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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
***The problem was resolved, read through to page 2***
I noticed last weekend after riding that I had some grime build up on the back of my motor near the swing arm pivot, due to an oil leak. At first it seemed like it was from the clutch cover. So I washed and degreased it well and bought some of UV Dye and discovered that it is coming from the engine cases. Take a look at the pics and you'll see. Its to the right of the bolt where a stud would be placed to align the cases during assembly. Its seeping from where the upper and lower cases join before the clutch cover.. Has anyone else experienced this problem? Whats involved for repair? I am not excited with the prospect of pulling the motor to replace a gasket.. :rolleyes:
It's an 07 with 4,500 miles...
 

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Yeah, those pictures are hard to distinguish anything from.

But, there is no gasket between the case halves. There some high temp silicone used very sparingly on the outside edges to help seal it, but it's primary an interference fit. Are you sure it's not from the back of the clutch cover? I'd probably just retorque the clutch cover and lower case bolts to make sure they're not a little bit loose. That's certainly easier than dropping the motor to split the cases! Which is what you'd have to do if that is truly where the leak is.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Yeah, those pictures are hard to distinguish anything from.

But, there is no gasket between the case halves. There some high temp silicone used very sparingly on the outside edges to help seal it, but it's primary an interference fit. Are you sure it's not from the back of the clutch cover? I'd probably just retorque the clutch cover and lower case bolts to make sure they're not a little bit loose. That's certainly easier than dropping the motor to split the cases! Which is what you'd have to do if that is truly where the leak is.
Thanks, but I am 99% certain that it is leaking before the clutch cover.. I thought the same thing. I bought the UV Dye and light kit and it shows with that its to the right of the case bolt.. I really hope it could be as simple as re-torquing.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Yeah, those pictures are hard to distinguish anything from.

But, there is no gasket between the case halves. There some high temp silicone used very sparingly on the outside edges to help seal it, but it's primary an interference fit. Are you sure it's not from the back of the clutch cover? I'd probably just retorque the clutch cover and lower case bolts to make sure they're not a little bit loose. That's certainly easier than dropping the motor to split the cases! Which is what you'd have to do if that is truly where the leak is.
Sky, you've helped me on a servo issue I had on my last 10 about a year ago.. I live in WC too, maybe we can meet up for a ride and I can show you the leak.
 

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Some bolts require loctite to actually keep oil from seeping out. If it is indeed the cases leaking, I would say F it. It is minor. If it is a bolt allowing oil to seep, pull the bolt, dry bolt, and loctite/reinstall it. My last Kawi had a few ign rotor bolts that were like that requiring loctite to stop oil leak.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Some bolts require loctite to actually keep oil from seeping out. If it is indeed the cases leaking, I would say F it. It is minor. If it is a bolt allowing oil to seep, pull the bolt, dry bolt, and loctite/reinstall it. My last Kawi had a few ign rotor bolts that were like that requiring loctite to stop oil leak.
Hmm, good point.. Those little 8mm bolts are a PIA to reach. I'll buy myself a long reach 8mm box wrench and get to the bolts to loctite them. Now that you say that, I noticed a drip where the bolt threads extrude through the lower case, almost more than the case seems.. I'll have to try some medium strength/blue loctite and tighten the bolts down as much as possible. At least its a start in the right direction.. Thanks for the pointer
 

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Discussion Starter #10
can't tell from the picture but mine had a leaky valve cover.
To see the leak look right below the plug with the red and white wires (home made brake light switch harness) and you'll see the area of the leak... From the edge of the case before it meets the clutch cover area to the 8mm case bolt on the right.

Def not the valve cover gasket, although that is very popular on the Gen 1's and on some Gen 2's from what I've seen. I wish it was that easy!!
 

