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Discussion Starter #1
Got my bike last november with bridgestone tyres and when cranked right over i kept getting the back tyre slipping out so i fitted sc2 tyres.
But still had few slips and on the gas little slides coming out of corners.
So checked the setup and found the rear end too soft compared to the front.
Made some adjustments so bike goes up and down evely plus i fitted a sc1 rear tyre.
Went out yesterday to try build up my confidence coz i wanted to do trackday tuesday but its still twitching every now and again.
Especially on slower corners.
The front end is great and i can push it quite hard but ive got no confidence with the rear end.
In fact i cant think of a rear end thats given me so little confidence on all the bikes ive owned.
Im 14.5 stone uk. The spring is not fully wound up but its towards that way to get the bike to compress evenly but is there anyone simular build who can offer set up advice for full lean angle grip please?
 

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What is your comp and reb in the rear set at? Also have you changed geometry at all? You mention it's "twitchy", can you elaborate more? And when the bike slides out are you real heavy on the throttle or are you just cracking open the throttle or maintenance?

Also when you added preload to the spring did it make it better or worse?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
What is your comp and reb in the rear set at? Also have you changed geometry at all? You mention it's "twitchy", can you elaborate more? And when the bike slides out are you real heavy on the throttle or are you just cracking open the throttle or maintenance?

Also when you added preload to the spring did it make it better or worse?
Well basically theres a set of bends near me where i take all my bikes to get a general feel of their handling.
Straight away as soon as i was leaning the bike over it skipped out at the back a couple of times which i thought was odd on both nutral and full throttle.
Put it down to cool weather and standard tyres.
Then i went round a roundabout with my sc2 tyre on and with nutraul throttle on and it slid out again.
I ignored it and kept it cranked over and it didnt do it again.
Then a slip on the power out of a corner.
Also with the sc1 tyre on even when warmed up the rear still breaks traction momentarily which all in all means i am now nurvous on it and cant get my confidence anywhere near where it was with the gen 1 i just sold.
Im not sure on comp settings as im just playing around with it trying to make it feel better.
Its feels better in other areas since ive stiffened up the rear spring but the edge grip seems to still be and issue
 

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I find the front of the g4 doesn't want to turn, I've never had the rear really step out on me.ive never messed with the settings.whats your tire pressure?
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
I find the front of the g4 doesn't want to turn, I've never had the rear really step out on me.ive never messed with the settings.whats your tire pressure?
How odd coz i really like the front end feel. I do think its very importand to be hanging off lorenzo style to make it work well. Ive noticed if i sit normally upright and cruise about it doesnt turn as well.
Ive tried 35 psi and under for road. Yesterday i lowered it to high 20s but didnt feel much better.
But i thought my bike was standard and untouched but i noticed today my high speed compression was almost on full so someones played with it. To be honest im not sure the shock is any good. From all settings wound full off it doesnt seem any different to full on when im bouncing it by hand
 

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How odd coz i really like the front end feel. I do think its very importand to be hanging off lorenzo style to make it work well. Ive noticed if i sit normally upright and cruise about it doesnt turn as well.
Ive tried 35 psi and under for road. Yesterday i lowered it to high 20s but didnt feel much better.
But i thought my bike was standard and untouched but i noticed today my high speed compression was almost on full so someones played with it. To be honest im not sure the shock is any good. From all settings wound full off it doesnt seem any different to full on when im bouncing it by hand

You need face time with a pro....
 

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I find the front of the g4 doesn't want to turn, I've never had the rear really step out on me.ive never messed with the settings.whats your tire pressure?
Not correct perception and I know your point. Can't remember which tire on the front but I DO remember exactly what I had to change: I went to a concentrated BOTH grips used to flick. So for a right I'd snap both grips, left grip in and right grip out. That bike flicks. After a couple of turns I never noticed the problem again. I adjusted, or brain adjusted, whatever.
 

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You need face time with a pro....
Just superbike classes is all. Not complicated. I encountered riders that are old and gray and been on bikes since a child yet never had a clue until they finally read Code's work or learned to stop the pride bullshit and take a superbike class.
 

