[Vonstallin]

I finally have my Gen 4 Race bike gearing set decent after a few years.
But my Gen 5 tranny is so different.
For most of my knee dragging turns where Im using 3rd gear it feels a tad bit lazy, and 2nd gear feels a tad bit twitchy.
Normally I would start off with just changing the front sprocket to -1F.
and see.
But I wanted to see what others are dong b4 I do that.

My Gen 4 Street = -1F/+0R
Gen 4 Track = -2F/+0R
Gen 5 is still stock.

 

[Honey Badger]

I went with -1 +1. At the pace I was running this year (slow AF), it was fine, plenty of power where I wanted it, but some of that was mapping, too (used the Graves map for the exhaust I got).

Street I'm not sure, I've only taken my new-to-me street bike out twice so far, and I know there was a lot of time spent on the tune, that thing is a bag of giggles, but my gas mileage suuuuuucks! Haven't even checked what gearing is on there as I'll deal with it until it needs a chain (may be stock still), and until I get the suspension swapped out, that's the least of my worries so no help there.

 

[Lanister]

It seems like people are going -1 on the front (16) and either leaving rear at 39 (stock) or going +1 (40). I bought both, as I know between the tracks around here, you need to have different gearing.

 

[Victors]

I was -1 in front for two days.. just seemed way too much compared to my gen 4 with -1 +1.. just seemed to be too much rpm at higher speeds, plus I do a lot of roll racing with my friends and would lose too much top end to be competitive.

I swapped it out for stock. I will try +1 in the rear in the spring. I hate how they did the gearing this time around.

 

[ladwign]

I've got -1 front, + 2 rear and it works great so far. My track of choice is Blackhawk Farms which is pretty short. I don't get out of 5th gear on the front straight at 150 mph. I've only had it at the track a couple times, as it was my streetbike last season. On the street it was perfect too because you can actually use 6th gear. Stock, 6th is just an overdrive on the interstate. I bought it to convert it to track duty, which is about 75% complete right now, but I didn't mind cruising at a little higher rpm. My trackbike before this was a 600 (Triumph Daytona 675) so it was a higher revving bike anyways. I'll change the front sprocket back to stock for Road America this year though.

 

[Vonstallin]

I was hoping to do a -1F, but it sounds like I might have to just do a +1R

 

[scout]

not about anything but the lap time. End of story.

 

[trackaddict]

I dropped 1 tooth on the CS. Left the rear stock. Seems perfect to me now. This along with the Woolich flash makes the bike feel just right, for the street anyway. I did not make it to the track this year, sadly. I felt the stock gearing and fueling were extremely soft. It feels like a liter bike should, now.

 

[CanyonCarver]

Gen5 Track = -2F/+0R

 

[mpp12]

gen5 on the street my tune for customers is +1R, that is almost same as gen4 -1F.

track, gen5, I would start -1F, see how it feels, and start from there...

if you want the excel file I use I have one with gen4 and gen5 on the other sheet, so you can compare, just needs your tire circunference...

[email protected]

 

[Vonstallin]

gen5 on the street my tune for customers is +1R, that is almost same as gen4 -1F.

track, gen5, I would start -1F, see how it feels, and start from there...

if you want the excel file I use I have one with gen4 and gen5 on the other sheet, so you can compare, just needs your tire circunference...

[email protected]

That would be cool, thanks.
I have my tire circumference also on my phone. I used that in the TC portion of the Woolich Flash (Pirelli Super Corsa SP 200/55)

 

[Niner1000RR]

No street here, but I range between 17/40 and 17/42 depending on the track.

 

[cca101]

Track only here, I do 16-39 or 16-40. I prefer 16-39 so I can use first gear to rocket out of slow corners.
Keeping the stock front at 17 and doing 40-42 in rear like Niner1000RR is actually better for chain wear, but you will need to get longer chain to keep your wheelbase fairly long.

