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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok, so I have an 07 zx10r motor that is going in a shifter kart. I have the motor on an engine stand right now and wanted to make sure it would run before I start modifying the frame. I got the motor (complete from oil pan to throttle bodies and header to radiator/fan (harness as well)) and separate from that I purchased a guage, ecu, voltage regulator, starter relay, fuel pump, start/kill switch, junction box, airbox and i THINK that is all.

Well, when I hook up the battery, I get a signal to the gauge and it lights up. The fuel pump, however, does not prime. I can turn the motor over, but it will not start obviously as the fuel pump is not working. I tested the pump and it does work, so I am guessing it is something to do with the wiring somewhere.

Does anyone have any tips or clues or guesses as to where I am going wrong? I am an engineer, but am mechanical, not electrical-and for a reason! So I admit I am no professional in the electrical world.

For what its worth, the gauge is flashing FI and oil pressure (I just changed the oil/filter last week in anticipation for getting this motor running).

If I am leaving info out, please let me know. I do not have any lights or the kickstand switch (if that has anything to do with the fuel pump?).

I also do not have the key lock set. In order to bypass that, I jumped 2 of the connectors to get power for ignition.

Any help would be greatly appreciated as I am very anxious to get this motor running so I can start on the chassis!!!
 

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I am going to say that there is more involved with the ignition than just jumping the wires. The kickstand switch will need to be jumped if it isn't already.
 

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I don't think it would turn over if it kickstand switch wasn't jumped. Have you tried pouring gas in the throttle bodies just to start it and make sure you're getting spark. If you're not it could help chase down where the problem is in the harness.
 

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Actually it would in neutral. There's another guy on here that was having problems starting after he swapped chassis. Try doing a search. I'll look and see if I can find the link for ya.
 

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its something with you jumping the ignition wires. i had a 2003 zx6r that i put a remote start on, and i ran into a problem with one of the ignition wires. there was either one or two ignition wires that were 12 volts, but there was also another one that was about 9 volts. if this wire was given 12 volts, the ecu would let the fuel pump turn on. its kind of like a safety immobilzer feature that makes it more difficult to just jump wires together and hotwire the bike.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I am going to say that there is more involved with the ignition than just jumping the wires. The kickstand switch will need to be jumped if it isn't already.
I was assuming that the motor wouldn't even turn over if the kickstand switch was a problem. What does the kickstand switch wire on the harness look like? I still have tons of open connections (mostly lights I am assuming) and am not exactly sure which connector is for the kickstand switch. Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Actually it would in neutral. There's another guy on here that was having problems starting after he swapped chassis. Try doing a search. I'll look and see if I can find the link for ya.
Thanks! I have not tried putting gas in the throttle bodies to see if it would start that way (and I would love to just hear it one time haha).
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
its something with you jumping the ignition wires. i had a 2003 zx6r that i put a remote start on, and i ran into a problem with one of the ignition wires. there was either one or two ignition wires that were 12 volts, but there was also another one that was about 9 volts. if this wire was given 12 volts, the ecu would let the fuel pump turn on. its kind of like a safety immobilzer feature that makes it more difficult to just jump wires together and hotwire the bike.
hmmm...what did you do to overcome the problem? I have been trying to read through the manual to see if I am missing something necessary or what. The only thing I have jumped is the brown and white wire off of the key-lock which wires ignition to battery. Am I supposed to jump something else there? The other things I see are labeled as "tail" so I figured they weren't necessary?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Do you have the tip-over switch installed?
Yea, it came on the harness that I got with the motor. But would that allow for the motor to turn over and not the fuel pump to get power?
 

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Without a tip over switch, the motor will turn over, and the fuel pump will cycle once when the ignition switch is closed, then shut off. If you don't hear any pump cycling, it's probably not it, but you might want to make sure the sensor is oriented upward.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Without a tip over switch, the motor will turn over, and the fuel pump will cycle once when the ignition switch is closed, then shut off. If you don't hear any pump cycling, it's probably not it, but you might want to make sure the sensor is oriented upward.
Yea, I don't hear any pump cycling. I did make sure to have the tip over switch pointing upwards every time I try to make some headway.

Is there any other "proofs" in the coding/wiring necessary to get voltage to the pump besides the key?
 

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I used a resistor on that ignition wire and worked enough to let it remote start. I think it was around a 100ohm. Or you can use some kind of voltage regulator. This wasn't possible on the bike due to space, but would probably work better than resistors if you have room.

I definitely remember the ignition wires being brown and white. I don't remember which one needed 9 volts. I wanna say it was the white wire, but not 100% sure
 

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don't know about the 10 but some bikes have a fuel pump relay-did one come with the harness ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I used a resistor on that ignition wire and worked enough to let it remote start. I think it was around a 100ohm. Or you can use some kind of voltage regulator. This wasn't possible on the bike due to space, but would probably work better than resistors if you have room.

I definitely remember the ignition wires being brown and white. I don't remember which one needed 9 volts. I wanna say it was the white wire, but not 100% sure
See, I just jumped those two wires together with a wire I had lying around. Does the ecu not allow full voltage to the pump? Does the key/lock have a resister in it to only allow a lower voltage or something?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
don't know about the 10 but some bikes have a fuel pump relay-did one come with the harness ?
From what I have gathered (could be wrong), but there is no "relay" per say like the starter relay as it is built into the junction box I think it is? Don't quote me on that though, I would have to go back and check in the manual.
 

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First, figure out why the OIL light is on. If you get it started with no oil pressure, you may wish you were back where you are now.

Then, to bypass the problem temporarily, you could wire 12v to the fuel pump directly to see if the bike will start. If so, then you are missing something relating to the fuel pump since it will turn over. If it still doesn't start, then you are missing something major (ECM signal, coil signal, etc).

Also, this allows you to hear the bike run if it does start. There is a diagnostic connector in the harness that will allow you to pull codes and find out why the FI light is on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
pan4905 was correct. I did some research and talked to a friend who had a friend who works on bikes for a living. He said I had to have a resistor or the ecu would think the bike is trying to get stolen...

The way to do it is I jumped the brown and white wire together. And then put a 100 ohm 1/2 watt 5% resistor jumped from the gray (I guess the theft wire) to the brown and white wire connection...fuel pump primed, had spark, and motor started up!!!

now I just need to figure out why my oil pressure light is on.

Figured you all would be interested in what was the problem, and thank all of you for your advice!
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
How 'bout a clutch switch and on the other side kill switch? Oil light will dissapear when it starts turning over...
what do you mean by clutch switch and on other side kill switch?

Are you saying the oil light will be gone once it runs for a little bit? I ran it for like 7 seconds (just ran off the little gas i put in it), and I'm pretty sure the light didn't go off...but not 100% sure as I was far too excited to hear the motor turn over after all these trials and tribulations...especially with just the header/hollowed out cat as the exhaust haha!
 
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