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How odd coz i really like the front end feel. I do think its very importand to be hanging off lorenzo style to make it work well. Ive noticed if i sit normally upright and cruise about it doesnt turn as well.
Ive tried 35 psi and under for road. Yesterday i lowered it to high 20s but didnt feel much better.
But i thought my bike was standard and untouched but i noticed today my high speed compression was almost on full so someones played with it. To be honest im not sure the shock is any good. From all settings wound full off it doesnt seem any different to full on when im bouncing it by hand
g4 is out of the box hot bike. 203 pounds in American speak is heavy. Research your Newton for the math.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Well i did a track day and had suspension specialist look at it.
He said front is good enough to race on but back is very poor and with damping fully on it barely works. He said its quite common on gen4 to barely damp as standard.
But i pushed the front very hard and i was pretty quick on it straight away. Still looking for shock upgrade...
Vid.

https://youtu.be/OxvPMpJoI2s
 

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Bloomin eck you're quick :surprise:

Surprised you don't switch the dash to race mode though

I'd try a heavier shock spring before changing the shock, stock spring is way too light for most riders

Nice riding :cool:
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Bloomin eck you're quick :surprise:

Surprised you don't switch the dash to race mode though

I'd try a heavier shock spring before changing the shock, stock spring is way too light for most riders

Nice riding :cool:
Cheers.
Well didnt know dash had a race mode lol.
Apparently its barely enough danping for the standard spring so uprating the spring wont help
 

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Tire pressures, sock set-up, body position, road conditions, pace, tire temperature, and so on? The stock shock works well up to a point, unless it's full race pace it should be fine. The usual charachteristic riders are trying to correct on the Geb4 is not finishing corners (but this geometry related and not traction). This is solved with the linear linkage. So many factors for why there would be low traction and tire movement, best way to addres it would be process or elimination so maybe a trackday would be a good place to do that.

-Ensure all the clickers are in the factory position to start your testing (comp, rebound, and an approximate sag setting).
-Ensure good road surface/condition (being at the track should solve that).
-Make sure tires are good/new.
-Get heat in tires and set correct pressures (on Pirelli SC1-2 slicks 31 in the front and 25 in the rear approx).
-Ensure correct bodyposition in the corner and smooth throttle exiting after the apex.
-Incerementally increase pace as you learn the layout and corners ensureing correct corner entry, apex and exit.
-Use that as a starting point and go from there, adjust one thing at a time and go test in your session.
 

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The way it was explained to me, the OEM shock works ok if you're slow or less than 150lbs. The OP weighs around 200lbs.

I had no complaints with my suspension at all until I took the bike to the track. I weigh 185lbs and at the time I was a pretty quick intermediate-group rider. The shock was just collapsing. It would run wide on corner exits and the back end would pump up and down on hard acceleration. This is a known issue on this bike. The shock is undersprung and the damping is weak, the shock is a turd.

My handling issues were remedied with a Ohlins TTX shock and 30mm fork cartridges. I was not having any trouble with the forks at the time, but I figured that they would be the next weakest link so I had the cartridges swapped out, too. It was like riding a different motorcycle. It would hold a line, the pumping was gone, it wasn't lighting the rear tire up on every corner exit... Just worked 100% better, no superbike school required. This is the point where I started having trouble with brake fade. I guess getting a better drive off every corner led to harder and more frequent braking.

It looked like the OP was getting around the course pretty well. I find it amusing how someone can lecture a perfect stranger about their riding ability and claim that the bike could not possibly be the problem. Even more amusing when this critics credentials are considered... Not that I'm an expert myself, I'm just a "track day hero" and amateur racer.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
The bike was looked at by the suspension specialist at the track. Hes one of the best in the world. He said at begining of day that these shocks are no good especially if you run a good pace. Im almost at race pace so its not gonna damp properly.
Heres the proof he was right;
 

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That picture of the tire can still and does happen with the liner link and ohlin's ttx depending on certain conditions (track abrasiveness, shock setup, etc).
What is race pace, novice, amateur, pro? How many laps in the tire and what pressures? Also were they on warmers or cold-torn?

I think others mentioned it here. If shock is you only concern and not all other factors and posibilities for tearing up a tire, then you have to move to more advanced system and pretty much the standard is: Ohlin's TTX shock paired with the Kyle Link. Those together have a ton of development gone into them and if you go to a tuned that's familiar with this setup they will get the valving and spring done correctly to optimize this setup. Then you can know the shock is fine.
Correct tire pressures and using tire warmers will still be important to avoid tearing up the tires too quickly.
 
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