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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys, just bought a gen4 zx10r and working on modding it out! Looking into changing up sprockets and chain. Wondering if +2 in the rear, leave the front stock at 17, how is this going to change my commute riding? I ride 100 miles a day to and from work, and I don’t want to be screaming down the highway at 10k+ RPM. What are y’all’s experience with this? Let me know! TIA!
 

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2011 ZX-10R. Black bikes matter!
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I'm -1+2 on my gen 4. At 80mph, engine speed is around 6200 rpms.

Acceleration is improved quite a bit, yet the extra cruising rpms aren't all that noticeable. The bike surely isn't "screaming" at highway speeds. If you went with only the +2, engine speed @ 80mph would be around 5800 rpm. Even with the gearing change, 10k rpm would be around 137mph with the +2 and around 130mph with the -1+2.

When I looked into buying sprockets, I was seriously considering leaving the front sprocket stock but now I am glad I did not. Taking off from a dead stop is much easier on the bike with the -1+2 and it allows you to keep the engine in it's powerband much more often. It will still do around 180mph in 6th, so top speed isn't changed all that much.

Believe it or not, my fuel mileage at highway speeds (around 80-85 mph) actually increased noticeably.

Here's a gearing calculator if you'd like to compare ratios further.

Gearing Commander - Motorcycle Speed and Drive Train Calculator v7
 

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I'm currently running a - 2 +5 on my Gen 4 on street

Its killing me.

In a few hours I am going to a - 1 +3.

The bike came with the current gearing on it - ex track bike.

I'm toning it down a bit and making it more street friendly.

I also used the gearing commander site to make the calculations as to what stock was, what the current gearing is and what I am going to.

It's pretty accurate as to what the current gearing is versus the top speed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I'm currently running a - 2 +5 on my Gen 4 on street

Its killing me.

In a few hours I am going to a - 1 +3.

The bike came with the current gearing on it - ex track bike.

I'm toning it down a bit and making it more street friendly.

I also used the gearing commander site to make the calculations as to what stock was, what the current gearing is and what I am going to.

It's pretty accurate as to what the current gearing is versus the top speed.
The stock on these bikes is 17/39. So if that helps you out at all. And wow that’s a huge difference you are running now!
 

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I'm currently running a - 2 +5 on my Gen 4 on street

Its killing me.

In a few hours I am going to a - 1 +3.

The bike came with the current gearing on it - ex track bike.

I'm toning it down a bit and making it more street friendly.

I also used the gearing commander site to make the calculations as to what stock was, what the current gearing is and what I am going to.

It's pretty accurate as to what the current gearing is versus the top speed.
Holy crap, -2+5 is nuts! That would put you at close to 7100rpm @ 80mph and top speed of around 150mph. Great for the 1/8 mile but absolutely horrible for anything else. With a fresh stock length chain, I'm not so sure that those would even fit. A -1+3 combo is real close to what I am running and is an ideal combo for the street.

One thing to keep in mind, after the swap your bike is going to behave very differently on the bottom end. Until you get used to it, your bike will feel much slower if you launch at the same rpm. It will still take off like a rocketship, you just have to raise your engine speed up a tad on launch.
 

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I'm currently running a - 2 +5 on my Gen 4 on street

Its killing me.

In a few hours I am going to a - 1 +3.

The bike came with the current gearing on it - ex track bike.

I'm toning it down a bit and making it more street friendly.

I also used the gearing commander site to make the calculations as to what stock was, what the current gearing is and what I am going to.

It's pretty accurate as to what the current gearing is versus the top speed.
Depending on chain length, you could have just swapped the front sprocket out and left the +5 in place. The difference between 17/44 (stock front +5 rear) and 16/42 (-1 front + 3 rear) is only around 1.4%.
 

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The stock on these bikes is 17/39. So if that helps you out at all. And wow that’s a huge difference you are running now!
Yeah, thanks. Just got back from the first ride. Far more friendlier on the street for sure.

A - 2 +5 for the street is not ideal for my style of riding. Lol!

Holy crap, -2+5 is nuts! That would put you at close to 7100rpm @ 80mph and top speed of around 150mph. Great for the 1/8 mile but absolutely horrible for anything else. With a fresh stock length chain, I'm not so sure that those would even fit. A -1+3 combo is real close to what I am running and is an ideal combo for the street.

One thing to keep in mind, after the swap your bike is going to behave very differently on the bottom end. Until you get used to it, your bike will feel much slower if you launch at the same rpm. It will still take off like a rocketship, you just have to raise your engine speed up a tad on launch.
You are indeed correct. I noticed the lower RPM from a standing start, however it's not as pronounced on my bike - there are other extras which lower the rotating mass.

However, as a street rider and local canyon carver, I'm not so worried about the launch off the line. I'd rather focus on getting the gearing friendlier for the street and making sure the chassis is on point for the mountain passes/canyons.

Depending on chain length, you could have just swapped the front sprocket out and left the +5 in place. The difference between 17/44 (stock front +5 rear) and 16/42 (-1 front + 3 rear) is only around 1.4%.
I thought of this as well and I maybe would have been able to get away with it, however the original chain had a tight spot in it..... A bad one in fact...... I could feel it at certain RPM's.

I also counted 117 links, so it was close to the end of the swing arm.

I decided to rather change the chain at the same time, throw in the lightweight sprocket and go down to 112 links. The shorter wheel base is a plus too.