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case leak

dont laugh, this works. fixed many leaks permantly on bikes leaking at cases, base gaskets and seals. if that is a case leak, clean it well with brake cleaner or acetone, completly removing all oil. use a Q tip saturated with super glue, locktite proffessional non gel is best,couple of minutes between a couple of swipes and leak repaired. works on most weeps and small leaks and will last.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
dont laugh, this works. fixed many leaks permantly on bikes leaking at cases, base gaskets and seals. if that is a case leak, clean it well with brake cleaner or acetone, completly removing all oil. use a Q tip saturated with super glue, locktite proffessional non gel is best,couple of minutes between a couple of swipes and leak repaired. works on most weeps and small leaks and will last.
Wow, sounds innovative! I'll try that along with some loctite on the case bolt. Thanks for the pointer
 

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i also had one of the large case bolts leak after reassembly, only leak i had. used the method described above going around the outside of the bolt head where it mates with case and bronze washer, dry as a bone now. hope this helps.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
i also had one of the large case bolts leak after reassembly, only leak i had. used the method described above going around the outside of the bolt head where it mates with case and bronze washer, dry as a bone now. hope this helps.
Sounds encouraging.. I plan on tackling it by Friday and will report back. I bought some of the Loctite Pro non-gel super glue and some long reach 8mm box wrenches today. I will report back as soon as I get a chance to try it. Until then, any and all additional suggestions, opinons, and insight is appreciated.
 

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just failed to mention giving cleaning solvent time to dry and be gone, no carb cleaner, contains oils.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
just failed to mention giving cleaning solvent time to dry and be gone, no carb cleaner, contains oils.
I was planning on using brake parts cleaner and then drying the area with my air compressor. I wanted to tackle it last night but the wife made dinner plans.. I'll see if I can get to it tonight and let it sit overnight to allow the Loctite Super Glue and Thread Sealer/Lock set and dry.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
So here's what I did.. I read online somewhere about a guy with an airplane engine that had a case leak and he plugged his crank case vent and put a vacuum machine of sorts on the motor to create negative pressure. So working on the same premise, I removed the vent hose from the air box and added a clear hose that was large enough to go over the vent hose and small enough to fit in my shop vac floor attachment adapter to allow for some extra room and to see if I was sucking any oil out by accident; it turned out to work great as I removed the oil filler cap and it was sucking hard. I also purchased some penetrating green loctite that is said to "wick" in between the cases. So I started by removing the back right small case bolt, sprayed the entire area down about three times with brake cleaner, wiped, sprayed again, and finally blew off the entire area with my air hose while the bolt was out. I cleaned the bolt and covered it in the green loctite and reinstalled it to finger tight while my shop vac was running. The idea is that the negative pressure/vacuum would suck in the loctite to the surrounding case seem. I also took a small paint brush and painted the case line around the bolt with the loctite, again while the vacuum was running. I then torqued down the right case bolt as tight as I could get it, as well as the bolt to the left which turned out to only be a little more than an 1/8 turn more than it already was. With the shop vac still runnning I painted on about three coats of the loctite pro non-gel super glue and the entire area that the oil was leaking from prior, about 3 minutes in between each coat. Now, as per the instructions and for good measure, I will wait 24 hours before starting it to see if it worked. It's tough not to try it now, but I don't want the splashing oil inside the motor to hinder both loctite's performance related to set time.
Here are some pics of the set up..
I will post a follow up tomorrow night once everything dries and I test it out
 

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Discussion Starter #18
So it worked! Big props to GAZX10 for his idea! I got home this evening and set up a fan to blow on the radiator, started her up, let it idle up to normal temp, gave it some light revs, let it hit 205 and the fan kicked on, a few more revs to bring back down under 200, idle for another few minutes and still no leak. I shut it down and an hour later I checked it again and its still dry. The real test will be when I get out tomorrow and run it for an hour or so. But unless I report back, problem solved. Thanks to everyone for their help.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
So it worked! Big props to GAZX10 for his idea! I got home this evening and set up a fan to blow on the radiator, started her up, let it idle up to normal temp, gave it some light revs, let it hit 205 and the fan kicked on, a few more revs to bring back down under 200, idle for another few minutes and still no leak. I shut it down and an hour later I checked it again and its still dry. The real test will be when I get out tomorrow and run it for an hour or so. But unless I report back, problem solved. Thanks to everyone for their help.
Rode 60 miles this morning, still dry.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Another 50 miles yesterday and still dry.. So I am comfortable saying that the problem has been solved. Thanks again to everyone for their help.
 
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