[andrewinbriz]

Hello from Oz.
I'm installing Galfer lines to the front. They use the OEM hard tubing.
I assume the nut is undone, and that tubing is attached to the Galfer block.
But the nut is mega tight, and if I keep going I'm going to round it.
I assume it undoes anticlockwise.
Any thoughts on how to loosen the nut?? There is another to come, which just fills me with pleasure.
Any help appreciated.
Regards, Andrew

 

[SkyDork]

Well, there's really no way to round it if you're using the right size crescent wrench. If you're trying to use an adjustable wrench or anything other than the right size, stop.

Get the right size wrench on it, hold it firmly, and give it a good smack with your hand to break it loose.

The thread should be normal - counter clockwise to loosen.

And make sure you've bled the fluid out of the system before opening that nut. Any residual hydraulic pressure will make it harder.

 

[andrewinbriz]

Thanks for your reply. Yes, am using correct size wrench (10mm), and non adjustable. Open ended of course. Have drained fluid.
But have to say, on every japanese bike I've owned, in places there's been this curious metal alloy. Half cheese!

 

[SkyDork]

Thanks for your reply. Yes, am using correct size wrench (10mm), and non adjustable. Open ended of course. Have drained fluid.

But have to say, on every japanese bike I've owned, in places there's been this curious metal alloy. Half cheese!

Try giving it a sharp tug to try to crack it free then. Otherwise, I'd probably pull the bolt mounting the block itself and then try holding the nut with the wrench and turning the block with an adjustable wrench. A bigger wrench on the block would give you more torque on it.

 

[Porschenut]

Why don't you try treating it with some penetrating oil? I've always had good success with that stuff.

 

[andrewinbriz]

Yes, I tried penetrating oil before I posted. Probably should have left it overnight. I removed the 8mm bolt holding the mounting block. I would say that 8mm bolt, given the effort required, was at least 35 to 40 foot/pound tight. That seems crazy tight for such a bolt. 8 to 12 or 14 ft/pd maybe, and maybe with a medium threadlock. It just seems like a lunatic tightened everything. Trying to hold the nut and turning the mounting block now.

 

[andrewinbriz]

It just isn't moving. I've put some penetrating oil on it. I'm on holidays at the moment, so don't need to rush. But I am dumbfounded how freakin crazy tight everything is. Maybe it's just anything to do with the abs. When I installed lines on the k6 gsxr1000 (non abs), it took 30mins total, including bleeding time. I'll let the oil penetrate and have a think about it. Would like to use heat, but not possible there. Tho a hair dryer might work.
On a positive note, I installed a wilbers rear shock, with a 3mm shim, yesterday. The difference in handling is night and day. I've only taken it on a 100 klm test ride, but the handling was outstanding.
So, the nut isn't moving.
Holding the nut, and trying to turn the block, also doesn't work.

 

[andrewinbriz]

The motherfudger is loose. I used a cheap little gas torch. There's another oem hard tube to use with a galfer female connector to come. I'm not even going to try with a spanner first. If it's as tight as the other one, it won't work. I'm going to start with a couple of heat cycles, then try the wrench. Thanks to those for their advice. It is appreciated.

 

[RBZ10R]

I had this same issue rounded off the hose.

managed to get the spiegler line on but would never seal properly so just when with Hel non abs lines. waste of time using the abs kits, dont need abs on the front for street riding anyway, if the conditions are that shit you dont flog it simple

 

[mpp12]

Was thinking of that kit but now Im thinking it.....

 

[andrewinbriz]

I'm embarrassed to admit I've only fitted half the new lines, from the master cylinder to the first oem hard tubing. In the time to took to half do this job, in the past I can count lines I've fitted to six different bikes, 4 of my own, and helped with another 2. But all not abs, and so none had the crazy tightness of the abs nuts.
The galfer lines have an olive inversor, that fits in the galfer male junction, where the oem hard tubing screws into (so 2 of). They are loose, you just put them in the bottom of the female junction, and screw in the hard tubing. In the oem junction there is a similar item, but it is fixed. Excellent.
If that little brass item moves, like gets cocked, is not sitting perfecting flat when you are screwing in the male oem hard tubing, it will cause a leak. I discovered this at my first bleed. It's easy to move the female junction, tilt it, as you're working, and this may move the item out of position.
Galfer needs to fix those brass olive inversors into their junctions, make it as good as oem.
I've worked on my bikes soley for at least the last 15 years, but I'm still shocked at how big a pain in the ass this job was.
If you have abs and rubber lines, want to keep abs but add steel lines, pay someone to do it. If your oem fittings were as tight as mine, pay someone to have that headache.
Cheers