The - 1 +3 with the shorter 520 chain made a great difference for the street.

I almost wish it was the first thing I did before even throwing new rubber on. Lol!
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Holy crap, -2+5 is nuts! That would put you at close to 7100rpm @ 80mph and top speed of around 150mph. Great for the 1/8 mile but absolutely horrible for anything else. With a fresh stock length chain, I'm not so sure that those would even fit. A -1+3 combo is real close to what I am running and is an ideal combo for the street.

One thing to keep in mind, after the swap your bike is going to behave very differently on the bottom end. Until you get used to it, your bike will feel much slower if you launch at the same rpm. It will still take off like a rocketship, you just have to raise your engine speed up a tad on launch.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks for all the good information guys! Sorry if my posts look weird in some comments I’m trying to get the hang of these forums! I appreciate y’all!
 

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Thanks for all the good information guys! Sorry if my posts look weird in some comments I’m trying to get the hang of these forums! I appreciate y’all!
What are the mods on your bike?

Or is it still stock?

What did you ride before?
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
What are the mods on your bike?

Or is it still stock?

What did you ride before?
I have a bunch of cosmetic stuff done, and performance wise…changed out levers, steel braided brake lines, power commander with flash and tune, full exhaust, velocity stacks, and now changing the sprockets chain and putting some chain adjusters on. I just do a lot of highway commuting so I don’t want to change it too much so that my RPM is super high cruising 90 on the freeways. Also, anyone know how it will affect the mileage cluster? Probably will read more than it really is after the swap right?
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
What are the mods on your bike?

Or is it still stock?

What did you ride before?
and have always ridden GSXRs, 750s, this is my first liter bike, although I had a hayabusa for a short time.
 

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I have a bunch of cosmetic stuff done, and performance wise…changed out levers, steel braided brake lines, power commander with flash and tune, full exhaust, velocity stacks, and now changing the sprockets chain and putting some chain adjusters on. I just do a lot of highway commuting so I don’t want to change it too much so that my RPM is super high cruising 90 on the freeways. Also, anyone know how it will affect the mileage cluster? Probably will read more than it really is after the swap right?
-1 on the front sprocket is equal to around +3 on the rear.

Stock front with a +2 rear isn't that much of a change. Have a look at the gearing commander website link.

Youll get a good idea as to what the change will be versus stock setup.

and have always ridden GSXRs, 750s, this is my first liter bike, although I had a hayabusa for a short time.
Ah, I see.

On all my supers, I've run a - 1 +2 setup. It does over read by about 10% I think?

I'm not so fazed about the over reading, I'm not paying attention to speed limits and such like personally. I ride at my level and within my limits based on the conditions.

Make the change and see how you like it?

Will you run a stock chain pitch?
 

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I've commuted a significant number of highway miles on 3 different ratios.

Stock 17/39
16/39 (pretty close to your target 17/41)
16/41
I'd have to say that a found 16/39 to be quite a bit more pleasant for all around riding than the 16/41. 16/41 is great for city streets but I'm probably going back to 16/39 (or 16/40) next time so that I can cruise more comfortably on the highway.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
-1 on the front sprocket is equal to around +3 on the rear.

Stock front with a +2 rear isn't that much of a change. Have a look at the gearing commander website link.

Youll get a good idea as to what the change will be versus stock setup.



Ah, I see.

On all my supers, I've run a - 1 +2 setup. It does over read by about 10% I think?

I'm not so fazed about the over reading, I'm not paying attention to speed limits and such like personally. I ride at my level and within my limits based on the conditions.

Make the change and see how you like it?

Will you run a stock chain pitch?
No will change to a 520 chain. I also read that the gen4 has the Speedo and Odo on the wheel so I won’t need to install a Speedo healer or any thing like that. The correct? And yea I think ima pull the trigger on it and if I don’t like it I’ll jus buy a stock size sprocket and go back down to stock. No biggie!
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I've commuted a significant number of highway miles on 3 different ratios.

Stock 17/39
16/39 (pretty close to your target 17/41)
16/41
I'd have to say that a found 16/39 to be quite a bit more pleasant for all around riding than the 16/41. 16/41 is great for city streets but I'm probably going back to 16/39 (or 16/40) next time so that I can cruise more comfortably on the highway.
Exactly! Don’t want to be super uncomfortable on the highway! I think I will do the +2 rear try it out and go from there for sure! I ride way to much highway to do the -1/+2 for sure!
 

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Exactly! Don’t want to be super uncomfortable on the highway! I think I will do the +2 rear try it out and go from there for sure! I ride way to much highway to do the -1/+2 for sure!
I also ride highway.


On my previous Superbikes I commuted as well with a - 1 +2 and didn't have an issue with it. But that's me.

Running the - 1 +3 today on the highway, I was not fazed at all and will most likely stay with that setup. My previous bikes were also different brands of manufacturers and engine configurations with different transmission gearing ratios and final drives.

I do currently have the added advantage of BST's, lightweight sprockets, 520 chain and ceramic bearings and also the 200/55 rear...... These mods aren't gearing related, but have a great effect on rolling inertia obviously.

My bike is now a leisure bike though so I also have that in my advantage too.

Just have a look at the gearing commander website though.

Itll help you compare what you're running as stock versus the changes you want to make with estimated RPM's and speeds in gears at constant throttle.

I was able to calculate chain length to the link and didn't have to bother with cutting links or any of that nonsense.
 
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