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Idk, I like woolich but tbh a whole lot of tuners use ftecu. Both have thier pluses but to me woolich seemed to have more than ftecu
 

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Comparing features and pricing, Woolich is much more expensive considering you need the race tools package to use the blip feature. I'll probably go with FTECU.
 

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Comparing features and pricing, Woolich is much more expensive considering you need the race tools package to use the blip feature. I'll probably go with FTECU.
What are you talking about? Woolich has everything included for the price minus the wide band and log box, you don't need race tools unless you are dead set on using an aftermarket quick shift unit or are trying to use a pit speed limiter or the warm-up feature. Auto-blip/ quick shift down is available from the get go with woolich where as with ftecu you do have to pay more for the feature. 100 dollars just to enable something that is already there just disabled from the factory is retarded. Woolich with the full logbox and autotune wideband etc is cheaper period. It is more capable and the customer support is next level. ftecu is 749 for the wideband bundle with o2 sensor but you would still have to drop another 100 for the ability to add autoblip. Woolich is 772 but no need to buy shit else, it works with all the features, that expensive race tools package includes an aftermarket quickshift sensor and harness for warm up and pit speed limiter as well as extra license shit you dont need unless you are racing near pro level or just have money to burn. Really though, your bike your choice and if you go ftecu your loss. they both work but the customer support is lacking on ftecu vs woolich and you will end up paying more. do some more research or hey if you have made your mind up why bother asking just my thoughts
 

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What are you talking about? Woolich has everything included for the price minus the wide band and log box, you don't need race tools unless you are dead set on using an aftermarket quick shift unit or are trying to use a pit speed limiter or the warm-up feature. Auto-blip/ quick shift down is available from the get go with woolich where as with ftecu you do have to pay more for the feature. 100 dollars just to enable something that is already there just disabled from the factory is retarded. Woolich with the full logbox and autotune wideband etc is cheaper period. It is more capable and the customer support is next level. ftecu is 749 for the wideband bundle with o2 sensor but you would still have to drop another 100 for the ability to add autoblip. Woolich is 772 but no need to buy shit else, it works with all the features, that expensive race tools package includes an aftermarket quickshift sensor and harness for warm up and pit speed limiter as well as extra license shit you dont need unless you are racing near pro level or just have money to burn. Really though, your bike your choice and if you go ftecu your loss. they both work but the customer support is lacking on ftecu vs woolich and you will end up paying more. do some more research or hey if you have made your mind up why bother asking just my thoughts
The site was confusing as it stated it requires and doesn't require the race tools to enable.

18 zx10r woolich
 

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yeah i went through the same issue as you and was hella confused, the deal is, unless you have a friend who owns a dyno and only uses ftecu, your best bet is woolich, the support is next level and there are maps to use, plus if you drop the 800 in the first place you really dont need to hit an dyno except for pissing contest shit, mine bigger than yours, you can tune the afr to a pretty damn level line and maximize the bike to you and your riding style. you can smooth it out or make it more brutal, save fuel or breath fumes full time, fuck with timing and ignition dwell, autoblip and even change to race dash display, disable all the fi errors and ditch the cat and emissions bullshit, the only thing you are just not able to do for that price is set quick shift kill times, for that you really should rock the aftermarket sensor and get race tools but then at that point i dont think price is as much of a consideration. I burned mad cash on my current zx10 and i still didnt get race tools, no need
 

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The site was confusing as it stated it requires and doesn't require the race tools to enable.

18 zx10r woolich
so take it from me on this one, not that you have a reason to besides i will respond to messages about issues, i will along with others on this site will happily help you to figure out anything and work with you to get your bike to the spot you want it, if you go ftecu im sure you will find some of the same minus the manufacturer customer support side of it and i dont think i saw any ftecu guys chime in yet so there is that
 

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so take it from me on this one, not that you have a reason to besides i will respond to messages about issues, i will along with others on this site will happily help you to figure out anything and work with you to get your bike to the spot you want it, if you go ftecu im sure you will find some of the same minus the manufacturer customer support side of it and i dont think i saw any ftecu guys chime in yet so there is that
If you go with Ftecu then you can get a Graves map and you are set. No one has more experience is the USA than Graves with the zx10. They have won 2 Moto America stock 1000 championships in a row and all the front runners use their pipes and maps. Graves uses Ftecu exclusively.

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If you go with Ftecu then you can get a Graves map and you are set. No one has more experience is the USA than Graves with the zx10. They have won 2 Moto America stock 1000 championships in a row and all the front runners use their pipes and maps. Graves uses Ftecu exclusively.

