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so no need to get a full exhaust system unless you're doing engine work? i disagree, but to each their own.My gen 5 did 181.97 with just a decat Woolwich flash and map by MSS no need to go to the expense of headers unless your doing more engine work IMHO.
ZX10RArcher, could you please advice how to make ignition timing better? I'm bit lost with ignition timing adjustments.tuning and ignition timing.
The headers on the gen 5 are so good its not necessarily the case that a full system is going to improve things without doing cam's etc and the numbers prove it! I'm just saying why spend 1k plus on a full system when it makes the same power with just a decat.
I'll find my dyno print out and post it up.
IMO it's just the opposite, when on track you're revs stay where the slip and full make the same/similar power. Whereas on the street you live in that 4-9k where the power and tq gains are huge with full. Having said this I'll probly go slip just cuz I'm not feeling the header install and I use generic flashes so there would be no real tune to exploit full system fully. I can honestly say the biggest misconception on these bikes is the stock header being so good nothing aftermarket touches it.. I've spoken with guys that tear it up on track, race, etc seems to be a common thought for some reason. IMO it's because dyno warriors go by the peak hp and ignore the actual graph as a whole. My.02I totally agree with you but for anyone who is just using it as a road bike with the odd track day it's pointless so the link pipe gives average the Joe (like myself) options.
What I do the protect the radiator is cut a piece of cardboard out and tape it on covering the fins. Takes 1 minute to do. Then no financial damage.lol, I have been preaching that for years, removing the rad to avoid damaging the fins on the back, and usually get laughed at. But I agree 100%, wouldn't do it any other way.
If you look at the back of most peoples rads, there more beat up than the front, and that was from their header install.
Back of my rad looks brand new, so does the front because I also add that useless junk rad guards. Well others call it useless junk but I use them.
Completely agree! Taking your time and doing it right shows in the end. A good quality build looks like it rolled of the assembly line with all the go fast parts.lol, I have been preaching that for years, removing the rad to avoid damaging the fins on the back, and usually get laughed at. But I agree 100%, wouldn't do it any other way.
If you look at the back of most peoples rads, there more beat up than the front, and that was from their header install.
Back of my rad looks brand new, so does the front because I also add that useless junk rad guards. Well others call it useless junk but I use them.
What I do the protect the radiator is cut a piece of cardboard out and tape it on covering the fins. Takes 1 minute to do. Then no financial damage.
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Good trick!]
Power curve looks amazing on the Graves full system that Nels tested.I already have a slip on installed on my gen4. I really want to get the Graves headers.
I may need to ride my bike again to confirm that? Seems to me it works down to 3500.. you using Woolrich or FTECUI find that with the clutch less down shift it's always in the right rev range after all it doesn't work below 5k ;-)