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Discussion Starter #1
Does anyone know how the make the gear shift lever more precise, if you make contact with the lever you would notice that first it bends from the pivot then transfer the force...

I just want to make it tighter, so all the force applied is transferred..

thanks
 

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Nothing wrong with oem's and I pound the crap outta it. up and down, four hours per day no clutch; nearly 100k miles. Math is done for you.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
the question was not, is it durable...

I just want to be more precise, like aftermarket ones....
 

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I had that problem on my concours... I replaced the larger shoulder/stepped pivot bolt with 4 or 5 very small ball bearings and a smaller bolt. The bearings were very cheap (I got a stack of 10 for about 6 bucks), and it took out all of the lateral slop. I haven't looked at the set up for the Gen 4/5, but if you take a quick picture of it apart I could tell you if it would work. :)

EDIT: This is a lot like what I did, but I changed a few things for my preference. IIRC, I used the same bearings on a Gen 2 10R to clean up that shifter as well.
 

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make sure you come back to tell us, what you find, and how you "fixed it". enquiring minds, want to know. :D Ski
 

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For sure. I have a few of those bearings still laying around too.... if the measurements are the same I'll throw them in the mail to you.... just post up your dimensions when you get the chance.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
This could be done 2 ways one its fitting a tighter brass insert so its way less play with the ss bolt Another to get a ball bearing insert it in the bolt of course you have to machine the bolt and press the lever


Enviado desde mi iPhone utilizando Tapatalk
 

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A brass insert will have the same problem... just a little less so.

Ball bearings work... I didn't have to press mine in, though they were a .001"-ish loose fit right out of the package. I did peen the edge of the lever to help retain the outer bearing.... so you could call it a press fit at the end of the day. ;) I also used an off the shelf allen head bolt from the hardware store...... the whole set-up has been flawless for about 40K miles now. The original set-up had a plastic bushing and it flopped quite a bit. The transmission is kinda clunky on that bike for starters, and that plus the slop made quickshifter performance less than stellar. Seeing as how no one makes rearsets for a C14, that's what I had to do.
 

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What is the ID of the shift lever, and what is the bolt size? If it's the same as the previous gens I'll snail mail you the extra bearings I have and you can experiment. :) Hell, if you're willing to ship the lever back and forth I'll set it up for you... It just sucks having a bike down that long for shipping.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I have a spare set of lever and rearset.

I will ship it to you, no worries on time...
 

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Got the lever today.

The gen 4 lever is completely different from the last 8 years or so of Kawasaki shifters, btw. Go figure. Honestly, I thought it was off of some POS 80's bike with how clunkly/large it was when it came out of the box.... feels like a real step backwards in design.

Still, I think I can whip something up that will help you out. There are two issues causing the excessive play... one being the pivot and the other being the pin for the socket joint on the linkage rod. I'll peen/press the pin to get rid of the play there, as that just looks like poor fit/wear in the lever itself. I'll likely carve up a bushing out of Oilite for the pivot, as the bearings I have won't work for this. I will take up some measurements and see if an off the shelf bearing will work for other people, however.

Pics to come as I get into it more.....
 

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Discussion Starter #17
good luck, the more I see the one that I have in use right now (same play), the more I see POS it is...

thanks in advance
 

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hoping this can be made as a kit for member for future. I would be interested. thank you for doing this Spaz, good on you for helping a fellow forum goer. Ski
 

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So far I've found a radial ball bearing that should fit... it's in the post as of last week. The bearing is cheap (like 2 or 3 bucks), and can probably be had cheaper in bulk. It will need 2 thin spacers/washers of just the right size to center it, but I can cut those up on the lathe if they aren't in a hardware bin somewhere. It will also require a new 8mm bolt without a shoulder; I'll use a button head socket bolt like it is now to keep it clean looking.

I peened the shit out of the backside of the ball mount and that took all the slop out of that.... short of replacing it that's the best that can be done with that. If one was inclined to spend a little more money, the stock joint could be removed and replaced with a male threaded heim joint... would probably add 10-20 bucks to the cost of the whole project if you buy them one at a time. But that would be the 'professional way' to fix it. I'll look up prices/parts on that too if there is interest.

All in all, it looks like 7-10 bucks in hardware (minus any heim joint trickery) and a few minutes assembling. The shifter bore that the bearing goes into may have to be peened or sized to retain the bearing properly, but I'll cross that bridge when it gets here. I'll post pictures of everything once it's done for the DIY crowd. :)
 
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