft lbs. of torque
wipe off any oil droppings around oil filter
remove aluminum foil off exhaust
Wipe off anything off bottom of engine near oil filter
Finishing oil draining:
Back to the oil drain plug area
Wiggle bike slightly left and right, but careful while on stands.
Wait till it stops dripping from engine
You really want as much old oil out
I would wait at least 15 minutes from when you removed the oil drain plug
screw back on the oil drain bolt into engine
tighten the engine oil drain plug to 14ft lbs. of torque
wipe off the bottom of engine and around bolt very very good.
Note: Both the area around bottom of oil filter and bottom of engine should be clean
These areas have to be very spotless for testing for any leaks in later steps
Refilling with new oil:
On the right side of the bike, remove the oil filler cap
get a long thin funnel and use to pour in new oil
Pour in new oil slowly, 3 qts (it actually takes 3.7 but it is completely dry, but hold on)
close the oil filler cap
start bike and let it run for about 2 minutes, then rev slightly, not above 5k
This is just enough to get oil in oil filter, cams, clutch, etc and circulate new oil
Note: If light comes on, then the light will go off after about 5 seconds
power off and wait 2 minutes, so it can drain back down
Check oil 'glass' area for level of oil
add more oil as needed since we only put in 3 qts and usually requires 3.7 qts
screw in the oil filler cap
Testing:
Get bike off stands, and keep lower fairings off for now
start and run down street for about 5 minutes to get some oil pressure built up
temps should get up above 150+
stop and level the bike on stands, then wait 2 minutes for oil to drain back down
-=> Write down the bikes mileage on phone, paper or something
Verify oil level in glass and add as needed (do not overfill)
Also check for leaks around oil filter, drain plug, and oil filling area again.
If no leaks, then you are good to go for now, but will test it again later.
Put the bottom fairings back on.
You did remove aluminum foil off exhaust pipes right?
All done
Again, makes sure to write down the mileage of this oil change before you go riding.
Also after you run it another 50 miles, check for leaks to verify no leaking.
(Optional) Safety wire the oil drain plug, oil filter and oil filler cap
--
Some people may add or have some other suggestions but this has worked well for me so far.
Instructions on how to change oil on a Kawasaki Ninja ZX-10R (Gen 4 2011-2015):
Items needed:
Oil 10w-40: 3.7 qts: I am using MOTUL 300v 10w40 (1 gallon)
Oil filter: I am using Hiflofiltro HF303RC => replaces the stock OEM Kawasaki oil filter # 16097-0002
oil filter removal tool:
oil filter cap wrench = Cap Style 'Oil Filter Wrench' (it is very size specific)
OR just some standard adjustable oil filter removal tool
flat blade screwdriver to remove 6 plastic clip pins on inner fairings (2 each side and 2 in lower center)
4mm Allen socket (possible 3mm if you changed out some fairing screws)
17mm socket for oil drain plug
oil pan to store old oil
long thin funnel
aluminum foil to cover exhaust, (so not to get oil on exhaust)
Time: About 30 minutes (depends on how fast you know how to use tools and do these steps too)
How to Drain oil:
Remove both lower fairings (left is for oil drain bolt and oil filter, and right is for filling it up)
plus makes it easier to get to the oil filter in front lower left area
I have seen some do this without removing lower fairings, but tends to be a pain.
Use the aluminum foil to put on exhaust pipes near oil filter
this keeps oil off of exhaust when removing oil filter
Fire up engine outside and let it heat up to above 150F
This heats up the oil and thins it out, to drain easier.
Put bike on rear and front stands on level pavement to get the bike level
Don't let it engine cool below 1110 degrees before draining
put oil drain pan under the oil drain plug
use a 17mm socket to loosen oil drain plug bolt (Oil will be hot!)
loosen bolt and remove but don’t lose drain bolt in the oil
let the oil drain into oil pan, which can take awhile
move onto the removal of oil filter
How to change oil filter:
verify aluminum foil is on the exhaust pipes next to the old oil filter
make sure oil drain pan is BOTH under oil drain plug and oil filter
If needed uses two oil drain pans
partially loosen old oil filter and let it drain
Wait till it stops dripping from old oil filter
remove old filter and tilt it to drain remaining oil into oil pan
Now from new oil, then apply new oil on the new oil filter O-ring seal.
