Kawasaki ZX-10R Forum banner

1 - 20 of 20 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hi everyone! New to the site.I have an 04 zx10,original owner-love the bike.I cannot ride it if the temp is over 75 and I'm stopped for more than 5 min. at a light.I've done a lot to try to fix the prob. but haven't fixed it yet.Any info would be appreciated.Thanks.Heres a list of what I've done.1.Muzzys aluminum fan.2.Fan bypass switch.3.New T-stat.4.Flushed rad.with prestone.5.Using Engine ice coolant.6.Took rad. to rad. shop to test flow-its ok.6.Checked wtr. pump-its fine.I don't want to replace rad.-very expensive.
 

·
REPOST Enforcement Mod
Joined
·
13,549 Posts
Welcome to the party!

So what are the other symptoms? Boiling the coolant in the overflow tank? How hot is it actually getting on the indicator? Leaking out anywhere?

Sounds to me like it's not holding pressure and that's usually due to a faulty radiator cap.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Thanks.I forgot to mention,I replaced the rad cap also.It's not leaking at all.I'm not if it's boiling over into the reserve tank.The temp. got up to 234 the other day when I was stopped at a light.-not good.It's fine as long as I'm moving.I think I may have to do more flushing of the system?Maybe some the water passages are blocked.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Left some words out.Really the only symptom there is,is when the bike is stopped at a light and the outside temp is 70+.It heats up within 5mins.The problem has been around for probably 5 yrs. or so.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
136 Posts
You could pressure test your cooling system with tool (free after return) from autozone to ensure 15psi is maintained. You could also try removing t-stat and running without one. Have you ever had silicate dropout occur with the green antifreeze that Kaw uses being used way too long. Looks like white or gray fine sand and will severely plug the radiator and cooling system. It takes a few flushes to remove it. Look in radiator and in water pump for white powder. You could also test coolant for combustion gases ($10 kit autozone) which tests for a cracked head or head gasket failure. HTH :smile:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Yes,there is that white powder on and in the radiator.Those tests you mentioned sound like good ideas,I'll try those.I appreciate the info!Thanks a lot.By the way I see your name is DaleC.Mine is DaleB.interesting.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
136 Posts
Yes,there is that white powder on and in the radiator.Those tests you mentioned sound like good ideas,I'll try those.I appreciate the info!Thanks a lot.By the way I see your name is DaleC.Mine is DaleB.interesting.
You need to do more flushes until powder is gone. One guy did 4 to clean his. Take cover off water pump to see impeller and powder. Keep flushing until it is clean. Google for "silicate dropout". Your cooling system flow is plugged up. Also clean the powder sludge from your coolant overflow bottle. Sludge always collects in the bottom. HTH :smile:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
That makes sense.I will try that.Thank You for the info,It will be good to not have to worry about overheating issues.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
85 Posts
I had an 05', also a friend had an 05' i rode with very frequently, he had a Muzzy power package with a dyno tune and was always overheating. I had a generic tune from PC3 with similar upgrades.... and never overheated. Have you had yours tuned? If not you could have it tuned, it may be running a little lean....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
overheating fixed!

I came to find out I never really had a overheating problem.The water temp. sensor was faulty!I was getting false temp. readings.What a head scratcher,it's finally fixed though.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
I bought a hand held laser tool at Autozone.$20.It shines a laser beam-small dot onto the surface and tells you the actual temp.I let the temp get up to 230 reading,started checking temps on the bike-water hose.They highest reading I found was 205.So the dash says it was overheating but the actual temp was fine.I will be replacing the sensor.Glad to get to the bottom of the problem.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
136 Posts
I bought a hand held laser tool at Autozone.$20.It shines a laser beam-small dot onto the surface and tells you the actual temp.I let the temp get up to 230 reading,started checking temps on the bike-water hose.They highest reading I found was 205.So the dash says it was overheating but the actual temp was fine.I will be replacing the sensor.Glad to get to the bottom of the problem.
The outside temperature of a water hose would always be lower than the water. The thick rubber hose doesn't transfer heat very well so isn't a temperature match for water inside. Your bike is probably running hot at 230. I don't think you are close to solving your problem. Don't be surprised if the new sensor reads 230 same as old one.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,616 Posts
^+1

I'm not sure off hand, but you can probably test the sensor itself for resistance.
 

·
REPOST Enforcement Mod
Joined
·
13,549 Posts
The outside temperature of a water hose would always be lower than the water. The thick rubber hose doesn't transfer heat very well so isn't a temperature match for water inside. Your bike is probably running hot at 230. I don't think you are close to solving your problem. Don't be surprised if the new sensor reads 230 same as old one.
^+1

I'm not sure off hand, but you can probably test the sensor itself for resistance.
:+2:

Using an external infrared temp gun won't really give you the necessary data. The cylinder walls internal to the motor are going to be considerably hotter than the external aluminum that you're measuring. I could understand a 20-30 degree temp difference between the 2 areas, if not more. Don't use this as a basis to determine if your problem is really a problem. Diagnose the sensor properly.

Also, the "laser" you see when using the gun has nothing to do with measuring the temp. The laser part is an aiming guide. The infrared sensor doesn't emit anything and just gathers the infrared information back at the gun. The laser itself returns no temp information. Block the laser output with your finger, and you'll still read the temp because the laser and sensor are 2 separate things. And the farther the gun is away from the source, the larger the error in the readings.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
241 Posts
Didn't read all the threads, but sounds like you have air in the coolant system, had this happen to me at Grattan this year, if I wasn't riding it was overheating. I thought I burped the system well enough but didn't. Make sure you get the air bubble out and with all the other repairs you've done I'd think that should fix it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
29 Posts
:+2:

Using an external infrared temp gun won't really give you the necessary data. The cylinder walls internal to the motor are going to be considerably hotter than the external aluminum that you're measuring. I could understand a 20-30 degree temp difference between the 2 areas, if not more. Don't use this as a basis to determine if your problem is really a problem. Diagnose the sensor properly.

Also, the "laser" you see when using the gun has nothing to do with measuring the temp. The laser part is an aiming guide. The infrared sensor doesn't emit anything and just gathers the infrared information back at the gun. The laser itself returns no temp information. Block the laser output with your finger, and you'll still read the temp because the laser and sensor are 2 separate things. And the farther the gun is away from the source, the larger the error in the readings.
:+1:

The coolant is insulated by whatever it is you are trying to take the measurement of - meaning you're probably not going to get to within 10% of the temperature of the coolant.
I'd go with flushing the sht out of your system.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
I took the temp reading on incoming water hose of the radiator.There was a huge difference in temps-versus readout on dash.I also knew that wasn't the exact temp,because the rubber hose insulates the antifreeze inside of it.It was close enough though.I tried everthing else before that.New t-stat,fan.bypass sw.for fan,radiator cap,flushed the system probably 5 times.I also knew I could test the resistance on the sensor to see if it was bad.I didn't have to because it was the very last thing to check on the cooling sytem.I replaced the water temp. sensor and the problem is fixed.The temp read out when its stopped and idling doesn't go over 200-205.The old sensor was giving false readings because it was failing.Thanks for all the input-appreciate it.
 
1 - 20 of 20 Posts
Top