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Discussion Starter #1
I bought a ported head a while back and never got to use it cause of the valves. I was wondering if anyone's tried to use 3rd gen valves in the gen 2 head.
 

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You don't want to lap these valves..............they have a hardened finish, and once you lap them, you take that material off and they will pretty much destroy each other in the next 1000 mile or so.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Its a dragbike that doesn't get any street usage at all, I've read that in the manual but you can just throw random valves in a different head and expect them to seal.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
The original head last about 7 mos after I lapped them valve n seats still look good I just jacked one on the seats trying to port it. Thats also why I'm trying to get this ported head I bought put on so I can compare my head vs company ported head. Having a dyno where you work is the shit, I'll keep you posted on how it works out!
 

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gen 3 ex. valves will not work, gen 2 25.5 mm, gen 3 24.5. int. fine. as far as lapping, intakes are made of tool steel, lapping with correct lapping compound will not affect valve life. ex. are ti, light lap to inspect valve seal has little effect on life. don't assume all valves and valve seats are true, they aren't. I light lap every valve I install with a few strokes, not only to ensure valve true, but seat as well. never use coarse, u should use only fine compound, clovers is best. wiping valve and seat with oil free solvent such as starting fluid, lacquer thinner after lapping will make seating on valve and seat highly visable. lap lines should be perfectly concentric on both. valve/seat seal is critical for making power and long valve and seat life and should not go unchecked when installing valves. untrue seats and valves damage each other. ck'd leakdown on engines done this way after a season or several seasons of running. imo more valve seal lost to not cking seal by lapping than lapping a valve lightly to do so, even in the long run.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
gen 3 ex. valves will not work, gen 2 25.5 mm, gen 3 24.5. int. fine. as far as lapping, intakes are made of tool steel, lapping with correct lapping compound will not affect valve life. ex. are ti, light lap to inspect valve seal has little effect on life. don't assume all valves and valve seats are true, they aren't. I light lap every valve I install with a few strokes, not only to ensure valve true, but seat as well. never use coarse, u should use only fine compound, clovers is best. wiping valve and seat with oil free solvent such as starting fluid, lacquer thinner after lapping will make seating on valve and seat highly visable. lap lines should be perfectly concentric on both. valve/seat seal is critical for making power and long valve and seat life and should not go unchecked when installing valves. untrue seats and valves damage each other. ck'd leakdown on engines done this way after a season or several seasons of running. imo more valve seal lost to not cking seal by lapping than lapping a valve lightly to do so, even in the long run.
I had hell with the shimming cause the valves where sunk so far in the head, I had to make shims, throwing it together now. The valve seal is why I'm in this boat, the bike slowed down a lot and had low compression. So I pulled the head apart and none of the exhaust valves where sealing and one intake on ever cyl was touching the piston just enough to keep it clean.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I lost 18hp with that ported 06 head over a stock 08 (cleaned up head by me) same cams and degree 107/110. I had to use 3rd gen boots to mount my tb's which left a huge lip between the boots n head and the head had some leak down, but I still don't think those issues were worth 18 hp. I went from 152 on U4.4 to 133 on U4.4 both # numbers are after tuning.
 
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