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My gen 5 did 181.97 with just a decat Woolwich flash and map by MSS no need to go to the expense of headers unless your doing more engine work IMHO.
 

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My gen 5 did 181.97 with just a decat Woolwich flash and map by MSS no need to go to the expense of headers unless your doing more engine work IMHO.
so no need to get a full exhaust system unless you're doing engine work? i disagree, but to each their own.
 

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The headers on the gen 5 are so good its not necessarily the case that a full system is going to improve things without doing cam's etc and the numbers prove it! I'm just saying why spend 1k plus on a full system when it makes the same power with just a decat.
I'll find my dyno print out and post it up.
 

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The headers on the gen 5 are so good its not necessarily the case that a full system is going to improve things without doing cam's etc and the numbers prove it! I'm just saying why spend 1k plus on a full system when it makes the same power with just a decat.
I'll find my dyno print out and post it up.

Top end power is very close with both systems but the full system gives a good bump 5-8k rpm that can really effect how the bike jumps out of the slow corners on track. So, if you're just looking for top end dyno numbers then stick with the link/can but if you plan to race, the best option is full system.


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I totally agree with you but for anyone who is just using it as a road bike with the odd track day it's pointless so the link pipe gives average the Joe (like myself) options.
 

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I totally agree with you but for anyone who is just using it as a road bike with the odd track day it's pointless so the link pipe gives average the Joe (like myself) options.
IMO it's just the opposite, when on track you're revs stay where the slip and full make the same/similar power. Whereas on the street you live in that 4-9k where the power and tq gains are huge with full. Having said this I'll probly go slip just cuz I'm not feeling the header install and I use generic flashes so there would be no real tune to exploit full system fully. I can honestly say the biggest misconception on these bikes is the stock header being so good nothing aftermarket touches it.. I've spoken with guys that tear it up on track, race, etc seems to be a common thought for some reason. IMO it's because dyno warriors go by the peak hp and ignore the actual graph as a whole. My.02
 

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It's useful for both street and track. There's times when your below 8k rpm and need that grunt. These bikes lack midrange so anything you can do to help it is worth the money. Graves allowes you to upgrade in pieces and they've also got a tune for their full system. Install is a breeze and the worst part is removing the rad which you could probably get away with just removing the hoses and lower mount to swing it out of the way but it risks damaging the fine on the back and I hate bent fins on my rad lol.
 

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lol, I have been preaching that for years, removing the rad to avoid damaging the fins on the back, and usually get laughed at. But I agree 100%, wouldn't do it any other way.

If you look at the back of most peoples rads, there more beat up than the front, and that was from their header install.

Back of my rad looks brand new, so does the front because I also add that useless junk rad guards. Well others call it useless junk but I use them.
What I do the protect the radiator is cut a piece of cardboard out and tape it on covering the fins. Takes 1 minute to do. Then no financial damage.

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I already have a slip on installed on my gen4. I really want to get the Graves headers.
 
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lol, I have been preaching that for years, removing the rad to avoid damaging the fins on the back, and usually get laughed at. But I agree 100%, wouldn't do it any other way.

If you look at the back of most peoples rads, there more beat up than the front, and that was from their header install.

Back of my rad looks brand new, so does the front because I also add that useless junk rad guards. Well others call it useless junk but I use them.
Completely agree! Taking your time and doing it right shows in the end. A good quality build looks like it rolled of the assembly line with all the go fast parts.

What I do the protect the radiator is cut a piece of cardboard out and tape it on covering the fins. Takes 1 minute to do. Then no financial damage.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk[/QUOTE

Good trick!]
 

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I'd love to get out on mine probably gonna be a couple of months yet at least as I live in he UK and don't do rain and ice on the 10r!
 

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Nells is the BEST in the business!!!!He flashed my 2016 and gave me ideas to make it run like a BEAST!! I will be sending him my ECU for my 2017 ZX10RR, Nice job and # with the Graves, hoping I can get similar # with my Akro...
 
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