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Discussion Starter #1
I am going to be removing my front wheel soon to get the new tire mounted up. I have searched a bit and here is what I came up with:

1. Put bike on rear stand and place my floor jack under the jack point on the header. This will get wheels off the ground. I did this before to raise the fork tubes a bit. Worked fine.

2. Remove the brake calipers so the wheel can fit through and be removed. (is this really needed or can I just remove one side???)

3. Loosen the pinch bolts on the left side first and unscrew the allen nut using the 14MM alllen key in the tool kit being careful since it is soft aluminum.

4. Loosen pinch bolts on the right side to remove the axle. At this point the wheel should be able to be removed.

Any issues with the above? Anyone have the torque specs handy for the pinch bolts, caliper bolts, and axle nut? This will be first time removing the front and the above is the best I could come up with from my searches. Any advice is appreciated.....thank ya.
 

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the procedure sounds right.


Tq specs
axle pinch bolts 14.5ft-lb
axle nut 81ft-lb
caliper bolts 25ft-lb

BD
 

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zeta xray said:
Yup, remove both calipers. You got it perfect.

:+1:
 

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Caliper mounting bolts ..................25 ft/lbs
Front axle clamp bolts...................14.5 ft/lbs torque them a couple of times
Front axle nut..............................81 ft/lbs

I don't torque the front axle more than finger tight because it tends to squeeze the fork legs together and causes more stiction.
 

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swjohnsey said:
Caliper mounting bolts ..................25 ft/lbs
Front axle clamp bolts...................14.5 ft/lbs torque them a couple of times
Front axle nut..............................81 ft/lbs

I don't torque the front axle more than finger tight because it tends to squeeze the fork legs together and causes more stiction.
incase you didn't read the other posts everything is already listed. :eyecrazy:

If your forks are squeezing that much theres a problem needing attention. Both of my spacers make contact with the inner fork bottoms when installing the front wheel so theres 20thou (guess) at best they squeeze/compress when torqued down.

BD
 

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Sorry I offended you by reposting some information. If you don't think it will improve the performance of your forks don't do it.
 

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swjohnsey said:
Sorry I offended you by reposting some information. If you don't think it will improve the performance of your forks don't do it.
no offense taken it just wasn't necessary, and no finger tight will not cut it.

BD
 

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I tighten the axle nut as recommended, however, I do not tighten the pinch bolts until I have pumped the forks up and down a few times to make sure there is no side loading due to the axle being off center or some other issue. Then I tighten the pinch bolts. I would think that leaving the axle nut finger tight could allow the forks to twist more easily. Resulting in a less stabile front end.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Cool, thanks for the additional tips. This one might be good to the how to section since someone will eventually have the same questions.

This site is awesome and a great asset to us 10R owners!
 

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I just swapped out my tires yesturday and learned a good trick. You don't have to remove the calipers. Just take the two allen head bolts out of the front fender on one side. This will allow you to turn one of the forks so that the caliper swings out of the way and the wheel can be removed. Much faster and easier than removing the calipers.
 

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grover said:
I just swapped out my tires yesturday and learned a good trick. You don't have to remove the calipers. Just take the two allen head bolts out of the front fender on one side. This will allow you to turn one of the forks so that the caliper swings out of the way and the wheel can be removed. Much faster and easier than removing the calipers.
I'll have to try that on the next tire change which will be coming up soon.
 

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i'll remove the calipers so as not to damage my highly touted BLOO wheels thank you very much. :badteeth:

BD
 
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