 

[Ron Mears]

Gen5 Track = -2F/+0R

Are you having any clearance issues between the swingarm pivot and the chain? I test fit a 15 to the counter shaft and even with a 41 on the rear, which would raise the chain a little, there didn't seem to be enough room between the pivot and the chain at the swingarm angle I run. So I haven't gone any smaller than 16 front.

 

[CanyonCarver]

Are you having any clearance issues between the swingarm pivot and the chain? I test fit a 15 to the counter shaft and even with a 41 on the rear, which would raise the chain a little, there didn't seem to be enough room between the pivot and the chain at the swingarm angle I run. So I haven't gone any smaller than 16 front.

No problems at all after 2 years of track duty (~7k miles or so), and 2 sets of gears/chain.

 

[Siwa]

15-38
Equivalent to 17-43, but has improved drive on corner exit due to the reduced squat to stand range of the swing arm. Also slightly reduces wheelbase.

Have to be very precise with the throttle on exit though else you can end up robbing yourself of time due to the front lifting and the rear stepping out.

Also make sure the swing arm and chain have the correct measurements to ensure that under decel when the rear end squats, the chain goes in a straight line from the top of the front sprocket to the rear. When you downshift the chain ripples like a whip crack and if it has to move up or down to meet the front sprocket teeth then it can jump a tooth or completely jump the sprocket.

 

[mikedronet831]

Sorry to dig up an old thread... Wanted to gather more info and see if others tried other combos. Right now, I'm running -1/+2 for racing, but I still want more drive/acceleration... I'm just not pulling out hard enough onto the straights. Anyone have any input? I'm thinking -1/+4 or -2/+1. Correct me if I'm wrong, but from my understanding that 1 down up front equates similarly to +3 in the rear and those 2 combos should provide the same result. I'm just not sure if just 1 more tooth in the rear is enough.

Coming down the front straight, of ThunderHill Raceway (longest straight in the AFM circuit) I'm barely clicking into 6th before hammering the brakes preparing for turn 1. So I know the motor has more left with higher gearing, and if I'm wasting the time going through these gears anyway... Why not use every bit of the powerband?

 

[dudewhrsmybike]

I tried a few different street gearing combinations on my Gen4 and finally ended up with 17/41 (+2 rear)
I'll probably stick with OEM front sprockets with the built in rubber. Feels much smoother than aftermarket sprockets. Just my experience.
I didn't read up on here and do my homework before choosing a gearing selection for my Gen5.
I went 17/41 before really even riding it stock and I'm seeing that the gearbox is def not the same as my Gen4. I'll likely throw the stock rear back on and do some more testing with that. I'll probably end up going 17/40 and just keep the 41T for trackdays.
Not gonna bother with a 520 setup, mainly so I can keep using the OEM front sprocket.

 

[ddipaola]

I finally have my Gen 4 Race bike gearing set decent after a few years.
But my Gen 5 tranny is so different.
For most of my knee dragging turns where Im using 3rd gear it feels a tad bit lazy, and 2nd gear feels a tad bit twitchy.
Normally I would start off with just changing the front sprocket to -1F.
and see.
But I wanted to see what others are dong b4 I do that.

My Gen 4 Street = -1F/+0R
Gen 4 Track = -2F/+0R
Gen 5 is still stock.

I went -1F and it's working really well for me. My first session was straight chop with the throttle (this bike is extremely sensitive) so I say you just gotta work a little better on the throttle play, just butter into it, and maybe reduce a little slack... then you should be golden. 1st gear... forget that even exists lol.

I may end up doing a -1+2 because my straightaways don't really give enough room to hit over 150 (safely), but I'll wait till I get some more track days and just overall experience under my belt before I start making the bike itself better... You don't need to modify the chain if you're doing a -1F so it's a harmless mod.

 

[Vonstallin]

I ended up doing

Gen 5 street -1F/ +0R
Gen 4 Race = -2F/ +0R

these both I like...