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Which is great if you want to run a map that is generic to a graves setup, if you have a full graves system etc and if you believe every bike outputs the same power at the same place regardless of that being false. Guess you can do auto tune with ftuecu too though but hey . Graves lol
 

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I'm pretty sure I stated just the facts. Yup I did. No hating involved. I personally don't have anything graves on my bike so not much use for me to go ftecu. I guess if I had a full graves system and wanted a generic flash ya know lol
 

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Here's another fact: Graves locks their tunes through FTECU, so that you can't alter them. I had my buddies new R1 on my dyno with the full graves/FTECU set-up (and absolute MONSTER on power, btw). Problem was the bike had a pretty significant lean-cruise surge, and the on/off throttle transitions were tuned badly enough to be borderline dangerous. After having to go through the nutroll of using their software, have their account, have a full active internet connection the entire tune session, and then the absolutely ridiculous amount of time to alter flashes (read/write), I couldn't make OR EVEN SEE any trim changes for the bike on their tune. Given the read/write time through that system, I now know why guys like Brock use a powercommander to get the trims right and then port the data over. To get the bike right I would have had to flash a stock tune in and start from scratch with EVERYTHING (hidden data, remember?)... that turns a 1 hour spot tune into a 4-6 hour adventure that is honestly half read/write time. Canned maps from them are fucking useless if they are off in any way. Quite frankly, I'd never recommend it to anyone after having to use it that day.

I can't tell you if they're all like that, but that one experience was enough.
 

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Since Im a tuner a perspective of a customer is dificult to see. but I can tell you this, from both, I use mostly Woolich, but you have to analize 3 things, how far you want to go (auto tune, data login, etc), bike specific (some bikes one is better than the other), money you want to spend....

in the case of zx10r, I would prefer the woolich, also their customer service is top.

I have email those guys with very complicated things (cbr10000 17+) and they have answer me back fast.
 

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Here's another fact: Graves locks their tunes through FTECU, so that you can't alter them. I had my buddies new R1 on my dyno with the full graves/FTECU set-up (and absolute MONSTER on power, btw). Problem was the bike had a pretty significant lean-cruise surge, and the on/off throttle transitions were tuned badly enough to be borderline dangerous. After having to go through the nutroll of using their software, have their account, have a full active internet connection the entire tune session, and then the absolutely ridiculous amount of time to alter flashes (read/write), I couldn't make OR EVEN SEE any trim changes for the bike on their tune. Given the read/write time through that system, I now know why guys like Brock use a powercommander to get the trims right and then port the data over. To get the bike right I would have had to flash a stock tune in and start from scratch with EVERYTHING (hidden data, remember?)... that turns a 1 hour spot tune into a 4-6 hour adventure that is honestly half read/write time. Canned maps from them are fucking useless if they are off in any way. Quite frankly, I'd never recommend it to anyone after having to use it that day.

I can't tell you if they're all like that, but that one experience was enough.
I'm with you on that. My plan is to flash with Dano's to remove restrictions and take care of the fueling with the Rapid Bike module.
 

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with the money of the rapid bike, you could buy the autotune from woolich...

Canned maps in my experience for R1, panigales and CBR are shit, but kawas canned maps are close to 85%, first I flash a zx10r, with my canned map, then we arrange the dyno, and go from there and believe me, its very close from one bike to another.....in gen4 and gen5... my base map is a autotune map I made...
 

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I'm with you on that. My plan is to flash with Dano's to remove restrictions and take care of the fueling with the Rapid Bike module.
Rapid Bike is ok for nearly stock builds, its limited by the way it reads AFR if your full system filter and flash the truth is Rapid Bike cant keep up with it.
 

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Here's another fact: Graves locks their tunes through FTECU, so that you can't alter them. I had my buddies new R1 on my dyno with the full graves/FTECU set-up (and absolute MONSTER on power, btw). Problem was the bike had a pretty significant lean-cruise surge, and the on/off throttle transitions were tuned badly enough to be borderline dangerous. After having to go through the nutroll of using their software, have their account, have a full active internet connection the entire tune session, and then the absolutely ridiculous amount of time to alter flashes (read/write), I couldn't make OR EVEN SEE any trim changes for the bike on their tune. Given the read/write time through that system, I now know why guys like Brock use a powercommander to get the trims right and then port the data over. To get the bike right I would have had to flash a stock tune in and start from scratch with EVERYTHING (hidden data, remember?)... that turns a 1 hour spot tune into a 4-6 hour adventure that is honestly half read/write time. Canned maps from them are fucking useless if they are off in any way. Quite frankly, I'd never recommend it to anyone after having to use it that day.

I can't tell you if they're all like that, but that one experience was enough.
Big difference there. 4-6 hours & half is read write/time?

My Woolich takes 1 minute 47 seconds give or take 5 seconds on my old laptop to read/write changes.

+1 on Customer support. Always quick & very helpful.
 

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FTECU states that it has active tuning while the bike is running and does not need to be constantly reflashed to reflect the changes, if I understand correctly. Is it the same for woolich?
 
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