After about 5 minutes, wipe off area where oil filter will meet up with engine
Put on new oil filter
tighten via hand and then tighten oil filter to 23ft lbs. of torque
wipe off any oil droppings around oil filter
remove aluminum foil off exhaust
Wipe off anything off bottom of engine near oil filter
Finishing oil draining:
Back to the oil drain plug area
Wiggle bike slightly left and right, but careful while on stands.
Wait till it stops dripping from engine
You really want as much old oil out
I would wait at least 15 minutes from when you removed the oil drain plug
screw back on the oil drain bolt into engine
tighten the engine oil drain plug to 14ft lbs. of torque
wipe off the bottom of engine and around bolt very very good.
Note: Both the area around bottom of oil filter and bottom of engine should be clean
These areas have to be very spotless for testing for any leaks in later steps
Refilling with new oil:
On the right side of the bike, remove the oil filler cap
get a long thin funnel and use to pour in new oil
Pour in new oil slowly, 3 qts (it actually takes 3.7 but it is completely dry, but hold on)
close the oil filler cap
start bike and let it run for about 2 minutes, then rev slightly, not above 5k
This is just enough to get oil in oil filter, cams, clutch, etc and circulate new oil
Note: If light comes on, then the light will go off after about 5 seconds
power off and wait 2 minutes, so it can drain back down
Check oil 'glass' area for level of oil
add more oil as needed since we only put in 3 qts and usually requires 3.7 qts
screw in the oil filler cap
Testing:
Get bike off stands, and keep lower fairings off for now
start and run down street for about 5 minutes to get some oil pressure built up
temps should get up above 150+
stop and level the bike on stands, then wait 2 minutes for oil to drain back down
-=> Write down the bikes mileage on phone, paper or something
Verify oil level in glass and add as needed (do not overfill)
Also check for leaks around oil filter, drain plug, and oil filling area again.
If no leaks, then you are good to go for now, but will test it again later.
Put the bottom fairings back on.
You did remove aluminum foil off exhaust pipes right?
All done
Again, makes sure to write down the mileage of this oil change before you go riding.
Also after you run it another 50 miles, check for leaks to verify no leaking.
(Optional) Safety wire the oil drain plug, oil filter and oil filler cap
--
Some people may add or have some other suggestions but this has worked well for me so far.
1 - 9 of 9 Posts
I have no problem changing oil with fairings still on just loose at bottom but full Akro pipe also avoids the oil on exhaust issue.
I also leave bike on rear stand only to drain, this lets out more oil then level. To refill, I level the front wheel either by a front stand or a thick board under the front wheel.
I just cannot trust 14 ft lbs on the oil drain bolt....not without safety wire and even then I tend to 20.
I also leave bike on rear stand only to drain, this lets out more oil then level. To refill, I level the front wheel either by a front stand or a thick board under the front wheel.
I just cannot trust 14 ft lbs on the oil drain bolt....not without safety wire and even then I tend to 20.
I second draining the oil using only rear stand as well since drain hole is towards front of the pan. Logic would suggest the angle tilted forward would allow more of the oil to flow to the front and out the drain hole.I have no problem changing oil with fairings still on just loose at bottom but full Akro pipe also avoids the oil on exhaust issue.
I also leave bike on rear stand only to drain, this lets out more oil then level. To refill, I level the front wheel either by a front stand or a thick board under the front wheel.
I just cannot trust 14 ft lbs on the oil drain bolt....not without safety wire and even then I tend to 20.
:iamwithstupid: This is correct. I have experienced this first hand.I've read a few different times to drain and refil the oil before removing the oil filter in order to avoid a low oil pressure condition on the initial startup.
if oem plug used, no safety wired needed based upon my experience in rough conditions and heavy miles. Both stands, np. I fill the filter with oil prior to installation...but I don't change oil much. Plastic on ok with the tiny ring wrench but took me awhile to figure out to use that wrench. '13 burns zero oil but the '11 did burn a tiny amount but not much.
3.7l when completely Dry to me means it was just rebuilt... 3.5 us quarts when filter is removed. Both your drain bolt and filter don't match what I see above
Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk
Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk
1 - 9 of 9 Posts
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